400 4-bolt main in process of getting checked & machined. Still not sure on the final recipe. I want to do the Edelbrock RPM performer Package, but have heard that it may be too small. I want something streetable and still affordable (around 4k complete). We've been talking about keeping the cast crank and put new I-beams & forged pistons, but I don't want to under build it either.

Any thoughts or proven recipes?

 

There are many ways to go here,none are cheap,but in my case budget was a major concideration. I run a flat tappet solid cam to work the valves fairly hard but without the expense of a roller setup,and baught heads I felt would still have decent street manners,but flow well enough to put a grin on my face when the hammer goes down.

The 400 is a huge small block,so you've got to upsize some of the parts to get some power out of it. If you put the RPM heads on,and a mild cam it will make a great tow truck engine,but I don't think that's the direction you really want to go.

 

Thanks, but how much is too much? I did upgrade the rearend to a 3:7 but I still have the same stock half-shafts and am wondering just how much the system can take?

Should I go forged everything with Brodix/Dart heads or would this level of hp keep breaking the car in other areas?

 

If you would be satisfied with power slightly above 400 HP, the Performer RPM package would work fine. If you want more power, I'd highly recommend the RHS heads which are the best deal for the money.. They offer some heads that will make some great power and still be on a budget.. I've seen those heads assembled for about $1400..

I don't know how much you have into it so far but here's what you are looking at if you want over 500 HP:

$1400 for heads (complete with rocker arms and stud girdles)
$500 for Eagle forged crank (I'd really recommend a forged one)
$350 for forged pistons
$430 for Eagle h-beam rods
$50 for pushrods (yes, you can get .080 wall 5/16 pushrods for that little)
$400 for a nice solid or hydraulic roller cam & lifters
$30 High volume oil pump

So, you are looking at about $3000 - $3500 for plus what you'll pay for machine work..

I don't know how much machine work you need but you could be able to stay under $4k for the complete build and make 550+ HP on pump gas...

 

If you run a automatic transmission, I wouldn't be all that concerned about the half shafts... They SHOULD hold up to over 500 HP with automatic tranny.. Especially if you are running street tires, you should be fine as the tires will break loose before hurting anything.. I wouldn't try a footbrake burnout.. You could destroy the half shafts that way..

Just make sure that you are running solid spicer u-joints..
RHS heads are the way to go if you want inexpensive power..

I'd go forged if you want power and durability.. The Eagle stuff is good and cheap..

 

Here's a link to a seller that sells new RHS heads

http://www.racingjunk.com/post/83126...-FOR-SBC-.html

I have no personal experience with the seller but he has been on Racingjunk for a while..

 

The weak link I've been struggling with was the trans. I also run 3.70's,P295 50's and though I have not raced the car,I do drive it. (No holeshots or wheelies,but occasional hard launches and aggressive shifts)

I took a detour,tried the 700r4,learned my lesson,and now run a th400. In all this,the stock rear and half shafts haven't given me a lick of trouble.

Heads up. You WILL have to upgrade the radiator,and most likely the fuel pump/carb. A 400 that makes a lot of power gets hot,and thirsty!

My SCAT cast 9000 crank has seen 7000 rpms many times,and with no issues. I would say forged is good insurance,but probably not needed if your shooting for around 500 hp or so.I just used ARP fasteners,and checked all the tolerances carefully.(hand filed ring gaps,checked cam/rods,hand port matched the intake to the heads...etc.)

If you're looking for the magic combination,I can only tell you what I've tried ,and liked. Everyone has there own idea of what the perfect combination is,so even if you built my 406,YOU may feel it's too aggressive.Some may think I should have gone wilder with the cam,and cranked up the compression a point or two. I like yourself wanted as much as possible without going too far. I'm at 254 degrees @.050 and though it's a lumpy idle,it's not too bad. I wouldn't recommend going any bigger if you plan on keeping the car on the street. As it is,I sometimes loose power brakes,and idling at the stop lights forces me to shift into neutral so I can blip the throttle to keep it from stalling if I sit there too long.

My previous combination ran the RPM intake,and Comp XE-284 cam with 1.60 rockers. Much better street manners,but still potent.When I bent two pushrods turning 6500 rpms,I decided to anti up,and go solid.

GrandSport is dead on with the pricing. I spent about $4500 or so for mine with AFR heads,machine work and all.I did the assembly at home and saved big time though.

 

You can get alotta reliable HP&TQ outta that sbc400 without alotta $$ forged, roller etc ... read this article about doing just that:
http://chevyhiperformance.com/techar.../148_0306_406/
and this one where they upgraded the above combo
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...imp/index.html

Read those thoroughly several times ... very good info ... not etched in stone ... little is ... so use 'em as a guideline. Whatever you do should depend on ... first, what your budget $ is ... second, what you'll actually need the motor to do.

 

Oh man a performer RPM 170 runner head is to small for a 408
cosider a 200 runner head still give you good torque allow your
engine to breath some.

 

195cc aluminum China heads-ported
30 30 cam
10.95 cr
400 std block
dual 500 Preformer carbs
All very streetable with 3.55s and M-20.

 

Just got the call, the block is junk. The guy tore it down and it was already .060 over with a messed up crank.

Maybe I should just stick with my original plan of a 383 with the Edelbrock RPM Package.