Stiff steering - any suggestions
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,046
Likes: 675
From: FL
Stiff steering - any suggestions
Just got the car back on the road. All new ball joints, tie rod ends, rebuilt steering box and new idler arm. Steering is now very stiff and the steering wheel will not center when released. It will get to about 30 degrees from center then stiffen up. Camber is set to 2-3/4 degrees positive with standard control arm shafts.
I think it is the new idler arm which is very stiff. It seemed to be prelubed from Vette Brakes but I may give it some more grease.
Anybody have any ideas or do I just have to wait for things to loosen up a bit?
I think it is the new idler arm which is very stiff. It seemed to be prelubed from Vette Brakes but I may give it some more grease.
Anybody have any ideas or do I just have to wait for things to loosen up a bit?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,046
Likes: 675
From: FL
Gary (gtr1999). I trust his work 100%.
Everything felt good till I got the linkage hooked to the idler arm and control valve to pitman arm and then I could feel the stiffness. New ball joints may be a little stiffer as well but I could move the spindles pretty easily till I hooked up the tie rods.
Everything felt good till I got the linkage hooked to the idler arm and control valve to pitman arm and then I could feel the stiffness. New ball joints may be a little stiffer as well but I could move the spindles pretty easily till I hooked up the tie rods.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 10
From: Austin TX
For starters, it sounds like the lash on the steering box is way too tight. Loosen it a couple of turns,..you'll need a 5/8" wrench and a flat-head screw-driver,..then tighten it a 1/4 turn until it feels right, lock-to-lock. The book says to use a torque wrench at the steering wheel, but I think you can get close by feel.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,046
Likes: 675
From: FL
For starters, it sounds like the lash on the steering box is way too tight. Loosen it a couple of turns,..you'll need a 5/8" wrench and a flat-head screw-driver,..then tighten it a 1/4 turn until it feels right, lock-to-lock. The book says to use a torque wrench at the steering wheel, but I think you can get close by feel.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 2
From: Oak Ridge NC
Nope, the steering box is perfect. It was just rebuilt by Gary Ramadei (gtr1999). Without the steering linkage hooked up, the steering wheel is very smooth and easy to turn. My new tie rod ends are tight and my new idler arm is very tight. I had to put use some vice grips to get enough leverage to move the idler arm to hook it up. I am just wondering if I can expect it to loosen up or if I need a new one from VB&P.
I put VBP idler arm on my front end rebuild. I was tight, but didn't require vise grips to turn. I would grease it.
I did a full replacement of ball joints, tie rods and idler arm..greased up the whole mess and then set the alignment. It is tighter all the way around, but still returns to center.
Here are the alignment specs from Chilton for '75. Are you using specs from another source?
Camber 1/4 to 1 1/4 pos with 3/4 preferred
Caster 1/2-1 1/2 pos with 1 preferred (caster with PS 1 3/4 to 2 3/4 pos)
Last edited by SmokinBBC; May 22, 2007 at 09:23 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,046
Likes: 675
From: FL
Don't mess with the box if Gary set it up.
I put VBP idler arm on my front end rebuild. I was tight, but didn't require vise grips to turn. I would grease it.
I did a full replacement of ball joints, tie rods and idler arm..greased up the whole mess and then set the alignment. It is tighter all the way around, but still returns to center.
Here are the alignment specs from Chilton for '75. Are you using specs from another source?
Camber 1/4 to 1 1/4 pos with 3/4 preferred
Caster 1/2-1 1/2 pos with 1 preferred (caster with PS 1 3/4 to 2 3/4 pos)
I put VBP idler arm on my front end rebuild. I was tight, but didn't require vise grips to turn. I would grease it.
I did a full replacement of ball joints, tie rods and idler arm..greased up the whole mess and then set the alignment. It is tighter all the way around, but still returns to center.
Here are the alignment specs from Chilton for '75. Are you using specs from another source?
Camber 1/4 to 1 1/4 pos with 3/4 preferred
Caster 1/2-1 1/2 pos with 1 preferred (caster with PS 1 3/4 to 2 3/4 pos)
