I installed the "killer lights" setup from McSpeed with all brand spankin new parts from GM Parts Direct. I figured headlights are a big safety function so I shouldn't cheap out. Get what you pay for right? umm no.

Everything installed and wired up for testing purposes.

I'll try to explain this so those who have not installed this combo can understand. Side note: I HATE all this electrical wiring crap. So when I had problems to where I wanted to break something I called upon my pops many years of electrical engineering experience.

Ok, we we have two wire actuators mounted at the headlight buckets that run to a C4 vette headlight module mounted on the driver fenderwell. The headlight module then runs two wires to the constant power of the battery, one wire to a down feed and one wire to an upfeed. Specifics below:

-Driver actuator two wires run to term. A & B on Module small plug. Check!
-Pass actuator two wires run to term. C & D on Module small plug. Check!
-Term. A on the Module large plug run to the headlight "on" wire on the C4 headlight switch. (This is the thick blue wire on the stock harness that runs b/w the headlight switch and highbeam and gets power only when the headlight stem is pulled out to activate.) Check!
-Term. B and E on the Module large plug runs to constant power at either the battery, battery post on the starter. For testing purposes I took power right off the battery itself. Check!
-Term. C on the Module large plug runs to the down feed which is the spare spade terminal on the C4 headlight switch that gives power when the headlight stem is pushed in. Check!
-Term D on the Module large plug is grounded. For testing purposes I grounded to negative on battery. Check!

Here's what happens. When I connect everything and the headlight switch is in the off or IN position the headlights will either go up or down depending on the polarity of which actuator wires are hooked up to A or B on the Module small plug. So they should go down when the switch is in. But when I pull the headlight switch stem out they should then go up! but they don't.
So I thought maybe the signal wires weren't functioning from the headlight switch. So we used a voltage tester and stuck the signal wires close to the module. When the switch is closed the "On" wire is zero and the "down" feed is 12 volts. When I pull the stem and the switch is open the "On" wire is 12 volts and the "down" feed is zero. So the switch is functioning.

My conclusion....the module is bad. It isn't switching the polarity to the actuator when the signal wires change polarity. Is that a safe conclusion???? B/c if it is then I now have to contact GMParts Direct and I'm sure that will be a lengthy and exhausting process to which I may want to ring someone's neck.

I am going to give Chris a call at McSpeed and see what he thinks.

Also, anyone know if these firebird headlight actuators have limit switches in them?? When I put power to the motors and they went up or down it doesn't seem like they are shutting themselves off when they reach their full up or full down position. The motors get very very hot. Or are the motors looking to the Module for a limit switch and maybe the module isn't kicking the limit function?

Did I mention I hate this wiring/electricity crapola?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

http://www.mcspeed.homestead.com/Our_Products.html

 

Chill out man, you hate electricals too??

I"m joking with you, I love that crapola, but not about Chris' system there,....he is really good very through man, but buzzy as hell these daze besides his JOB.....he will get back to you....

 

There are no limit swiitches in the motors. The module has a built in timer and relay that shut them down after a period of time.

 

Thanks guys.
I hate just about everything that gives me problems, then I love it when it works. Love/hate relationship and my electrical system is in the dog house right now.

Chris has been very good with communication via e-mail and I wrote to him thismorning. I can just imagine the hassle of dealing with GMPartsDirect so I wanted to hear your opinions on the system so I can get a jump start on the BS flying back and forth with their customer service dept.

So you think its the module? from an electrical perspective does it sound like the module is not switching the signal wires? as if the power in the module is always in the "On" or up position. and I guess the module limit switch timer isn't functioning either.

 

When you first apply power for the first time the headlamps should cycle up/ down. This should set the limits of the up/down. If it is doing the reverse of the headlamp switch just reverse the wires at the motors. The main thing to remember is they have to cycle first. If in fact it is the module you will have a heck of a time with anyone making good on electrical parts. Good Luck

 

When you say cycle.... I would apply power to the motors and they would go up or down depending which wire I connected the power side to. So they would go up and max out and stay there. Are they suppose to go up then down by themselves the first time? how do they cycle? better yet how do I get them to cycle?

 

The module depends on a feedback from the actuators when they reach the limit of their travel - up or down. Once there is substantial feedback the module will shut down. In fact, you could install smaller square beam or projector lights in your bucket and set the bump stop to limit the door to half the current opening distance. Once that binding is realized the module will just shut down. There is no timer or limit switch in the actuators. They will spin in one direction or the other as long as there is power supplied and they don't "bind" against a bump stop.

If they are going up when you want them to go down (on your first set up) - just reverse the wires going to the actuators. It would seem simple just to say: A = green wire, and B = grey wire. However, to be on the safe side it is best just to try them first rough wired, then swap if needed until they are going in the right direction.

To make the module cycle correctly, it has to run through a up/down at least once. This means you might have to turn it all on, then manually run the light all the way up or down (opposite of where it is now), then trigger the switch. That will cause the module to cycle, then go to pause waiting on the next command.

As long as the module has power (two wires) and solid ground - and you get a 12+ signal for up that stays constant while they are on, and a 12+ that stays constant from the C4 switch when they are down - then there is no worry there. Make sure you don't have power on the down signal and the up signal at the same time. The only thing left that has to happen is for the actuator to run in one direction - then stop at the top or bottom. That sets the module in park mode.

While modules do fail right on new cars - it is pretty rare. I haven't personally had one fail - but electronics are what they are.