1973 distributor rebuild check
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,652
Likes: 80
From: Lakeland Florida
1973 distributor rebuild check
I am rebuilding my distributor and want some opinions on my understanding of what I am doing.
1st thing was the timing button on the bottom side of the main shaft was disentegrated. This was replaced with a plastic/nylon piece.
Next was the distributor end play. I measured it at 0.060 to start with.
After shimming = 0.006
The area around the upper bushing was cleaned out...
and repacked with an oil soaked gause pack.
Are the items that I changed correct so far?
kdf
1st thing was the timing button on the bottom side of the main shaft was disentegrated. This was replaced with a plastic/nylon piece.
Next was the distributor end play. I measured it at 0.060 to start with.
After shimming = 0.006
The area around the upper bushing was cleaned out...
and repacked with an oil soaked gause pack.
Are the items that I changed correct so far?
kdf
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 184
Likes: 1
From: Atlas is shrugging KC, MO area
The plastic bushing is what limits the mech. advance. So far, so good on what you've done. Be sure and check the radial or side play on the main shaft. The only lube the upper bushing gets is from that impregnated felt and usual develop excessive play. There should be very, very little play as too much play will cause problems at higher rpms. The good news is that the bushings can be replaced. Rebuilt housings are available.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
I am rebuilding my distributor and want some opinions on my understanding of what I am doing.
1st thing was the timing button on the bottom side of the main shaft was disentegrated. This was replaced with a plastic/nylon piece.
Next was the distributor end play. I measured it at 0.060 to start with.
After shimming = 0.006
The area around the upper bushing was cleaned out...
and repacked with an oil soaked gause pack.
Are the items that I changed correct so far?
kdf
1st thing was the timing button on the bottom side of the main shaft was disentegrated. This was replaced with a plastic/nylon piece.
Next was the distributor end play. I measured it at 0.060 to start with.
After shimming = 0.006
The area around the upper bushing was cleaned out...
and repacked with an oil soaked gause pack.
Are the items that I changed correct so far?
kdf
The upper bushings are almost never worn. The bottom one takes the abuse from driving the oil pump.
The dimple on the drive gear aligns with the rotor when installed.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Bovingdon Hertfordshire
Does anyone have a 'Mr Gasket' type one they could measure the diameter of and tell me which one to start with.
Please and thank you.
---------------
Also, I've got a lot of slop in the advance weights, the pivot holes are worn oval (and worse are no longer perpendicular to the surface) this causes them to **** over at an angle when they are flung wide.
I'm thinking of drilling out a slightly oversize round hole in the weight and turning down a phosphor bronze bush to press into the weight and then ream out the bush to fit the peg without too much slop.....
The only reason I'm going to all this trouble is that I've seen lots of advise over the years that says that the after market weights are not as good as the originals....
Thoughts ?
Jeremy.
Last edited by langlj00; Jun 8, 2007 at 07:44 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
I've turned up a load of brass stop bushings with different outside diameters
Does anyone have a 'Mr Gasket' type one they could measure the diameter of and tell me which one to start with.
.265"
Please and thank you.
---------------
Also, I've got a lot of slop in the advance weights, the pivot holes are worn oval (and worse are no longer perpendicular to the surface) this causes them to **** over at an angle when they are flung wide.
I'm thinking of drilling out a slightly oversize round hole in the weight and turning down a phosphor bronze bush to press into the weight and then ream out the bush to fit the peg without too much slop.....
The only reason I'm going to all this trouble is that I've seen lots of advise over the years that says that the after market weights are not as good as the originals....
Correct
Thoughts ?
Jeremy.
Does anyone have a 'Mr Gasket' type one they could measure the diameter of and tell me which one to start with.
.265"
Please and thank you.
---------------
Also, I've got a lot of slop in the advance weights, the pivot holes are worn oval (and worse are no longer perpendicular to the surface) this causes them to **** over at an angle when they are flung wide.
I'm thinking of drilling out a slightly oversize round hole in the weight and turning down a phosphor bronze bush to press into the weight and then ream out the bush to fit the peg without too much slop.....
The only reason I'm going to all this trouble is that I've seen lots of advise over the years that says that the after market weights are not as good as the originals....
Correct
Thoughts ?
Jeremy.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,652
Likes: 80
From: Lakeland Florida
Thanks for that tip. I did find a dist. rebuild paper on the forum, and have been using it as my guide. It also pointed out the dimple should align with the rotor, so I have already performed this. Its good to see that the advice given by members is pretty thorough and accurate.
kdf
kdf
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 184
Likes: 1
From: Atlas is shrugging KC, MO area
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Bovingdon Hertfordshire
B2B - Thanks for that.
I'm way below 0.265 and still not getting 36 Deg.
only about 33
(Yes the timing mark is in the right place - New balancer)
I've checked it with my own 36 Deg mark AND a wind back timing light - so the 33 is real.
I'm trying to get the 10 Deg at idle that my engine requires and the 36 full mechanical.....
Will have to wait until I've bushed the weights to see if that sorts it.
Jeremy.
I'm way below 0.265 and still not getting 36 Deg.
only about 33(Yes the timing mark is in the right place - New balancer)
I've checked it with my own 36 Deg mark AND a wind back timing light - so the 33 is real.
I'm trying to get the 10 Deg at idle that my engine requires and the 36 full mechanical.....
Will have to wait until I've bushed the weights to see if that sorts it.
Jeremy.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
B2B - Thanks for that.
I'm way below 0.265 and still not getting 36 Deg. only about 33
(Yes the timing mark is in the right place - New balancer)
I've checked it with my own 36 Deg mark AND a wind back timing light - so the 33 is real.
I'm trying to get the 10 Deg at idle that my engine requires and the 36 full mechanical.....
Will have to wait until I've bushed the weights to see if that sorts it.
Jeremy.
I'm way below 0.265 and still not getting 36 Deg.
only about 33(Yes the timing mark is in the right place - New balancer)
I've checked it with my own 36 Deg mark AND a wind back timing light - so the 33 is real.
I'm trying to get the 10 Deg at idle that my engine requires and the 36 full mechanical.....
Will have to wait until I've bushed the weights to see if that sorts it.
Jeremy.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,867
Likes: 195
From: Maryland
The only reason I'm going to all this trouble is that I've seen lots of advise over the years that says that the after market weights are not as good as the originals....
Thoughts ?
Jeremy.
Find a person with a Sun Distributor machine and a supply of original weights , springs , autocams and setup up ignition curve to pre emission spec. Use 28-32 oz heavy duty points ( Accel or BW A-112) quality cap and rotor and the proper VAC. Run vacuum line to a NON ported source. If you need a source for
the ignition setup I can give you a name.
Thoughts ?
Jeremy.
Find a person with a Sun Distributor machine and a supply of original weights , springs , autocams and setup up ignition curve to pre emission spec. Use 28-32 oz heavy duty points ( Accel or BW A-112) quality cap and rotor and the proper VAC. Run vacuum line to a NON ported source. If you need a source for
the ignition setup I can give you a name.
