CS144 alternator upgrade
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 91
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From: London, UK
CS144 alternator upgrade
Hi guys,
Finally got myself into gear and started my upgrade. Have a question though, can I leave the additional charge wire attached at the alternator and starter in addition to running a new 170amp charge wire? Or do I need to disconnect them and cut them back?
Also I have chased the loom back and found that the red charge wire is soldered together with the red plug wire for the alternator connection. I have checked this on another vette and it is exactly the same. I am assuming that red goes to red and the brown wire goes to the yellow on the cs144 adapter plug.
Thanks for any help
Finally got myself into gear and started my upgrade. Have a question though, can I leave the additional charge wire attached at the alternator and starter in addition to running a new 170amp charge wire? Or do I need to disconnect them and cut them back?
Also I have chased the loom back and found that the red charge wire is soldered together with the red plug wire for the alternator connection. I have checked this on another vette and it is exactly the same. I am assuming that red goes to red and the brown wire goes to the yellow on the cs144 adapter plug.
Thanks for any help
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,186
Likes: 45
From: detroit area
i upgraded my alt wire to a 4 gauge and my ground to a 1odd....my question is can i just run a jump wire from the alt to the starter to feed the hott to the starter?......or will i fry something...... or should i just run another 4 gauge from the starter to the batt....
b
b
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
i upgraded my alt wire to a 4 gauge and my ground to a 1odd....my question is can i just run a jump wire from the alt to the starter to feed the hott to the starter?......or will i fry something...... or should i just run another 4 gauge from the starter to the batt....
b
b
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,186
Likes: 45
From: detroit area
really...0.... wtf... on the battery jump wire i bought a few years ago was a 4 gauge wire.....
seems like its the same gauge...4gauge.....hmmm... i'll check tomorrow....
thanks for the heads up though
\
b
seems like its the same gauge...4gauge.....hmmm... i'll check tomorrow....
thanks for the heads up though
\
b
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
No prob. My original cable was that copper-plated aluminum garbage in 0 gauge. The AC Delco replacement in real copper was a touch thinner...somewhere between 0 and 1.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
If you don't have a GEN light, you'll have to add a resistor in the L terminal line (don't know what year your Vette is). Here's how I did mine: CS144 Installation
I left my original charge wire in place. No reason to remove it really.
I left my original charge wire in place. No reason to remove it really.
Last edited by Z-man; Jun 28, 2007 at 02:14 AM. Reason: Edited for clarity and addition of flowery language
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Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: London, UK
If you don't have a GEN light, you'll have to add a resistor in the L terminal line (don't know what year your Vette is). Here's how I did mine: CS144 Installation
I left my original charge wire in place. No reason to remove it really.
I left my original charge wire in place. No reason to remove it really.
Am I right in saying then that everything can stay as it was on the old alternator (old charge wire + plug connector) and just run the new heavy gauge wire from the BAT to starter?
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: London, UK
I have a pigtail that I will cut and solder on. My main concern was the original charge wire. I wanted to leave it connected in addition to the new one as it runs into the back of the fuse box then out again but I don't know where! I didn't want to leave it off and kill power to anything that needs it and picks it up from there. I don't want to start frying things if it shouldn't be on though either.
wish i never started now... a snapped bolt in the head from alternator bracket took ages to get out and now the belt is too short! all part of the fun i guess. Cant wait to have her back on the road
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
You can leave every wire that was hooked up before in it's place. You can even transfer over the ground if there is one bolted to the case. The ONLY thing you HAVE to do is convert that SI plug to a CS plug somehow and it seems you are doing that.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Yes - putting two wires (the original and a new one) between two locations is basically just adding more capacity to the same path (which is needed for higher amperage).
While you are getting the correct belt, you might as well add a new suspension and drive-train.
While you are getting the correct belt, you might as well add a new suspension and drive-train.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,441
Likes: 0
This drawing is a simplified depiction of the 1972 charging circuit. The power path to the fuse block is from a tap off of the horn relay labeled "existing loads", specifically the one with the 16 ga fusible link. This horn relay lug is the central distribution point for all power loads, any additional loads should be tapped off this same point, not from the starter.
The main point here is that the charging circuit doesn't travel "through" the fuse block, it has a dedicated path.
I don't know what year Vette you have but it should be wired similarly.
The main point here is that the charging circuit doesn't travel "through" the fuse block, it has a dedicated path.
I don't know what year Vette you have but it should be wired similarly.
