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Problem with temp gauge

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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 01:37 PM
  #1  
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Default Problem with temp gauge

Thought I would give the forum a try. I have a 68 with a 350 engine. (origional engine is awol). I have done a frame off and now have a problem with the temp gauge reading anything past 100 degrees. (All other gauges work fine) I have om'ed out the wiring, checked power going to the gauge, insured the gauge ground is good, replaced the sending unit with a new one from a corvette source, replaced the temp gauge with a new one thinking the origional was bad and still no luck. I have checked to ensure the sender is grounded to the block through the treads and the block has several grounds. Grounding the wire connector will only move the gauge needle to about 3/4 of the way to hot. I am more used to the needle maxing out if this is done. I have even used jump wires and bypassed the wiring harness thinking I might have something going on there. Still will not read correctly. Now here is the weird part. If I remove the sending unit and ground it and then put my pencle torch on it (flame) the gauge will register temperature. Any thoughts??
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 02:24 PM
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ground the sensor wire at the gauge and check voltage at the gauge input to the gauge ground. Its there somewhere.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 03:01 PM
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Is the sensor in an aluminum intake or aluminum heads? I had the same problem when I had it in the alum intake. Wouldn't go past 100. Put the sensor in the iron head now works as advertised. The aluminum didn't ground it worth a damn.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 03:26 PM
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If your gauge doesnt go to full peg when grounding the sender wire then the problem is "at" the gauge not necessarily in the gauge.(taking into consideration you said you used a jumper to rule out a bad sender wire)When you used the jumper did you go back to the gauge for ground?Do you have the white ceramic resistor across the back of the gauge if not look there?
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 04:07 PM
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Maybe Im being too basic here but is the engine coolant getting over 100*? Id check with a infared gun and make sure the coolant doesnt have any bubbles in it. Possibly the thermostat is missing?
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 04:20 PM
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if you are using teflon tape to seal the threads or any form of rtv sealant other than the red/orange stuff you are probably not getting a good connection to ground
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:01 PM
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I have used tape, RTV, Plumbers putty, all kind of stuff and have never seen it interfere with grounding a sensor, the stuff filles in the voids in the threads between the two parts and the threads themselvs cut thru the sealant and gets a fine ground.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
If your gauge doesnt go to full peg when grounding the sender wire then the problem is "at" the gauge not necessarily in the gauge.(taking into consideration you said you used a jumper to rule out a bad sender wire)When you used the jumper did you go back to the gauge for ground?Do you have the white ceramic resistor across the back of the gauge if not look there?
Oops -dang screwed up again-thats twice in one day-the white ceramic is an insulator not a resistor.(the resistor in the ceramic is in later years)The resistor is seperate.I might have one in the garage I can take a pic of and measure the resistance if you need.

EDIT-I also agree with Sixfooter on the thread dope.I've tried it both ways and it doesnt seem to make a differance-but the book says not to use it.

Last edited by ...Roger...; Jun 10, 2007 at 05:49 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 07:04 PM
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Default still testing

I have checked the sender ground and it is good. The sender is in the drivers side cylinder head (iron) like the factory location. I have checked engine temp and it registers 189 or so at the thermostat. Both upper and lower rad (new) hoses have the temp drop that I want while sitting idleing in the garage, approximately 25 degrees. No issues with cooling. It is electrical. The new gauge does not use the resister as mentioned. I have 12.5 volts in the pink wire; power to gauge. The green wire; the one to the sender shows about 4-5 volts, the black shows a good ground when omed. It is odd that both the new and old gauge do exactly the same thing. I have been assured by the vender that the new sender is correct for the gauge and so on. Because everything has been appart, and I mean everything, I used a jumper direct from the sender to the gauge with the same results. When oming the sender I get a good reading. Don't you just love electrical problems? My tail lights were delightful as well. Love my 68 but want to get this temp deal fixed before crusing.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 09:50 PM
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Does the back of your gauge look like this?You said the new gauge doesnt use the resistor did the old one have one on it?You have done a good job checking everything your problem has to be at the gauge.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 11:12 PM
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I had a similar problem...never went over 120*...checked the gauge, continuity of the wire, replaced the sending unit...and everything was working ...and after all that...found out the thermostat had failed in the "open" position, so the engine never got a chance to "heat up"

Hope this helps...Good Luck!
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 11:16 PM
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I HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH MY 76.Doesen't go over 100 and did all the same tests and new gauge and does the same thing.So i am just going on to other problems. Good luck and keep us posted on the outcome.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 11:41 PM
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mine does the same thing but i have not looked into it yet LOL
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 11:51 PM
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The resistor "must" be in place and a fiber washer under the resistor.If the resistor is not there the gauge will read about 215* when you ground the green sensor wire.It will remain around 100* at all other times even when connected to the sender in the head.
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 06:12 AM
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Default Will do some more testing

Thanks so much for all the input. I think you are correct that this must be a problem at the gauge. I will run some more tests and see if I can isolate the problem. If and when I find it I most certainly will post it. Dwncchs, my old gauge did have the resister on it. The new gauge instructions said not to use the resister. I agree that the problem is at the gauge, just not sure what to do, and I do not want to kill the new gauge, if thats possible. Your picture is great and the back of my gauge looks like the picture minus the resister.
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by condor7
Thanks so much for all the input. I think you are correct that this must be a problem at the gauge. I will run some more tests and see if I can isolate the problem. If and when I find it I most certainly will post it. Dwncchs, my old gauge did have the resister on it. The new gauge instructions said not to use the resister. I agree that the problem is at the gauge, just not sure what to do, and I do not want to kill the new gauge, if thats possible. Your picture is great and the back of my gauge looks like the picture minus the resister.
Don't forget the fiber washer-it goes "under" the resistor on the 3 O-clock stud.The 3 O-clock stud is the culprit and at the present time you are taking it directly to ground on the case-it needs to be insulated from ground by around 90 ohms.
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by condor7
Thanks so much for all the input. I think you are correct that this must be a problem at the gauge. I will run some more tests and see if I can isolate the problem. If and when I find it I most certainly will post it. Dwncchs, my old gauge did have the resister on it. The new gauge instructions said not to use the resister. I agree that the problem is at the gauge, just not sure what to do, and I do not want to kill the new gauge, if thats possible. Your picture is great and the back of my gauge looks like the picture minus the resister.
Just for $hits and giggles I went out and removed the resistor and the fiber washer and the gauge performed Exactly as you described.Exactly.Check with who sold you your gauge but I cant imagine it would hurt the gage.The resistor is insulating the gage "from" ground by around 90 ohms.Give us an update when you find out something.
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 07:20 PM
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Thanks Dwncchs for all the information. I will look at the gauge and see if I am missing the washers you mentioned. I agree the problem must be at the gauge. I will also put the resister back on the new gauge and see what happens. I will let you know how all turns out. Won't be doing it this weekend as I will be at Vettes at the Village just outside Jacksonville FL. This is a primere NE Florida event at the World Golf Village held every year on fathers day weekend.
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
Just for $hits and giggles I went out and removed the resistor and the fiber washer and the gauge performed Exactly as you described.Exactly.Check with who sold you your gauge but I cant imagine it would hurt the gage.The resistor is insulating the gage "from" ground by around 90 ohms.Give us an update when you find out something.
Man that was real cool of you to go do...We need more members like you here.
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
Man that was real cool of you to go do...We need more members like you here.
Thanks for the compliment. I do enjoy getting to the bottom of things even if it takes a little extra time.Plus I'm just a little anel if no one noticed. Oops can I say that on here!!!
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