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Should have said that the bolts have a "star" type head. I tried a 1/4" 12 point socket, as well as 7/64, and 3/16, but no dice... Anybody done this before ?
I have an 81 automatic. I have always used a craftsman 12 point quarter inch socket with no problems. I just replaced all four u-joints about a month ago. I recall seeing other posts some time ago with the same advice. They do tend to get rounded off and or stripped. :chevy
i have a couple of customers that i work on there 80 and 81 and i use a 12 point 1/4 socket on them,but one of them easily stripped out and had to replace them.
I just replaced ALL u-joints on my '82. A 12 point standard socket fits the DRIVE shaft, and you need a TORX socket on the HALF shafts.
Also, on the propshaft(driveshaft), the retaining straps should be torqued to only 15 ft. lbs.(20 N-m) with the 1 1/16 bearing cap, and 25 ft. lbs.(34 N-m) with the 1 3/16 bearing caps.
On the half-shafts the torque specs. are 30-40 N-m for the retaining straps.
I think Magnum 82 has it right. On my '81, I needed the 12-pt socket on the propshaft and a special TORX socket on the halfshafts. I found the corect TORX socket in a set at Pep Boys. They're manufactured by Lisle, at about $25 for a set of 6. Even using the correct socket, the TORX bolt heads were still damaged somewhat in the removal process. I tried to find correct replacements but couldn't. So I ended up getting socket-head bolts (grade 10 or better) to replace them all.
:seeya
1/4" Drive, Deep well, 1/4", 12-pt Socket. Worked on all but the one bolt that stripped out on my left, in-board half shaft u-joint cap. Pulling the other bolts off and leaving the u-joint cap in the clamp allowed me to get the darn thing out and then proceeded to destroy the resistant bolt. Fortuntaely, I wasn't dependent on the u-joint survival or reuse of the diff (neither was damaged but I had new replacements already). Van Steel had a replacement u-joint bolt for about $.10 when I picked up the rebuilt half shafts.