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When I was stripping my intake to clean it up, one of the thermostat housing bolts broke off right at the bolt head. I have abour 3/8" of bolt sticking out of the intake. So, I soaked it several days in PB Blaster, squirted it a couple times a day. Today I started trying to get it out, no luck so far. I have tried heating up the intake around the bolt several times, and squirt it some more with PB each time, hoping it would soak in to the threads when it cools. I heated the bolt several times, same deal. This thing will not come loose.
If you can get a sturdy pair of vise-grip locking pliers on it, try tightening the broken bolt.
Other options include;
getting the manifold hot with a torch, MAP gas is prefered, and then push an old candle to melt wax into the threads. And then try tightening the bolt.
If you have a home MIG welder, weld a new nut to the bolt and then try tighening the bolt.
If you can get a sturdy pair of vise-grip locking pliers on it, try tightening the broken bolt.
Other options include;
getting the manifold hot with a torch, MAP gas is prefered, and then push an old candle to melt wax into the threads. And then try tightening the bolt.
If you have a home MIG welder, weld a new nut to the bolt and then try tighening the bolt.
More heat. I would also center punch and keep tapping after heating.Not so hard you mushroom.
Heat the surrounding area of the broken bolt with a small torch and grab it with vice grips. {You have to keep the bolt from stripping the threads out}. The aluminum will heat up faster than the bolt and should be easily removed. We just removed 4 frozen bolts holding the 4 speed to an aluminum bell-housing the same way yesterday. Next time use "anti seize" where steel bolts is threaded into aluminum.
Sixfooter,
I JUST came in from out in my shed. I was taking 4 broken bolts out of my exhaust manifolds. If you do not have any luck with the replys email me at rcooper1hvc.rr.com and I will tell you another way to get the bolts out. I too tried heat, WD-40 for 3 days, Sili-Kroil for 1 week and none of it worked.
The same thing happen to me about 10 years ago on my daily driver (1972 Datsun 240Z). I soaked it WD40 and pulled out my largest vise-grips latched on to it as tight I as I could, prayed and turned.... it worked, it came right out. Good luck and don't forget to use anti-seize on the new bolts.
And I'll bet that all of you have aluminum manifolds with steel bolts. The dissimilar metals set up a small electric current and corrode/weld the bolt in place. If you don't use an anti-sieze compound on the bolt threads, they're always a "bear" to get out.
P.S. You can also try rapping the top of the "stud" with a hammer. Not too hard, but hard enough to set up a vibration that could break the crud loose.
In my opinion the best way is to get a nut that will sit on top of the bolt but not go all the way over it. Then use a MIG to weld the inside of the closed to the top. Then heat the manifold evenly around the bolt. Put a wrench on the nut and slowly move it back and forth. It should work loose.
and just like every one else has said, anti seize!!!
......and just like every one else has said, anti seize!!!
i use Synthetic motor oil during assembly....... i got that from some C-5 guys that claim spark plugs come out a lot better using that (rather than anti-seize).
Synthetic motor oil on spark plug threads might help them go IN. The temps at the spark plugs (combustion chamber) are higher than even synthetic oils can handle...I'm sure any oil is burned off 5 minutes after the engine started. However, I have to admit that I haven't tried it. I have used the anti-sieze with good results.