When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm putting my intake on right now. I have Fel-Pro gaskets and the instructions say to use a quick-dry adhesive to hold the gaskets in place such as Pro Line Fel-Cobond. Can I use blue RTV, or wait until tomorrow?
Don't use too much RTV, it will actually keep the gasket from sealing evenly. I think I'd use a very, very thin film of RTV, just to hold them in place, not trying to seal anything.
i agree with smokehouse69 just enough to hold it in place.and i also dont care for the blue silcone unless its ultra blue,regular blue doesnt hold up as well.anything ultra is good...
I just did another SB Chevy engine...
This one did not have the front/rear rails drilled for the gasket retaining "pins".
I put a light coat of sealer on both sides of the side gaskets, only around the water passages, and, a dab in all 4 corners where the side & end gaskets meet. No additional sealer anywhere, and no adhesive. I only use the sealer on the water passage area because you will almost always find corrosion in this area, which will contribute to sealing problems. The 4 outside corner bolt holes were blind, so I used oil on those bolts. The rest received a thin coat of Permatex #2 covering 1/2 the threaded portion (about 5/8 inch) to prevent oil leaks past the bolt threads. Everything was completely de-greased. I used Parmatex #2 and the engine is not leaking a drop, the rubber end rail gaskets are in place & sealing perfectly.
I use "Tack-Spray" to hold my gaskets in place. All you do is spray a light coat on your gasket and put it in place, I've found that it works rather nicely. It can be purchased at your local Advance Auto for about $5.00 or so.
I did this a couple of weeks ago--same gaskets. I used Edelbrock's Gasgasinch around the intake ports, to glue the gasket in place. A CHP article recommends Permatex High Tack gasket sealer--it is fuel resistant, and should be easy to find, so maybe it's a good alternative for you.
I also used a thin bead of ultra black RTV around the water ports, and a thick (1/4") bead of the same stuff on the China Walls, extending a little on the head surface (joining the thin bead around the water ports).
Make sure that all surfaces are squeaky clean! A common problem area is in the corners where the head meets the block. The slightest amount of oil can prevent the RTV from sticking. Give the RTV as much time to set up as possible before starting the engine. If not set, engine oil may disolve it. If you can't wait for it to cure over night, use a blow dryer to speed things up.
I ended up using the ultra black RTV that Pedro mentioned along with the rubber valley gaskets. I found a tip in a book to use the rubber seals if you have the holes for the pins. Like everyone said, the book also streesed the need for everthing to be clean and grease-free. I used q-tips and laquer thinner to clean out the holes for the gaskets and for the intake bolt holes (after I chased them multiple times). I also put a very small bead of ultra black on the top of the valley gaskets (book tip), a blob in each corner where they met the head gaskets and I smeared some around each water port on both sides of the gaskets. As for the bolts, I used new ARP head bolts and teflon tape. So far so good but I've only got 20 minutes of running time on it so far. Pics will be forthcoming after I find some valve covers with the correct size holes that don't cost a mint. It's going to be a while before I have the time and money to build an engine, so this one had to get cleaned up. I was ashamed to open my hood.