Aluminum radiator
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Advanced
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 73
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From: Dallas TX
Aluminum radiator
In the summer I continually have a problem with overheating. If I run the A/C (a must in TX summer) the temp goes north of 220. If I cut it off it does not continue to go up and may drop a little. I roast in the car but at least make it where I am going. I put the dual spal fans on last year but they don't seem to do much in the scorching heat w/ the a/c on. . So the question is- Time to change the radiator and if so to an aluminum?
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 152
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Hi,
I just posted thjis in General a few minutes ago.
Seal it up
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Make sure that your fan shroud seals against the radiator support snugly. Purchase some soft tubular black rubber pipe insulation and some weatherstrip adhesive, make seals from it and seal up any gaps between the shroud and support. Also check the top of the radiator support. Is there a seal there to stop air from flowing over the top of the radiator? If not, use some more insulation and make one, or you can get the seals from Doc Rebuild.
Another item to check is the lower radiator hose. They are supposed to have a spring in them to prevent them from collapsing at high RPM's, the water pump can suck them shut, like a drinking straw collapsing.
Another frequently recommended solution is to drill a 1/8" hole in your thermostat to prevent air from getting trapped in the cooling system.
I hope that helps!
I just posted thjis in General a few minutes ago.
Seal it up
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Make sure that your fan shroud seals against the radiator support snugly. Purchase some soft tubular black rubber pipe insulation and some weatherstrip adhesive, make seals from it and seal up any gaps between the shroud and support. Also check the top of the radiator support. Is there a seal there to stop air from flowing over the top of the radiator? If not, use some more insulation and make one, or you can get the seals from Doc Rebuild.
Another item to check is the lower radiator hose. They are supposed to have a spring in them to prevent them from collapsing at high RPM's, the water pump can suck them shut, like a drinking straw collapsing.
Another frequently recommended solution is to drill a 1/8" hole in your thermostat to prevent air from getting trapped in the cooling system.
I hope that helps!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
Likes: 88
From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
What about the water pump.. If you have a stock flow pump, you'll need to upgrade.. Even if you put a top of the line aluminum radiator in there, it still won't cool enough with the stock flow water pump.. You need a pump with at least 30% more flow.
I personally use a Pro Comp aluminum pump with 35% more flow than stock and a Griffin Universal Radiator (bolted right in).. Total cost for both was slightly over $200 ($159 for the radiator and about $50 for the pump)
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1677197
As you are in Texas, you probably won't see too many days with freezing temps, so you could also run straight water with Water Wetter.. That change alone should lower your temperature by 20 degrees or more..
I'm running above mentioned mods as also a auxiliary 16 inch electric fan.. The temperature, even on a 95 degrees summer day in stop and go traffic never goes above 190 degrees with a 185 degrees Thermostat..
I personally use a Pro Comp aluminum pump with 35% more flow than stock and a Griffin Universal Radiator (bolted right in).. Total cost for both was slightly over $200 ($159 for the radiator and about $50 for the pump)
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1677197
As you are in Texas, you probably won't see too many days with freezing temps, so you could also run straight water with Water Wetter.. That change alone should lower your temperature by 20 degrees or more..
I'm running above mentioned mods as also a auxiliary 16 inch electric fan.. The temperature, even on a 95 degrees summer day in stop and go traffic never goes above 190 degrees with a 185 degrees Thermostat..
Last edited by GrandSportC3; Jul 7, 2007 at 10:17 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
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From: if you have a ? on my avatar, please contact me directly, you spineless twit
St. Jude Donor '09
I agree with all of the above, however, check the seals first. If the air is going around your radiator, doesn't matter how good the rad, pump or hoses are.
Did the whole deal, DeWitt'or with the aluminum radiator with the dual Spals, new hoses, and a seal kit from Dr. Rebuild. Can't get her above 190* now.
Did the whole deal, DeWitt'or with the aluminum radiator with the dual Spals, new hoses, and a seal kit from Dr. Rebuild. Can't get her above 190* now.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
I was just about to make a post on aluminum radiators....
I need to consider a new radiator and was thinking aluminum with dual fans... BUT ! Would the aluminum radiator have maintenance issues - inside and out?
I need to consider a new radiator and was thinking aluminum with dual fans... BUT ! Would the aluminum radiator have maintenance issues - inside and out?
