Smart Strut
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Joined: May 2000
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From: Clearwater FL
No this is Dan. You will need to notch the batwing in a certain spot. I had a link with a bunch of pics but we just changed our homepage and some other things and the site got lost somewhere. I'm having my guy try to fix it. When he does I will post a link with pics. It shows what needs to be done.
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From: Clearwater FL
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Seville Ohio
Checked the porch today when I got home and there were the new strut rods!!!
I proceeded to start taking the old ones out and discovered the back bolt was severely bent- and I am not really sure why they put the bolt in through the back side so it hits the spring and is impossible to take out - sawsall came in handy though. Is there any problem with putting the bolt back in through from the front side?
After hosing the shock mount down with liquid wrench and a few light taps with the hammer, it is obvious that I will have to use one or a combination of methods to get that bastard free. I see what you guys meant about the tabs on that mount- break one of those off and it will make for a bad day.
This weekend I will try again.
Thanks for the advice.
I proceeded to start taking the old ones out and discovered the back bolt was severely bent- and I am not really sure why they put the bolt in through the back side so it hits the spring and is impossible to take out - sawsall came in handy though. Is there any problem with putting the bolt back in through from the front side?
After hosing the shock mount down with liquid wrench and a few light taps with the hammer, it is obvious that I will have to use one or a combination of methods to get that bastard free. I see what you guys meant about the tabs on that mount- break one of those off and it will make for a bad day.
This weekend I will try again.
Thanks for the advice.
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Seville Ohio
Thats usually the biggest issue and what causes breakage of the ear on the bearing housing mount.That part is expensive and will ruin your day if you break it.Turns a small job into a big one.
Here is the way I began doing it if the shock mount resists one little bit.I call it the surgical method.I take my 90 degree die grinder with a 3" thin cutoff wheel and cut the strut rod on both sides where the shock mount goes through.I peel off the strut from around the rubber.I then cut the rubber with a sharp knife and peel it off.This leaves the inner rusted sleeve(the culprit) which has a split in it.I then drive a small chisel into the split which seperates the sleeve from the shock mount.The only thing left holding it is the knurl.It will drive out now without breaking off the ear on the mount.Takes less than 5 min.
Here is the way I began doing it if the shock mount resists one little bit.I call it the surgical method.I take my 90 degree die grinder with a 3" thin cutoff wheel and cut the strut rod on both sides where the shock mount goes through.I peel off the strut from around the rubber.I then cut the rubber with a sharp knife and peel it off.This leaves the inner rusted sleeve(the culprit) which has a split in it.I then drive a small chisel into the split which seperates the sleeve from the shock mount.The only thing left holding it is the knurl.It will drive out now without breaking off the ear on the mount.Takes less than 5 min.
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From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
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From: Seville Ohio
and it doesn't want to budge- I can see why those brackets may snap off with the amount of force it takes to knock that shock mount free. I hosed it down with liquid wrench last night and will try again this morning. Hopefully it will be on the road again by tonight.
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From: Seville Ohio
I whaled on the the thing a number of times and it doesn't want to budge- I can see why those brackets may snap off with the amount of force it takes to knock that shock mount free. I hosed it down with liquid wrench last night and will try again this morning. Hopefully it will be on the road again by tonight.
and it doesn't want to budge- I can see why those brackets may snap off with the amount of force it takes to knock that shock mount free. I hosed it down with liquid wrench last night and will try again this morning. Hopefully it will be on the road again by tonight.Eneded up getting a new shock mount also since it was so rusted.
One tromp of the gas led to $600.00 and being out of commission for three weeks. Ugh!!
Thanks again!!
This guy in town has a running 454 out of a 85 suburban- I heard it today and it sounds fine. $1000.00 for the engine and the turbo 400. Sound like a deal or not?? I am looking for a big block for my chevelle.
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
DONE!!!! Road check good. Thanks for all the help... I took it out and didn't get crazy on the gas pedal so hopefully I can drive it for the rest of the summer before it gets a new rearend!
Eneded up getting a new shock mount also since it was so rusted.
One tromp of the gas led to $600.00 and being out of commission for three weeks. Ugh!!
Thanks again!!
This guy in town has a running 454 out of a 85 suburban- I heard it today and it sounds fine. $1000.00 for the engine and the turbo 400. Sound like a deal or not?? I am looking for a big block for my chevelle.
Eneded up getting a new shock mount also since it was so rusted.
One tromp of the gas led to $600.00 and being out of commission for three weeks. Ugh!!
Thanks again!!
This guy in town has a running 454 out of a 85 suburban- I heard it today and it sounds fine. $1000.00 for the engine and the turbo 400. Sound like a deal or not?? I am looking for a big block for my chevelle.
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Seville Ohio
Doesnt sound like a bad deal if the engine is decent.I have a 79 Suburban with a 454 that I rebuilt 15 years ago to use for towing.I wouldnt take less than $1500 for it knowing what it would cost me to replace it.I didnt tow much so it just sat around and the body rusted.I was considering selling it or just putting it under the bench for a later project.It has some pretty good stuff in it.Let me think about it and I might get back with you and see if you might be interested.
