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New 383 setup/tuning question

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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 12:56 AM
  #21  
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I hope the 700 that broke wasnt a bowtie overdrive unit Thats what I bought- stage 2.
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by lars
You're running too much timing. If those are fast burn heads, you need to be down around 28 to 32. If they're not fast burn, you should be at 36 max. But make the curve come in quick, and make the curve short enough to allow about 18 degrees initial timing while limiting the total to the above noted specs.
What is the definition of a "fast burn" head and why should the timing be set to 30* instead of 36*?
How will the 6* affect the performance?
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by gbak
What is the definition of a "fast burn" head and why should the timing be set to 30* instead of 36*?
How will the 6* affect the performance?
Got this from the Hotrodders forum:

"curtis73
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Fast Burn is a name that GM came up with. It really is a great technology and really does work as well as it says. There are aftermarket fast burn heads, usually copied from GMs chambers.

The general idea is to shape the combustion chamber in such a way that the rising piston meets a specially shaped deck. It attempts to make optimum squish or quench, which is a fancy way of saying it squishes all the charge out into the combustion chamber making it turbulent. Turbulent = well mixed = fewer liquid droplets of fuel = fast flame front. All of that equals to better detonation resistance, less ignition lead, better economy, and more power. It hasn't solved all the worlds problems, but it has taken a significant leap forward in all of those parameters. "
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by stingraysteve
I hope the 700 that broke wasnt a bowtie overdrive unit Thats what I bought- stage 2.
It was BTO's Level 3,rated at 600hp,but I guess in California,600hp = 400hp everywhere else. I got one week out of it before the crunch.
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 11:00 AM
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Did BTO warranty the trans?
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 11:53 AM
  #26  
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No. I was honest with them and admitted I did not have a tranny cooler built into my radiator. This info was disclosed prior to me ever even driving the car. They voided the warranty on the spot,even though I explained I was running a 10x17" external cooler,that had worked perfectly on my th350 for years.

For what it's worth I installed a temp guage and after the 700r4 was rebuilt locally I monitored the temps for a year,and it never went over 170 degrees.Usually closer to 150.

If I lived in California,somebody at BTO would have had a 700r4 dropped on his desk for sure.
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 04:33 PM
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Lars, I saw you gave a recommendation for a vac can P.N. for another cam on a vac adv post. Can I ask you what is your recommendation for this hyd roller .246 int 254 ex. at .050 and 558 lift int and ex. 112 lobe center? 383 ci.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 05:00 PM
  #28  
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Bumpin it up hoping Lars responds on the vac can question.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
Only the cheapest 383 stroker kits are externally balanced. So they are used by the bubba type mechanics cutting corners.

You also can not put any old 400 flexplate and balancer on a motor. They are balanced as a set.
Hey, I resemble that remark!
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 12:18 AM
  #30  
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Ok, used infrared temp gun and #2 cylinder is way colder than the other 7. Pulled the plug wire and the motor fell off in rpm consistant with the others when they were removed. Exhaust is noticably weaker on that bank of cylinders at the tailpipe. Compression check on that cylinder next should tell something. Any scenarios? Rings not yet seated? Only one hour on the motor.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by strokervette
Hey, I resemble that remark!
Yeah, me too!
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 06:01 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by stingraysteve
Ok, used infrared temp gun and #2 cylinder is way colder than the other 7. Pulled the plug wire and the motor fell off in rpm consistant with the others when they were removed. Exhaust is noticably weaker on that bank of cylinders at the tailpipe. Compression check on that cylinder next should tell something. Any scenarios? Rings not yet seated? Only one hour on the motor.
If they are cast rings, they seat rather quickly. Is it a hydraulic cam?? Compression test will let you know alot!
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 06:18 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by stingraysteve
Ok, used infrared temp gun and #2 cylinder is way colder than the other 7. Pulled the plug wire and the motor fell off in rpm consistant with the others when they were removed. Exhaust is noticably weaker on that bank of cylinders at the tailpipe. Compression check on that cylinder next should tell something. Any scenarios? Rings not yet seated? Only one hour on the motor.
Have you connected all vacum hoses correct?

When I started up my 383, two of my exhust ports where a lot colder than the other six, measured with a temp gun.
I couldn't just understand why.
The problem was caused by a vacum hose that wasn't connected.
After when I connected it the temp became equal on all eight cylinders.
I don't understand any logic in it, but the missing hose was the solution.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 08:42 PM
  #34  
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Cylinders 2 and 7? I think all my vac hoses are ok. Ill check the things you mentioned, Thanks for the ideas!

Last edited by stingraysteve; Jun 26, 2007 at 10:22 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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One mine cylinders 1 and 8 run colder than the others and the plugs tell the story. Interesting thread, I'll stick onto this one to find out what happens.
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Old Jun 28, 2007 | 01:08 AM
  #36  
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Progress! I determined the flywheel is on backwards. I had this engine and bto 700r4 trans installed by a local corvette shop. They race corvettes but must have smoked some grass the day they installed it. This puts the weight 180 degrees off and is undoubtedly what was making this motor not seem happy. What a relief, i suspected this earlier but was ***-ured that it was on correctly. Explains my starter problems too. With the inspection cover off, it was apparent it was incorrect. Now if anyone can tell me how to adjust the valves when the spec is 3-4 thousanths preload on a warm engine for my comp pro hyd rollers. 0 lash plus 1/ 24th turn? Sheesh.
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Old Jun 28, 2007 | 07:52 AM
  #37  
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Street avenger on a performance engine

If you'd go with a mechanical secondaries 4150 carb, you'd probably pick up 20 RWHP over that carb without reducing streetability (as street driving is usually done on the primaries anyways).
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Old Jun 28, 2007 | 02:11 PM
  #38  
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500 horse engine 450 horse trans= better not tap every last hp was my thought. Good advice though. Anybody adjust their comp pro lifters out there? See above post by sr steve.
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