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Took my 75 C3 to a drag racing night last Friday here in the UK and now when I pull away hard the fan hits the cowling, so I'm assuming I have broken the left hand side engine mount, as that's the one that's being stretched.
Is this a reasonable assumption, and is it easlily fixable. Can I jack up the engine and slip a new mount in. I see in my Mid America catalogue that there are locking and non-locking mounts. What's the difference between these (what exactly is it that locks) and would either be usable without removinge the engine. Do urethane mounts transmit more engine vibration through to the car than rubber ones.
Surprised this has happened as the car had a body-off rebuild 4 years ago and I was only running mid 15 seconds at around 100mph.
Cheers, Rob.
Hi Rob,
I found that both my mounts were broken when changing the trans. As they were the locking type there was no damage done, so I'd recommend locking mounts
This will happen regularly, unless you install solid mounts. They do not break and do not cause vibration inside the car. Do it once and forget it.
Bernie
The "locking" mounts are shaped such that the metal parts interlock. If the rubber or poly part breaks, the metal interlock keeps the engine from moving more than about an inch or so. You still have to replace the mount, but there usually isn't any damage to anything. With a "non-locking" mount, the engine can rock many inches and do considerable damage! Go with locking. I'm running polyurethane mounts and like them for street. Can't tell much difference from rubber. I'm not sure about solids for the street - even if you can't feel it, the engine is transmitting its vibrations to the frame through the mounts. Things eventually crack.
I'm not sure about solids for the street - even if you can't feel it, the engine is transmitting its vibrations to the frame through the mounts. Things eventually crack.
if the chassis wasn't designed to cope with vibration from a solidly mounted engine then I wouldn't take the risk (having seen what happens when vibration causes failure of a frame.... ).
I got a pair of locking mounts (next day delivery) from Corvette Kingdom. As you say, just jack up the motor slightly & slide the old out & the new in.
If your engine vibrates, there is something wrong with it. It torques from left to right. the frames on C3s flex so much already, if you don't beef the frame it will crack. As for the solid mounts, there are too many people on the forum running them with major horsepower without problems. It does a great job stiffening the front frame area, fixing a motor mount problem and improved handling.
Bernie
How do you go about raising the motor enough to make this change without the use of a cherry picker?
Chunk of plywood on top of a floor jack, under the oil pan. You don't need to raise the motor, you just need to hold it in place. The plywood has enough "give" that you won't damage the oil pan unless it's rotted anyway.
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Chunk of plywood on top of a floor jack, under the oil pan. You don't need to raise the motor, you just need to hold it in place. The plywood has enough "give" that you won't damage the oil pan unless it's rotted anyway.
Excellent. Now without lying, tell me it's that easy to change the trans. mount and body mounts as well.
Excellent. Now without lying, tell me it's that easy to change the trans. mount and body mounts as well.
The transmission mount is very simple - I don't remember if I even put the jack on it. I think I just unbolted it and knocked it out once the solid motor mounts are in (if you have flexible mounts, I'm sure you'll need to hold it up with the jack). It was far less work than the motor mounts.
The body mounts aren't supposed to be difficult if the nuts don't break free. I'm hoping it's not too bad, I have the poly kit, new bolts and new #4 reinforcements - both of my #4 reinforcements are on the verge of disintegration.