First admission: I don't have any experience with starters. My '73 with original engine and starter, I began to have difficulty starting a couple of months ago. Sometimes the engine would instantly catch and other times the cranking rpm would seem slow and it would eventually catch. I figured the starter brushes were worn and perhaps there was some terminal corrosion. I decided to replace the starter. With the rebuilt starter, the cranking rpm was very good and the engine fired up just fine. However, I noticed a significant and unfamiliar mechanical noise. I wonder if the noise was from the starter motor being still engaged after the engine started. I turned off the ignition switch and the engine kept running (???). Other than the battery wire, all wires attached to the solenoid are red with different gauges. The smallest gauge wire that comes from the positive side of the coil is connected to the (R) or run side. The medium gauge wire I assume goes on the (S) or start. I assume the largest comes from the alternator and is combined on the large terminal with the positive battery cable. Do you think that the starter might be defective or should I begin looking at the ignition switch?
Thanks

 

Yellow wire goes to the 'R' terminal on the solenoid. (goes to the coil)
Purple wire goes to the 'S' terminal.
Red wire (12 gage) goes on the 'B' terminal with the red batt lead.
Black wire goes to one of the starter mounting bolts.

 

Not to butt in, just putting this here because it fits part of the same subject addressed.

I got into my car after driving it around all day doing errands. From 6 in the morning until 6 in the evening. Had no problems all day. I got in turned the key over and nothing happened. the lights work, the gauges come on, the door buzzer buzzes.

I have replaced the battery, brand new, two days ago. I replaced the starter today with a rebuilt one from Napa. I cleaned all the connections on the starter.

The starter won't turn over. I took a volt meter to it. The wire coming from the battery is hot. But that is the only one that is hot. The ignition is in the off position during that. I tested it during the run position and I got the same results, I think, I am not a hundred percent positive on the run positions settings.

On the old starter I crossed over the bolts with two screwdrivers (insulated of course) it would spin over but the starter wouldn't engage.

I really don't want to do the same thing to a brand new starter.

My question is, is this problem a sign of a bad ignition switch or wiring?

Next question, sorta bubba, but bear with me, I need to at least move the car closer to the barracks. Could I run a wire crossing over the bolts on the solenoid with two separate wires, put a toggle switch in it, run it to the car on the inside. Turn the key over to the run position, then flip the switch. simulate turning the key over to the start position. Would this work? Or would if screw up a brand new starter? Basically it would have the same effect as the two screw drivers, the wiring circuit would just be completed from inside the car instead.

It is the only I could think of for a quick fix, until I can start testing the ignition wiring and switch closer. Thanks in advance.

 

All but one of mine are black. Which is red but it isn't the big thick wire as described as the hot positive battery lead. None of the four wires go to a mounting bolt there is a flat braided un-enclosed piece of cable that is used as a ground that hooks up to the frame and to one of the mounting bolts. So all total I have five wires hooking up to the starter.

I need some help with this. I really can't afford to have it towed to the shop again nor do I have the time. I have a 95% chance I could be out of the country in less than 2 weeks.

Again thanks in advance for any help you guys have.

 

Blackfoot at the back of the passenger head is a 4 wire connector-2 red wires,1 purple and 1 black.Make sure it is plugged together tight.

 

Oops Blackfoot I wasnt thinking yours was a 74 -I dont think you have that connector.Give me a few min. and Ill get a diagram out.

 

Blackfoot -All blackwires is not correct.Can you follow those black wires up and maybe find where they have been spliced.Hopefully we can get to some colored wires.If not this could be a little tough and then you will have to each wire to its source.

 

I should be able to follow them back up, i have about a good foot of wire that has electrical tape wrapped around to encase it. And the one wire that is colored, is spiced up close to the starter that is the only reason I know its color.

I am going to take a closer look at it tomorrow. And try to rig up that wiring like I was talking about if I can't find the problem. I really don't want to rig it, but if I don't find the problem, I won't have much of a choice.

Thanks for your help.

When I turn the key over, when I am physically trying to start it. I am going to get a helper for this, and I am going to see which wires are hot and which aren't. Which wires should be hot and about what range of volts should it be at?

Could it be something in the ignition switch itself not working right. I think this could be a culprit because my door buzzer goes off all the time the door is open, no matter if the key is in the ignition or not, or if it is running or not.

 

Here is a drawing that may help. You really do need to I.D. the wires but with this at least you will know where they should be going.

 

Different years different wire colors I guess. I think the purple and yellow come from more modern equipment. The '73 originals I have are red wires covered by white fiberglass sheath. By continuity testing, I confirmed that the wires are connected to the correct terminals on the starter. Any opinions as to why the starter does not disingage when the ignition switch is moved from "start" to "run." Likewise, the engine keeps running after the ignition switch is moved from "run" to "off." These are new problems with this particular starter. I am wondering if this could be the result of the internal wiring in the starter being switched or intended for a different vehicle. It seems as if R (or run terminal) is getting power from the battery because the coil remains energized after the ignition switch is turned off. The S (or start terminal) seems to be getting power from somewhere because it stays engaged after the ignition switch is moved from start to run. As a related question, can the starter motor and solenoid be bench tested to verify performance and wiring? Thanks.

 

Yes it can be bench tested.---Now remember the R term. gets a momentary feed when the S term is fed.When the S term feed is terminated the R term feed to the coil is also terminated.So if and this is what I think is going on the solenoid stays engaged the R term will be hot.The solenoid could be staying engaged because it is sticking or because the feed to the S terminal is not being turned off.Lets find a term.to interupt the S or purple wire feed-Do you have an auto or 4 speed?

 

Hmmm I was hoping you were still logged on.If you have an auto you can interupt the purple by going into reverse or drive.If this disengages the starter then its probably the ign. switch.If you have a 4 speed and your clutch saftey switch works while in neutral let the clutch out-if this disengages the starter then again its probably the ign switch.

 

Thanks for your comments DWncchs. I have a 4-speed. I have not had ignition switch problems before so I'm a bit surprised. However, my luck always seems to be to fix one thing and break another. Actually it isn't that bad. I'll connect the R and S leads via jumpers that have indicator lights to track the momentary on versus full-time on. I am really mystified by the engine not shutting off when the key is "off" or even "removed" The clutch switch is required to get started but after that no effect. I may also bypass the ignition entirely to see if I can get the starter to operate correctly and isolate the problem as the ignition switch. I was eventually going to pull the steering gear to have it rebuilt along with the power assist. I already rebuilt the column so I can do that again for the switch I suppose. Before I tackle that, I'll check continuity of the starter itself in the vehicle and do the bypass test. The cost of this rebuilt Delco unit was only $55 from the local parts store as compared with >$100 from the Corvette houses. Perhaps I got one rebuilt on a Monday. I'll send you a PM on my progress.