When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
A cure might be as simple as changing the plug to 1 heat range cooler on the #2 cyl. and it costs only $2 to try!
a red hot electrode will cause preignition and wack a piston to death.
.
reminds me of a motor that wipes a cam lobe. then it wipes the same lobe again. How many times do u yell "cheap cam"?
Last edited by Matt Gruber; Jun 8, 2007 at 07:55 AM.
Looking at the ring gap from the pic on a cold engine you can tell it is very tight. you should have atleast .027 if not more. unless the ring is cracked elsewhere and is closing the gap in the pic. That gap is barely .015. go back and check all the bores for scratches and ring gaps
Engines back from the builder with all new forged Weisco pistons.Now the process of painting,dropping in the engine and installing all that (pita) shielding begins.Vrrrmmm
My piston looks just like yours. The same amount broke off on the top of the piston. My vette is like yours 69 350/350hp. At lease your block is not cracked like mine.
My piston looks just like yours. The same amount broke off on the top of the piston. My vette is like yours 69 350/350hp. At lease your block is not cracked like mine.
Oh man I'm sorry to hear your block is cracked that bad news for sure.Did you have hyper pistons in yours? Are you going to fix your block do the numbers match the car?
Yeh, It's a numbers matching car. Found out the piston is .030 over. Not sure what kind of piston is in there. The odometer says 75,000, but some past owner must have rebuilt it before. I don't think it would have come .030 over from the factory, would it? Right now i'm torn between the crate motor but like the stock clean look. Mechanics at work says that I can sleeve the cylinder. Not a big deal, but now finding out that it's bored once, I have to see what my options are. I really don't want to spend alot of money. I can buy a short block and put aside my no. matching motor and still use all my other parts to put back together. As soon as I hear a noise I was smoking out the rear. So after opening it up and seeing the cracked cyl. I new it cracked when I heard the noise. Mine was no. 4 cyl.
Walls are scored. Tony
Found out the piston is .030 over. Not sure what kind of piston is in there. The odometer says 75,000, but some past owner must have rebuilt it before. I don't think it would have come .030 over from the factory, would it? ...
Mechanics at work says that I can sleeve the cylinder. Not a big deal...
So after opening it up and seeing the cracked cyl. I new it cracked when I heard the noise. Mine was no. 4 cyl.
Walls are scored. Tony
Has just one cylinder been bored? Is this the one that cracked?
Yeh, It's a numbers matching car. Found out the piston is .030 over. Not sure what kind of piston is in there. The odometer says 75,000, but some past owner must have rebuilt it before. I don't think it would have come .030 over from the factory, would it? Right now i'm torn between the crate motor but like the stock clean look. Mechanics at work says that I can sleeve the cylinder. Not a big deal, but now finding out that it's bored once, I have to see what my options are. I really don't want to spend alot of money. I can buy a short block and put aside my no. matching motor and still use all my other parts to put back together. As soon as I hear a noise I was smoking out the rear. So after opening it up and seeing the cracked cyl. I new it cracked when I heard the noise. Mine was no. 4 cyl.
Walls are scored. Tony
Numbers are very important to some people.I had 2 cylinders sleeved in a 70 LT1 to save the numbers.I thought it was beyond repair when I saw holes in the oil pan and inside was a ton of metal including the cam and connecting rods. Worst I've seen on the street.Cost was about 3K to save it.Personally and if you want to have fun with the car I would opt for the crate motor.Of course save the old block.
I have seen many KB hyper pistons broken like the one in your pic come through my shop. As others have said here - every time it was insufficient top ring gap or detonation or both that caused it.
Personally I would cut back the compression ratio a bit. Depending on your camshaft, 10.5 SCR may be a bit steep for pump gas with iron heads. A high dollar set of Weisco's may live longer but your problem could still be there. And don't think you can't hurt an expensive piston just because it is forged. They will live longer under abuse but not forever.
Will
I've only have the passenger side head removed and all the piston reads .030. So I'm assuming their all .030 over. I thinking rather than rebuild the numbers motor, I'll set it asside and do one of two things: !) find another block and rebuild that or drop a crate motor or maybe buying a short or long block. Which is the cheapest route to take? I kind of don't want to rebuild the original motor and have something go wrong with it again.
Some members say that rebuilding a motor might excede the cost of a crate motor when everything is said and done.
What ever I put in, I want it to be alittle lopy and have some umph.
I have seen many KB hyper pistons broken like the one in your pic come through my shop. As others have said here - every time it was insufficient top ring gap or detonation or both that caused it.
Personally I would cut back the compression ratio a bit. Depending on your camshaft, 10.5 SCR may be a bit steep for pump gas with iron heads. A high dollar set of Weisco's may live longer but your problem could still be there. And don't think you can't hurt an expensive piston just because it is forged. They will live longer under abuse but not forever.
Will