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More HP -especially at higher rpm. More heat in engine bay and at your feet. I run Hedman with HPC coatings.
Beware of clearance problems at AC evap box.
I think headers are great if you aren't going for the numbers matching "look." Installing headers and a free-flowing exhaust is one of the easiest ways to get quick "bolt on" horsepower. The nice thing about headers is that the hotter the setup that you have, the more the headers benefit you.
I would suggest going with long-tube headers. The popular choice around the forum seems to be Dynomax Cerama-Coated headers. Cerama-Coating decreases the temperatures under your hood (in comparison to painted headers) while creating a finish on the outside of your headers that won't blue or flake off. Cerama-Coating is the way to go if you have the extra money to spend. I believe Jeg's carries the long-tube Dynomax Cerama-Coated Headers for about $210 + Shipping.
Get quality gaskets and bolts. Cheap gaskets shrink over time and the bolts loosen. I have Percy Aluminum gaskets and Stage 8 locking fasteners. No leaks and no retightening in 4 months and 3000 miles since I put the new gaskets on.
BTW, I have the Dynomax Cerama-Coats. Car is no hotter than before and they do cool off pretty quickly when shut down.
Accessibility. That seems to suck a lot. I need to change the plug wires in the 1972. Starter has to come off to remove passenger side heater sheild. Starter won't come out unless header is removed, or at least loosened considerably. That is also the side that has the AC compressor bracket mounted with the header :cry :smash: On the other hand, you have great access to spark plugs themselves that you don't have with stock manifolds :yesnod:
Since I already have my new chambered pipes installed...what abt a set of shorty headers to replace my "Rams Horns", or wouldnt it be worth it....BTW I've always done things bass ackwards so pleez save your opinions in that direction OK?