Only other option maybe to run steel braided lines
1969 Fuel Line Replacement Help
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Naperville Illinois
1969 Fuel Line Replacement Help
I am new to the forum and this is my first post. I have a '69 small block convertible with a stock 350 300HP motor bought last fall. The fuel lines are about rusted out and I have decided to replace them. Body off line replacement is not an option as I don't have the facilities. Ideally I would like to keep as much of the factory look as possible, but I am open to other options. (Safety first in all cases) Any replacement methods you have tried successfully would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 134
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From: North Ga
From reading the literarture on Cu-Nickel lines they can be easily formed and are durable, check out this link http://www.fedhillusa.com/.
It's easier with the body off but I believe it can be done, search previous posts.
It's easier with the body off but I believe it can be done, search previous posts.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
yes you can replace the lines without removing the body....you will have to cut the small vertical section and replace that with a rubber line or a steel line. It's a hassle, took me four hours, and that includes bending the line. You can purchase the line to save yourself the hassle of bending, but cut the 4 " vertical section, put a small flare on the ends of the cuts so the rubber line can get a bite.
IN essence, you have to cut the line, and cutting the line by the vertical is about the best place....
IN essence, you have to cut the line, and cutting the line by the vertical is about the best place....
Melting Slicks
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I've never done it this way but I have always thought you could cut the pre-bent line right at the frame upright where the line takes a 90 degree turn up and install a 90 degree flared fitting, so in essence you'd have a two piece supply line. The only sacrifice would be the coiled wire wrap protection wrapped around the tube in that area.
I don't see any good reason why this wouldn't work.
I don't see any good reason why this wouldn't work.
Last edited by shafrs3; Jul 7, 2007 at 11:21 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Naperville Illinois
Fuel Line Replacement Help
Thanks very much to all who replied. The help is very much appreciated. Still weighing the options. Hope you can help with a few more questions:
I would like to see if I can cut stainless steel OEM lines once and install them. Is there a way to connect the two cut lines without using rubber hose, something like a brake line block fitting for fuel lines? That would give me more confidence in the set up than a hose connection. If I use stainless steel lines, do I need a special flaring tool that handles the harder metal to make the flares? What's the consensus on the best place to cut the lines? Lift clearance is an issue. I have the rear end out of the car and it's on jack stands. Will I have enough height clearance to get the new cut lines in?
If I go with flexible lines, assuming I want to keep the stock fuel tank connections (fuel and return) and fuel pump connections, how would I connect the flexible lines to the tank and also to the fuel pump?
I would like to see if I can cut stainless steel OEM lines once and install them. Is there a way to connect the two cut lines without using rubber hose, something like a brake line block fitting for fuel lines? That would give me more confidence in the set up than a hose connection. If I use stainless steel lines, do I need a special flaring tool that handles the harder metal to make the flares? What's the consensus on the best place to cut the lines? Lift clearance is an issue. I have the rear end out of the car and it's on jack stands. Will I have enough height clearance to get the new cut lines in?
If I go with flexible lines, assuming I want to keep the stock fuel tank connections (fuel and return) and fuel pump connections, how would I connect the flexible lines to the tank and also to the fuel pump?
Banned Scam/Spammer
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You could cut the OE line, invert flare the ends, and get a union. I would not try this with ss line (it is very hard to flare correctly); use the mild steed (although it will only last 50 years instead of forever). Get a good flaring tool (not the cheap chinese stuff at Autozone).
I've never done a fuel line this way so you must determine how many slices it will take.
I've never done a fuel line this way so you must determine how many slices it will take.
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Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
I've never done it this way but I have always thought you could cut the pre-bent line right at the frame upright where the line takes a 90 degree turn up and install a 90 degree flared fitting, so in essence you'd have a two piece supply line. The only sacrifice would be the coiled wire wrap protection wrapped around the tube in that area.
I don't see any good reason why this wouldn't work.
I don't see any good reason why this wouldn't work.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Leander Texas
I also used the mild steel line when I replaced all the fuel lines, three solid pieces, but I replaced the lines when I had the body off.
If I had no other choice, and had to cut the line, and install a flex union, I would try a hydrualic shop for the hose ends. Weatherhead makes Flareless fitting that is swedged onto a hose. They work like a compression fitting.( 247 'n' series on page: 208 in the link)
http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products...ts_140-215.pdf
For the hose I would use this: ( H-166 truck hose on page: 38 of this link)
http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products...36-49_hose.pdf
This is all available through NAPA
With a minimum hose work pressure of 500psi , and rated for fuel I think you should be very safe. Also the fittings don't need to be crimped, but the crimp on style are available.
If I had no other choice, and had to cut the line, and install a flex union, I would try a hydrualic shop for the hose ends. Weatherhead makes Flareless fitting that is swedged onto a hose. They work like a compression fitting.( 247 'n' series on page: 208 in the link)
http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products...ts_140-215.pdf
For the hose I would use this: ( H-166 truck hose on page: 38 of this link)
http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products...36-49_hose.pdf
This is all available through NAPA
With a minimum hose work pressure of 500psi , and rated for fuel I think you should be very safe. Also the fittings don't need to be crimped, but the crimp on style are available.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,943
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From: Florham Park NJ Port Credit Ontario
By a coil of fuel line and bend your own. So easy a caveman can do it. I did mine by myself and they turned out great.
I did not remove the body either. Having to Remove the body is an urban myth.
I did not remove the body either. Having to Remove the body is an urban myth.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 16,978
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From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
There is a trade off....one piece fuel line, body off tons of work, more than it's worth.
Spiced fuel line, max 6 hrs, body is not disturbed.
Net effect, none, if spliced the correct way, the splice is undetectable.
Stewart is correct in his statement, the body can stay put if you are willing to splice the line.
