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I will be replacing the stock camber rods with adjustable ones this week on my 1980. Anyone have any tips or things to look out for? It doesn't appear to be that difficult but usually when I say that, it ends up beating me
Thanks
Mine bolted right in. Took me a bit to figger out just how to adjust them, but I got it. Not hard at all.
Excellent- I may have more problems than this since I broke a half shaft and it beat the hell out of a lot of things-I have replaced the shock and the half shaft but now the tire is leaning in pretty good so I figured for short term, I would try and get an adjustable camber rod and see if I can't pull it in. I am going to replace the whole rear end and differential this winter- working with van steel- any dealings with them?
Yes. The cast arm that is part of the spindle bearing carrier is easily broken trying to remove the shock mount. I got a Truck lug nut 1" deep from Carquest that threads on to the shock mount that I thread on and give it a crack with a BFH. Easily removes the mount without damaging the mount, threads or the spindle bearing carrier. They sell a remover but my lug nut is in the top drawer of the tool box and works great. Spray everything down a couple days before with PB Blaster. Watch to make sure the sleeve is not siezed to the shaft of the shock mount.
Watch to make sure the sleeve is not siezed to the shaft of the shock mount.
Thats usually the biggest issue and what causes breakage of the ear on the bearing housing mount.That part is expensive and will ruin your day if you break it.Turns a small job into a big one.
Here is the way I began doing it if the shock mount resists one little bit.I call it the surgical method.I take my 90 degree die grinder with a 3" thin cutoff wheel and cut the strut rod on both sides where the shock mount goes through.I peel off the strut from around the rubber.I then cut the rubber with a sharp knife and peel it off.This leaves the inner rusted sleeve(the culprit) which has a split in it.I then drive a small chisel into the split which seperates the sleeve from the shock mount.The only thing left holding it is the knurl.It will drive out now without breaking off the ear on the mount.Takes less than 5 min.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Have heard reports of poly bushed camber rods loosening. Thing is, the camber rods move in more than just one plane, so if you don't move on up to sphericals, I'd suggest checking them frequently.
Excellent- I may have more problems than this since I broke a half shaft and it beat the hell out of a lot of things-I have replaced the shock and the half shaft but now the tire is leaning in pretty good so I figured for short term, I would try and get an adjustable camber rod and see if I can't pull it in. I am going to replace the whole rear end and differential this winter- working with van steel- any dealings with them?
van steel just rebuilt my differential with a 3.73 gear with a few upgrades. customer service has been very good and they have been a lot of help with advice. very good to deal with.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
For anyone with real power, you're going to keep breaking the 10-bolt. Put a 12-bolt IRS diff. in mine years ago. After beefing up the rest of the IRS, no more problems back there... Call Tom's and be done with it.
For anyone with real power, you're going to keep breaking the 10-bolt. Put a 12-bolt IRS diff. in mine years ago. After beefing up the rest of the IRS, no more problems back there... Call Tom's and be done with it.
Problem is he has an 80. 12 bolt won't work for him. The only thin he can do is go to a cast iron diff and it will bolt up to his aluminum bat wing. He can use the 30 spline axles but the batwing will have to be modified.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by Van Steel
Problem is he has an 80. 12 bolt won't work for him. The only thin he can do is go to a cast iron diff and it will bolt up to his aluminum bat wing. He can use the 30 spline axles but the batwing will have to be modified.
ooopsie
I guess I had thought the change was in '81. I stand corrected.
I guess I had thought the change was in '81. I stand corrected.
I do the same thing-get the changover mixed up.You would think new nose and tail on car that would mark new rear end but there are some transition items that make it confusing.I think all the 80s had a metal leaf spring and then in 81 some had plastic and some had metal(fe7).Its hard to keep up with. Guess that where a book comes in handy.
Thats usually the biggest issue and what causes breakage of the ear on the bearing housing mount.That part is expensive and will ruin your day if you break it.Turns a small job into a big one.
Here is the way I began doing it if the shock mount resists one little bit.I call it the surgical method.I take my 90 degree die grinder with a 3" thin cutoff wheel and cut the strut rod on both sides where the shock mount goes through.I peel off the strut from around the rubber.I then cut the rubber with a sharp knife and peel it off.This leaves the inner rusted sleeve(the culprit) which has a split in it.I then drive a small chisel into the split which seperates the sleeve from the shock mount.The only thing left holding it is the knurl.It will drive out now without breaking off the ear on the mount.Takes less than 5 min.
Another, similar method (this is how I got my very jammed passenger-side assembly apart): I burned the remains of the bushing (which wasn't much) out of the strut rod, then heated the inner sleeve until it was glowing red. At that point, I could use my $0.70 removal tool (3/8NPT pipe cap) to drive the strut rod free. This had the upside of salvaging all of the parts, even though I ended up buying a set of adjustable strut rods.
Looking at the front of your car, do you have a stock rearend??
Well, for now. I have been getting information from Van Steel on what I will need to do to handle the HP. One slip of the gas pedal one time and I did some damage- broken half shaft, broken shock, cracked fiberglass and now the bent camber shaft- didn't realize it was bent until I got it back together and it looks like it has a broken leg from behind.
All the parts I am putting back in are just to get me through the summer and will be coming back out to be replaced with some beefier components.
Where do you live in Wadsworth?
Problem is he has an 80. 12 bolt won't work for him. The only thin he can do is go to a cast iron diff and it will bolt up to his aluminum bat wing. He can use the 30 spline axles but the batwing will have to be modified.
What sort of modifications will I need to do to the Bat wing? Is this Paul by chance?
I live near the highschool. FYI I heard every Tuesday 6 p.m. at Burger King on 94 they have a corvette gathering. I havent made it there yet myself so I dont know how many show but if your in the area.
I live near the highschool. FYI I heard every Tuesday 6 p.m. at Burger King on 94 they have a corvette gathering. I havent made it there yet myself so I dont know how many show but if your in the area.
Well, it is 10 min up the highway but I can't take it anywhere until this strut rod is replaced ( and I hope it works)
I may make it up there sometime though.
Getting the shock mount off can be the hard part. I had to do the same as DWncchs. Cut the strut rod and the rubber insert to expose the sleeve. Peel the sleeve off and then knock the shock mount off.
I bought a rebuilt stock strut rod from Van Steel. Van Steel gets my highest recommendation. I've bought several items from them and have been very satisfied with their quality and service.
I bought some new camber adjusting bolts from another vendor that were junk (half the bolt was milled away to get the flat that fits into the cams and the bolt was soft steel that bent and stretched easily). I didn't even attempt to put them on. So make sure you check those out carefully. Get the bolts that are exactly like the stock ones.
With either setup, you must make sure the adjusting bolts are tightened and locked in place real good or they will creep and allow the adjustment to change.