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First, if I am replacing my clutch assembly, how do I know which one to get without putting my car on a lift (10 spline vs 26 spline). Also, how do I know if indeed the clutch is bad and there's not perhaps another source of my clutch slipping.
It might be possible to take the clutch fork boot off and see the splines. Is there any signs of oil leakage? If you clutch is slipping and you don't know any history, then it probably needs replaced. I recommend centerforce II or dual friction.
Get the numbers off your transmission case. That will tell you what kind of transmission it is (B-W, Muncie, etc.), and if it's the original transmission. Once you know what the tranny is, you can find out if it has a 10 spline or 26 spline input shaft.
I just did a clutch replacement an my 70 coupe. The clutch was actually broke though.(it was not slipping or anything) one of the springs on the clutch disc broke out and was preventing the clutch from disengaging. Nice job to. I've got about 20 hours into it and I am back on the road again. I went with a standard replacement assembly. nothing special. I didn't know what was wrong with it untill I pulled the tranny. All I knew was I could not get it into gear and the clutch pedal felt odd. Good Luck
Since it's a manual transmission from 73 its gotta be a muncie or saginaw, and since they didn't put saginaw's in Corvettes, the transmission is a Muncie 4 speed. That said, is it any easier to determine what I need (10.5 in or 11 in clutch plate). Looking through the parts catalogs it seems apparent that whichever it is I need a 26 spline clutch set.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
If you end up replacing your pressure plate, unless you already have a B&B type that you're happy with and are replacing it with the exact same part #, I'd go with (or stay with) a diaphragm type design. My $0.02.