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Having a problem with the heater control switch. All of the electrical parts of the switch work great but the vacuum control wont open the vents or switch from the heater to the defrost. I have good vacuum coming into the control and just replaced the heater control unit but it still doesn't work. Is there something else to check like a valve or a damper dorr switch? Thanks!
From: Peoplez Republik (communist portland) Orygun
Originally Posted by dexter551
.......the vacuum control wont open the vents or switch from the heater to the defrost. I have good vacuum coming into the control and just replaced the heater control unit but it still doesn't work. .....
OMG. I have been scouring the archives for this. Yes, please! Somebody help Dexter ASAP!
I have had the same darn problem with my 80. No defrost & no vent switching!
dexter551
Try pressing the 2 halves of the switch together.
Originally Posted by Vette80regon
I have had the same darn problem with my 80. No defrost & no vent switching!
Originally Posted by tyler77
I have an 80 also with the same problem what up with this?
I wrote this up awhile back for this problem.
The problem is that heater is the default position (no vac. or vac. leak) due to being designed in the north. Vent should be default. Very safe bet the problem is 1 OR 2:
1) The vac. line from engine is damaged from heat - a small plastic tube that goes in below the hood alarm switch into wiper valley. Replacing most of engine side w/ hose will fix. OR
2) The vac. switch itself is not switching due to vac. leak as the usually plastic rivet is not holding the 2 main switch parts together well. Besides replacing, it is also possible to tighten this &/or lube w/ a thin layer of white lithium grease or vasoline to fix.
3) If you have a heater, the small vac. tube to heater hose valve underhood probably also needs replacing. Block w/o heater.
PS The design problem comment is not intended to be offensive to any of our northern friends.
dexter551
Try pressing the 2 halves of the switch together.
Put your ear down to the selector lever - do you hear a hiss(vacuum leak)If you do the 2 halves have seperated.You can fix this but probably best to just buy a new one.
Put your ear down to the selector lever - do you hear a hiss(vacuum leak)If you do the 2 halves have seperated.You can fix this but probably best to just buy a new one.
using a hand vacuum, I tested all the lines.
1 made sure vacuum was present
2. moved all the parts by adding vacuum to the other lines.
I concluded that the vaccuum switch is inoperable.
Ill replace someday but it is low on my list.
Haven't checked the heat on my new '75 yet but I can see one of the vaccum hoses in the engine compartment seems to have melted on itself. Likely to the point where the nothing can pass all the way through the hose. I'm sure I get good suck, but not to the other end!
Put your ear down to the selector lever - do you hear a hiss(vacuum leak)If you do the 2 halves have seperated.You can fix this but probably best to just buy a new one.
Wombvette has the best idea, but it you do buy a new one, try to get the GM, not the repoduction. I have had several of the repro's leak worse that the one that it replaces.
Easier in the engine compartment - room to work. To access in the cockpit, you have to remove the center console, passenger dash and some ductwork - not particularly difficult, but very time consuming.
Put your ear down to the selector lever - do you hear a hiss(vacuum leak)If you do the 2 halves have seperated.You can fix this but probably best to just buy a new one.