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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 02:28 PM
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Default Help reading spark plugs

I threw this in another thread as well, but isnt exactly the right Title for my questions on reading spark plugs...

Ok I pulled a few plugs and they all more or less look like the pics below. I think there might be some detonation on the porcelain?? As far as the heat strap, there seems to be the reat heat range, and as far as jetting on the base ring, I really couldnt make it out... All these reading were from the plug pulled from the last time I drove the car... and Ive read that they need to be read after a WOT run and shut down immediately... After I wentout and did a WOT run in 3rd gear to about 100mph I shut it down, but my damn motor likes to pre-detonate or whatever you call it, when you shut it off and it keeps surging around. In any case, the plugs looked just like they did before I made the run and same as the pics below...
Can anyone tell me if it looks like im running lean, rich, detonating?
Or can I not get an accurate reading cause the motor is surging/detonating when turned off?
Thanks again... Chris




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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 02:49 PM
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Set Timing, Idle speed and Idle mixture first, then test drive to read the plugs
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jcswm
Set Timing, Idle speed and Idle mixture first, then test drive to read the plugs
thanks for the reply jcsw...
Timing is set at 12 at idle and 36 total, idle is 800, and idle mixture screws have been set as good as I can tell with use of a vacuum guage.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 03:12 PM
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Do you see that bit of heat discoloration near the end of the ground strap, that tells you where your timing is. Near the end of the strap, where it is, would be a little too far advanced. Back off your timing a couple of degrees and give 'er another go. See if it moves to the bend in the strap where it should be. It looks like you could richen it a tad, but if you do you will move the timing mark also, because you are cooling the motor by adding fuel, that mark is directly affected by heat, and amount of fuel.
This is purely my own philophy.
TJ
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 08:13 PM
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Interested in the answer to this one. To me it looks too lean but I am no expert. TTT
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 08:29 PM
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Try this.

http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Sp...s_catalog.html
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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Well here"s my guess:
That"s a brand new set of plugs with less than a tank of fuel run across them and haven"t had time to color up yet. How"d i do?
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dmaaero
Well here"s my guess:
That"s a brand new set of plugs with less than a tank of fuel run across them and haven"t had time to color up yet. How"d i do?
Completely wrong! lol Sorry bud...
Probably almost 5000 miles.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by carguy4sure
Interested in the answer to this one. To me it looks too lean but I am no expert. TTT
It's lean.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by weimer20
It's lean.

Thats what I've been thinking, but how did you guys come to the conclusion? Because the porcelain is soo white??

And if its lean, how many jet sizes would you suggest going up at a time... I dropped 3 sizes down before from the way it came from the factory (Speed Demon) since everyone said it was too big a carb for a zz4. Would 3 jet sizes make it that bad?
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 12:25 PM
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Were these plugs new, run at a WOT blast, shut off and then pulled?

If it is surging it is likely detonating a little. I see the little pepper marks on the porcelain, can you look at them under a magnifying glass and see any shiny flakes? (aluminum) the little black specs could also be oil, not likely if they all look like the plug you posted.....do all the plugs have the little black specs ?

What gas are you using ?

Have you ever seen how racers cut the threads off a plug to expose the fuel ring at the bottom of the porcelain? can you do this after you make a clean pass with a fresh plug?
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 12:31 PM
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Sorry. I don't see much of anything wrong with those plugs. They aren't carbon-ed up, the electrode isn't eaten up, no oil fouling, light tan color on end of porcelin... are you having a problem with them?
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 12:38 PM
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Follow-up: If you are having "engine run-on" problems, it isn't the plugs. The pre-injection 70's engines had various means of shutting the engine down without run-on (dieseling) issues. My '71 w/A/C turns on the A/C clutch when the engine is shut off so that there is a "load" placed on it. Your '74 probably has a different method (but I don't know what it is). I would guess that whatever "shut-down" system yours came with is not working properly.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 12:47 PM
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The run on is probably caused by crappy gas, a little compression, and too much timing. If he stuck a tank full of race gas in the car there is about a 99% chance it would not run on
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 03:39 PM
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When you asked about Carb Jet sizes in your other thread I replyed..

Call them and ask!!!

Contact Technical Support (706)864-8544 before making any calibration changes
When I called Holley and eldelbrock I told them what I had & they told me what Jets..... The Eldelbrock is dead on, I haven't tried the Holley yet but they sounded like they knew exactly what jet kit to use.
I'd back the Timing up 2Deg & richen up the Idle Circuit a little and check the fuel filter before you drive it

Last edited by jcswm; Jul 10, 2007 at 03:43 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 N.O.X. RATT
The run on is probably caused by crappy gas, a little compression, and too much timing. If he stuck a tank full of race gas in the car there is about a 99% chance it would not run on
This is just with 93 octane pump gas, 10:1 CR, and 12BTDC timing @ idle.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jcswm
When you asked about Carb Jet sizes in your other thread I replyed..



I'd back the Timing up 2Deg & richen up the Idle Circuit a little and check the fuel filter before you drive it
When you saw back up the timing 2Def from 12BTDC, do you mean to 14 or 10?
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Follow-up: If you are having "engine run-on" problems, it isn't the plugs. The pre-injection 70's engines had various means of shutting the engine down without run-on (dieseling) issues. My '71 w/A/C turns on the A/C clutch when the engine is shut off so that there is a "load" placed on it. Your '74 probably has a different method (but I don't know what it is). I would guess that whatever "shut-down" system yours came with is not working properly.
My method of shutting it down is letting the clutch out slightly with foot on brake before shutting key off... obviously this works perfect, but isnt helping with shutting the key off at 6000 RPM after doing a run... lol
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 74VETTE
When you saw back up the timing 2Def from 12BTDC, do you mean to 14 or 10?
Sorry, Retard to 10, The Vortec engines like a little less timing than the older designs. there is a LONG sticky about setting the timing

Last edited by jcswm; Jul 10, 2007 at 06:07 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 07:55 PM
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seems like too lean to me. A normally worn spark plug should have light tan or grey deposits on the firing tip.
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