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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 04:00 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BB72
The back side of each piece is ribbed so it won't slip. .

I know, i said the ribbing is not enough. Why not just cast ribs into the nut itself.

My point is that the system is only as good as it's weakest link.
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 01:24 AM
  #22  
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I've seen nuts that have ribbing machined into them. the washer-faced nuts that you get with windage-tray stud sets, like from ARP. yes they do work, but when you ever have to untighten them, they do some slight gouging of the surface, but that's not a problem because then the nut covers that when reinstalled. They are indeed effective.

for those applications where you absolutely, positively can't have it come loose, I use either a castellated nut with a cotter pin, or safety wire through a drilled 1/16" hole, or for lower-stress applications a nyloc nut.

not sure if I could afford to stock Nord-Locks in the kinds of quantities I like to keep handy so that when you need one, it's right there. Maybe they got a variety combo pack for 1/4" through 1/2".
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 11:11 AM
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OK. I just bought a number of these washers in different sizes to re-assemble my rear suspension. When I dis-assembled the rear suspension some of the nuts (not too many) were completely loose or had loosened up some. I did the rear suspension work the last time (15 yrs. ago) and it is my practice to properly torque things etc. so I know the bolts were on right initially.

Bottom line, it cost me $80 for the washers (not cheap) but I am hoping it makes for a safer situation. I figure, in the scheme of things, $80 isn't cheap but compared to the $1000's I have spent so far, it isn't that much.

I'll re-post with my experience if anyone is interested.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 02:36 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by BB72
I can tell you that I've seen many many occasions where a bolt has come loose with a split lockwasher strickly due to a little vibration. The analogy of cannon and Nord-lock is not quite accurate. They're not that expensive. It's also about safety and that is worth the cost.
Define a "little" vibration. I can't remember ever seeing a properly torqued bolt with a split lock washer coming loose.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 04:01 PM
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I'm Batman, it has happened to me. Not very often though (but a few of my rear suspension bolts were loose). It seems that the Nord-Lock washers have been subjected to rigorous vibration testing. I say "seems" because most of the literature seems to be coming from Nord-Lock. Nonetheless, the concept seems appealing and it appears to have gained use in the railway industry.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BB68Vett
I'm Batman, it has happened to me. Not very often though (but a few of my rear suspension bolts were loose). It seems that the Nord-Lock washers have been subjected to rigorous vibration testing. I say "seems" because most of the literature seems to be coming from Nord-Lock. Nonetheless, the concept seems appealing and it appears to have gained use in the railway industry.
It's certainly an interesting idea. I'm just wondering about how necessary it is in our applications. Usually, I spend more time trying to undo stuck fasteners than worrying about fasteners working loose.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 05:07 PM
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Good point and I won't really know if they are any better than split washers until 20 years from now when my sons dis-assemble the rear suspension.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 06:04 PM
  #28  
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Who put on the seminar? Was it from a salesman?

I think it is overkill for our cars.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 08:32 PM
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I'm not aware of a seminar. The information I saw was on the internet. I have an engineer friend that works at MARTA (Metro Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority) and he said that the rail division uses these washers and he has heard that they work. Vibration in the rail cars and on the tracks is a major issue.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
It's certainly an interesting idea. I'm just wondering about how necessary it is in our applications. Usually, I spend more time trying to undo stuck fasteners than worrying about fasteners working loose.
It sounds like your undoing fasteners that have a little added help of rust and dirt to keep them on. Split lockwashers are flat when torqued as opposed to ribbed like a nordloc, the bolts will slip on a flat surface given enough vibration. The engineers at our plant went to a seminar, I don't know if it was actually a Nordloc seminar but the general consensus is to remove all the split lockwashers out of the plant and replace with Nordloc. Overkill ....maybe...insurance? Yes. A machine breaks you just repair it, your suspension falls apart, it's your health and cash involved.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 11:20 AM
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I took some shots of the front suspension area of my late model P/U, I didn't see any lock-washers used under there, maybe there is something to this. All the bolt's used were of the same flange design, not a lock-washer in sight. They were a single piece design, not two piece like the Nordlocs.

The close-up of the bolt is not from the same vehicle as in the first two pics, it's a 2002 model. It's one that held one of those tie down rings used by manufacturers to secure cars in shipping, I removed the rear rings some time ago to fit a trailer hitch.
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Last edited by shafrs3; Jun 27, 2007 at 02:58 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 11:26 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by BB72
It sounds like your undoing fasteners that have a little added help of rust and dirt to keep them on. Split lockwashers are flat when torqued as opposed to ribbed like a nordloc, the bolts will slip on a flat surface given enough vibration. The engineers at our plant went to a seminar, I don't know if it was actually a Nordloc seminar but the general consensus is to remove all the split lockwashers out of the plant and replace with Nordloc. Overkill ....maybe...insurance? Yes. A machine breaks you just repair it, your suspension falls apart, it's your health and cash involved.
Understandable...but the original splitlocks held the suspension together for 30 years without a problem.

I have a strange habit of combining nylock (or Type C all-metal) nuts with splitlocks and locktite, anyway...
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 12:10 PM
  #33  
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The ones that really seem to work for me are those nuts with a rectangular impression on the side. They start easily, but then require a wrench to get them on all the way. They are kind of "self-locking."

I also like the flanged flattened hex headed bolts.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 12:55 PM
  #34  
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As we rebuild our cars, clean bolts, fresh painted parts and pieces our bolts might as well have the best out there. The bolts shoulders in the previous pics aren't ribbed at all and see...no lock washers. Strickly torque and bolt stretch holding them. With Nordloc the bolt will have to stretch significantly or break to overcome the bevels in the washer.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 01:34 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Define a "little" vibration. I can't remember ever seeing a properly torqued bolt with a split lock washer coming loose.
I've been wrenching for a long time, both mechanical and collision. I never see original hardware come loose. I do make it a habit to use new lock-washers anytime I pull an old assembly apart. Quality lock-washers will have edges that will dig into the nut and the opposing surface.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 03:05 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by BB72
Strickly torque and bolt stretch holding them. With Nordloc the bolt will have to stretch significantly or break to overcome the bevels in the washer.
And friction from the added surface contact. Loosen one of these fasteners and you feel that initial pop as it breaks loose.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 03:14 PM
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Am I the only one who bothers to perform a routine "nut & bolt", or does everyone else just assume everything's fine until it falls apart?
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 04:04 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
Am I the only one who bothers to perform a routine "nut & bolt", or does everyone else just assume everything's fine until it falls apart?
I look them over when I'm greasing joints and the like. If something were to appear loose, I'd find it and tighten it.

The only time I've seen loose fasteners in any of my family's vehicles were after stops at so-called "professional" service shops.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 06:30 PM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
...The only time I've seen loose fasteners in any of my family's vehicles were after stops at so-called "professional" service shops.

Amen. Had a caliper nearly come completely off of my STS after pads were replaced by a "pro" service shop. Some bargain... Lucky I just happened to be pulling into a parking at the time.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks

Amen. Had a caliper nearly come completely off of my STS after pads were replaced by a "pro" service shop. Some bargain... Lucky I just happened to be pulling into a parking at the time.
My favorite personal experience was the screwed-up way a shop installed the front calipers on my old Talon. There were two different slide bolts for each side, each bolt had a big letter on the head with a matching letter cast into the caliper. Of course, they reversed them on both sides...
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