When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You need a test light, make one from a brake light bulb. Unplug the connector from the side of the alt. Connect the light from ground to the L terminal on the connector, thats the brown wire in the pic. With the key on that should light the Gen Lighton the dash about half bright, if it does, then ground that wire and the Gen light should go full bright.
Now connect the test light to the Red wire on the connector and ground, Key on = light bright, key off = light on, do not ground this wire.
reconnect the connector to the alternator and check voltage on the Bat term on the back of the alt, it should equal battery voltage.
Start it up, same check alt should be putting out about 14.~ volts. If not there is an alternator problem, get it tested
Did it charge at all?
The plug has three wires. each with a small letter on the plug
The Red wire goes to the Red wire on your existing harness [battery positive]
The Brown wire [labled L] goes to your existing harness brown wire [lamp]
The Black wire [labled F] on the plug goes to a fused, hot in run power source. I found this researching the wire schematics for the TPI that I installed. Without this wire connected it would not charge. The f terminal may or may not be used depending on the origional application of the alernator you are using. http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_sbpage1.htm
Last edited by DR.Jay; Jul 13, 2007 at 06:23 AM.
Reason: posted referance
You say "The Black wire [labled F] on the plug goes to a fused, hot in run power source. I found this researching the wire schematics for the TPI that I installed. Without this wire connected it would not charge. The f terminal may or may not be used depending on the origional application."
I don't understand. The original directions told me to clip off the black wire and not hook it up. Do you mean it actually does need to be hooked up to an ignition on hot power source?
BTW the alternator does not charge at all. Also, I had the alternator tested and it is fine. And, the old alternator did work, but the charging was not strong, so I got this alternator for an "upgrade".
There are different versions of the CS series alternators. If there are any wires coming out of that plug than the big red wire and the brown wire on the "L" pin, you'll have to figure out what those other wires are supposed to be doing.
Now it is not charging at all. Does anyone have any suggestions? What can I check to determine the problem?
Thanks alot...
~Jim
Jim - What year is your Vette and does it have a GEN light in the center gauge bezel?
The brown/white wire to the alt, aside from the red one, is the important one. In cars with a GEN light it leads to the alt from that bulb which adds resistance to the system. This is needed for the alternator to charge.
Sixfooter was touching on this, and basically if you don't have that GEN light you need an inline resistor to take place of the bulb.
Jim - What year is your Vette and does it have a GEN light in the center gauge bezel?
The brown/white wire to the alt, aside from the red one, is the important one. In cars with a GEN light it leads to the alt from that bulb which adds resistance to the system. This is needed for the alternator to charge.
Sixfooter was touching on this, and basically if you don't have that GEN light you need an inline resistor to take place of the bulb.
there needs to be resistance on that line (either a resistor or a light bulb) for current limitation for the exciter coil on the alternator. It will set the maximum current fed to the coil. Without it the alternator will burn the exciter coil or the regulator (or both)
there needs to be resistance on that line (either a resistor or a light bulb) for current limitation for the exciter coil on the alternator. It will set the maximum current fed to the coil. Without it the alternator will burn the exciter coil or the regulator (or both)
try this link. z-man posted this on one of my threads regarding not having a "GEN" light on the dash. I have one so it didn't apply to me but it might help you out. this is for a CS144 but the procedure is the same for a CS130. good luck
The site below tells you how to figure out which adapter to buy for your CS-144 tie in to your 12SI: I also added the key paragraph below in case you cannot open it.
"If you are unsure which adapter to use, measure the resistance of the exciter line. Disconnect the positive battery cable and the alternator plug. Connect an ohm meter between the #1 terminal on the plug end of the alternator harness and the end of the positive battery cable. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position and read the ohmmeter. If resistance is less than 35 ohms, use adapter #8078. If it’s between 35-350 ohms, use #8077. If it’s more than 350 ohms, you have excessive resistance somewhere in that circuit which needs to be repaired, first."
Hopefully this gets you going in right direction. I'm not absolutely certain that the same measurement values apply to the CS-130, but I suspect they do. I just bought an adapter at NAPA after measuring the resistance on my circuit.