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Instructions say to install the T shaped mounting studs in the slots on the frame rail and then install the side pipe tube with the rubber grommets, washers and nut. How do you hold the T mounting stud in the frame rail and how do you keep it from turning as you tighten the nut. The frame on my 72 has no access to the back side of the slots.
Instructions say to install the T shaped mounting studs in the slots on the frame rail and then install the side pipe tube with the rubber grommets, washers and nut. How do you hold the T mounting stud in the frame rail and how do you keep it from turning as you tighten the nut. The frame on my 72 has no access to the back side of the slots.
It's a carriage bolt. The square part between the round head and the threaded shaft is held by the sides of that slot.
I got these sidepipes used and this is the mounting hardware that came with it. Looks like the same from the manufacture website. I don't understand how that T mounting stud is held in place in the frame rail.
I had the same hardware. It works pretty good really. Slide the T-bolt in the slot and turn the tee perpendicular to the slot. Then keep downward or upward pressure on the bolt while you slide everything on - washers, side pipe flange, etc., with the other hand. Finally, put the lock washer and nut on. When the nut starts tightening, then the pressure will keep the tee on the bolt from rotating. I assembled both bolts on each side pipe loosely at first just to hold everything in place. Then I went back and tightened each bolt.
I got these sidepipes used and this is the mounting hardware that came with it. Looks like the same from the manufacture website. I don't understand how that T mounting stud is held in place in the frame rail.
Interesting. The stock system used a carriage bolt, I don't know why Hooker wouldn't do the same.
I've found that the tack weld holding the T to the stud is very prone to snapping. I've broken 2 with very little torque while tightening. I also worry that with vibrations they may break. I instead used standard bolts and lockwashers on 2 sets I've installed. Very much a PITA but worth the peace of mind.
I've found that the tack weld holding the T to the stud is very prone to snapping. I've broken 2 with very little torque while tightening. I also worry that with vibrations they may break. I instead used standard bolts and lockwashers on 2 sets I've installed. Very much a PITA but worth the peace of mind.
I don't want to beat a dead horse, but is there a reason you used standard bolts rather than carriage bolts? It seems like it would be a lot of extra work for minimal, if any benefit.
looks like somebody brought home one of their government issued black pens...
Don't worry, I have about a hundred of them floating around in my garage too
When I installed my sidepipes, I just wrapped a some wire around the the bolts to hold them in place while I slipped the sidepipes on. Someone else recommended that idea in another thread several months back.