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I know you all have heard and spoken on the headlites issues at least one million times, but, please give me an idea of where to start. I can open the headlites by hand, and they work electricly, meaning when I pull the switch the bulbs light up. But as soon as I start the car the headlites close. The lights are still on, but closed. They will not open when I pull the headlite switch. Are there springs that I could be missing that act against the vacuum? Or has anyone else had this same problem and know which of the vacuum pots or units to check? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Chuck
there is a small hose that comes to plastic spliter, each going to one of the headlites. I was unable to eaily pull the hose of the connector so I used a pair of plyers and pinched off the hose. No results.
Chuck
there is a small hose that comes to plastic spliter, each going to one of the headlites. I was unable to eaily pull the hose of the connector so I used a pair of plyers and pinched off the hose. No results.
Chuck
You have to release the vacumm.Vacumm on those ports keeps the headlights down --no vacumm tells them to go up.
Those ports are like the up - down switch
Have you tried the pulldown under the dash?It under the column.
I know where the switch is supposed to be, but can't find it. I think I best let someone younger crawl under that dash. OUCH!! And it's raining here in Oregon! (nothing new). Thanks for the help though. Just thought there might have been a simple check to start with. I've got lots of pictures and such.
Thanks,
Chuck
TS
Thanks for the links, I have been to alot of them and they are helpfull. I just thought I could bypass the complete check down with someone elses experiance. The way they (headlites) close just didn't leave any question of the vacuum system working. I thought there might be a reverse action valve or something that someone else might have dealt with. This is a great board and I appreciate all the help.
Thanks,
Chuck
TS
Thanks for the links, I have been to alot of them and they are helpfull. I just thought I could bypass the complete check down with someone elses experiance. The way they (headlites) close just didn't leave any question of the vacuum system working. I thought there might be a reverse action valve or something that someone else might have dealt with. This is a great board and I appreciate all the help.
Thanks,
Chuck
Chuck there are ways to bypass the complete checkdown-but you have to give more info.When I ask to remove the small hose from the relay or relays that would have given me a way to shorten the process for you.But you chose to pinch it off instead of removing it. Here is the deal if you remove the small hose (with engine running)and the headlights go up and you put it back on and the lights go down then we know your problem is with the vacumm to the small hose which is controled from inside the car.That little hose is the up and down switch for the lights- vacumm on or vacumm off.If it didnt change anything then we would have more things to ask you to do to isolate your problem.
[QUOTE=Dryoo7;1560551655]I had to cut the hose leading to the "T" fitting. With the car running, the drivers side lite opened fully, the pass. side opened half way.
Chuck[/QUOTE
OK now were getting somewhere.For some reason your headlight switch is not breaking the vacumm to the relay or the hose is pinched some where between the switch and the front of the car.Follow that little hose back towards the dash and see if it is not pinched.Then see if you can find the pulldown switch,its visable while sitting in the seat.Its just below the column at the edge of the lower dash.Pull it down with the engine running and seeif it will open the lights.
Was able to flind manual switch. Drivers side opened wide while pass. side opened half way, and then slowly closed. I opened it by hand, and it stayed open until I closed the manual switch, then both promply closed tight.
Chuck
Was able to flind manual switch. Drivers side opened wide while pass. side opened half way, and then slowly closed. I opened it by hand, and it stayed open until I closed the manual switch, then both promply closed tight.
Chuck
OK for some reason the vacumm valve in the headlight switch is not doing its job or the hoses are switched.I would guess the hose are switched.
On the pass side light coming up slow I would say the witchs hat seal is bad in the actuator.
Are you saying that the hoses at the light switch are installed backward? or on the headlilght (pass side)?
I think the hoses are reversed on the headlight switch-thats the first issue you had with the headlight switch not activating the relay so the lights would pop up.
The second issue is the slow pass. side headlight and on that one I believe you have a vacumm leak-There is a seal in the front of the actuator sorta looks like a witches hat.I believe it is bad.Sometimes it can be a leak in the opposite actuator but not usually.So to be sure find the hose that goes to the front side of the actuator and see if it holds vacumm -should be the green striped hose.To be on the safe side do both right and left actuators for a comparison.You should find that the pass. side actuator will not hold vacumm.
DWncchs:
You have been a great help to me and others I see as I brouse the boards, and I thank you for it. Wasn't sure if I should replace the Relay Valve AND the actuator together. Thanks for all the help.
Chuck
DWncchs:
You have been a great help to me and others I see as I brouse the boards, and I thank you for it. Wasn't sure if I should replace the Relay Valve AND the actuator together. Thanks for all the help.
Chuck
Your welcome.
If you find your actuator is leaking you should be able to replace the seal in this link for only 10 bucks.As far as the relay if it holds vacumm I would leave it. http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...3&dept_id=1476
OK! How do you get to the accuator front four bolts to replace the faulty one. Do I have to work from under the car? Lifting the hood does not give me access to that side of the accuator plate. Any ideas? I do know someone with a lift if I need it. Cannot put the car on a set of ramps as the front of the car is to low for the front tires to reach the ramps.
Chuck
I go through the front grill with a 20" long 3/8 extension with tape wrapped around so as not to nick the grill.The support rods will give you a little bit of trouble coming out and going in trying to get the studs to go through so be patient.With the hood down you get the actuator out and lay it at the bottom of the radiator.Then open the hood and have someone hold it and bring the actuator out through the opening.Be careful not to scratch the hood.