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
I've got a Griffin 19X31 with a 16in. electric fan and have no problems at all.
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Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: San Diego CA
What about the water pump.. If you have a stock flow pump, you'll need to upgrade.. Even if you put a top of the line aluminum radiator in there, it still won't cool enough with the stock flow water pump.. You need a pump with at least 30% more flow.
I personally use a Pro Comp aluminum pump with 35% more flow than stock and a Griffin Universal Radiator (bolted right in).. Total cost for both was slightly over $200 ($159 for the radiator and about $50 for the pump)
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1677197
As you are in Texas, you probably won't see too many days with freezing temps, so you could also run straight water with Water Wetter.. That change alone should lower your temperature by 20 degrees or more..
I'm running above mentioned mods as also a auxiliary 16 inch electric fan.. The temperature, even on a 95 degrees summer day in stop and go traffic never goes above 190 degrees with a 185 degrees Thermostat..
I personally use a Pro Comp aluminum pump with 35% more flow than stock and a Griffin Universal Radiator (bolted right in).. Total cost for both was slightly over $200 ($159 for the radiator and about $50 for the pump)
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1677197
As you are in Texas, you probably won't see too many days with freezing temps, so you could also run straight water with Water Wetter.. That change alone should lower your temperature by 20 degrees or more..
I'm running above mentioned mods as also a auxiliary 16 inch electric fan.. The temperature, even on a 95 degrees summer day in stop and go traffic never goes above 190 degrees with a 185 degrees Thermostat..
Are you tripping? I'm running a stock water pump with my northern factory aluminum radiator and I can't even get the thing over 200 after beating the tar out of it at autocross.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 114
Likes: 18
From: McKinney TX
Aluminum Worked for Me
I replaced a perfectly good OEM radiator on a moderately modified 74 small block because the normal running temperature was consistently around 220. (I live just outside Dallas, TX.) BeCool advertised a 20 degree drop with their radiator. That's just what I got. Consistently 200 degrees max with the OEM mechanical fan and no other changes. I had to modify the shroud a bit (their doc warns of this) to clear the lower hose.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Grapevine Tx
2018 C3 of Year Finalist
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My 72 LT-1 would constantly overheat with the a/c (yes, factory a/c) in traffic here in Texas in the summer. All I did was put in a Dewitts alluminum radiator with new seals and stays cool now. Stock fan and waterpump.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
Sounds like you all are having great results with the aluminum upgrade. In my situation, I have bought an Edelbrock Alum H20 pump - has higher and equal flow.
My next step is the radiator as well so with TexasFight, I have the same concerns. I do not recall radiators that were stock aluminum except for certain few hiperf motors. - which came stock aluminum.
My next step is the radiator as well so with TexasFight, I have the same concerns. I do not recall radiators that were stock aluminum except for certain few hiperf motors. - which came stock aluminum.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 73
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From: Dallas TX
Thanks for the feedback. Since I no longer have the original fan/shroud (replaced by the dual spal) would the recommended insulation be the same or similar? I replaced the water pump last year and put on a 160 deg thrmo. I will check the lower hose as well. Thanks
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 152
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If I understand you correctly, the only area left is the top of the radiator support. Fill the gap between the top of the support and the hood so that air goes through your radiator instead of over the top of it.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
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From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
I probably won't need all the things on my cooling system but there is no such thing as overkill when it comes to cooling.. If you can keep the temperature close to the thermostat rating, you have a efficient cooling system.. That's what matters.. I'm sure that I could drive through Death Valley at 125 degrees and still would only run 190 degrees
Cruising
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 10
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You won't be disappointed with the Dewitt. I replaced the leaking orginal in my 454 with the Dewitt aluminum and a lower temp thermostat. It's hard to get the car over 180 degrees. Make sure you clean/flush the system before you put in the new rad.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,071
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From: San Diego CA
I probably won't need all the things on my cooling system but there is no such thing as overkill when it comes to cooling.. If you can keep the temperature close to the thermostat rating, you have a efficient cooling system.. That's what matters.. I'm sure that I could drive through Death Valley at 125 degrees and still would only run 190 degrees
Your engine's oil begs to differ! Unless you're running like 0w30 or something. :PLuckily no water is pumped through until the thermostat is open...
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
Likes: 88
From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
That's what I meant.. If the cooling system is effective, you'll be running at the temperature determined by your thermostat...
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
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From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
