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I read in two different books (one had pictures!) that the middle of the front crossmember is the best place to jack the front of your C3. When I went to jack the front for the first time, I grabbed a piece of 2x6 that was just a little longer than the xmember is wide. As one of the earlier posters mentioned, the front and rear edge of the crossmember are rigid; the wood distributes the load between these two areas and prevents crushing the bottom "skin" of the crossmember. I don't see how a pad on the jack saddle would prevent the damage; the bottom of the crossmember just can't support the weight of the car without deforming. FWIW I also use a hunk of 2x4 when jacking the rear from under the spring mount.
When I jack up my 82 I use a floor jack on the frame rail close to the tire. I jack up one corner at a time, tire about three inches off the ground, put a jack stand under that corner then go to the other side. Rear first and then front for all four wheels or just the front or back if that is all needed. Is this the best way to avoid damage to the frame and body alignment?
Who the hell is going to see a dent in the crossmember? I would put some more horsepower into these cars rather than worry about a dent in the crossmember. Just a thought!
When I jack up my 82 I use a floor jack on the frame rail close to the tire. I jack up one corner at a time, tire about three inches off the ground, put a jack stand under that corner then go to the other side. Rear first and then front for all four wheels or just the front or back if that is all needed. Is this the best way to avoid damage to the frame and body alignment?
Thanks,
Andy
IMO, that's a pretty good way. I also have put the jack in the center of the frame rail and just lifted both wheels on one side of the car at the same time. This avoids excessive torque on a corner of the frame. I would NEVER jack up the car by the front cross member.
OK, I finially got around to using the dent repair tool (bought it 2 years ago). Was it worth the effort? Probably not, but it was rather fun and I considered it a challenge. I’m sure it would have turned out a little better if I knew how to do metal working. Took me better the part of 3 hours including removing the coil spring. I think I had the anvil in and out 15-20 times trying different shims.
If anyone wants it, you can have it for 75 bucks plus shipping as I’ll never need it again. I think I paid 130 for it at the time now it's almost 150.
I'm surprised someone doesn't sell a thicker cap that can be welded on and ground off.
Thats my thought also. A nice cover plate that could be welded on and thicker so the area can be used for jacking. It would just take a template (cardboard) and some cutting tools (plasma) and a roller. I have the Plasma cutter Welder and ability. i just don't have a roller to get the proper arc for an exact match.
Would be much easier to just buy one from some one else and weld it on.