Stat or not?????
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 842
Likes: 3
From: Woodruff SC
St. Jude Donor '10
Stat or not?????
Been having high temp problems. Flushed the radiator real good without the thermostat. Refilled rad with a 50/50 mix and left the stat out. Drove around about 20 minutes and it didn't get over about 175. Is it OK to run w/o a stat in the summer?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 3
From: CA
This issue has been dabated many times on this post. Here is what I recommend...buy a Mr Gasket high flow stat. The opening is larger than the stock stant so its the closest thing to the flow of no stat, yet you will still ensure you reach a minimum operating temperature.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Typically, no. It's possible for the coolant to flow too quickly in some instances to transfer heat adequately. Replace your stat with a quality pressure balanced one, preferably 180*. Since you'll have it in your hands before installation, you might as well test it by suspending it in a pot full of water as you bring the temp up, monitoring with a candy thermometer (best to do this when the wife's away 
) while you watch for it to open. Sometimes thermostats don't function properly or at all, so I check every one I install in this way.
) while you watch for it to open. Sometimes thermostats don't function properly or at all, so I check every one I install in this way.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 736
Likes: 1
From: Chester VA
I usually drill a couple small holes too. I know some stats now advertise that they don't fail closed, but I'm still paranoid and while I'll still overheat if it fails shut, I can limp home and still get some flow.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Well nobody else said anything about it so I will. WHY is it overheating? When? Highway, round town, stop and go?
Basics to check now that you have it flushed I will assume good flow.
Radiator seals, they force the air to flow thru the radiator instead of around it
Fan Shroud, the fit between the fan and shroud is critical to proper airflow at low speed, in or out to far will not maximize airflow. Proper fit is with the fan half way inside the lip of the shroud.
Fan Clutch, the fan operates mainly at low speed with a high heat load coming off the radiator, the hotter the air from the dar the more the clutch grabs and the faster the fan turns. If the clutch is bad the fan will rotate more than 1 turn when you shut the motor off
Lower rad hose spring, the spring will rust out sometimes and the hose can colapse, this usually happens at speed rather than idle.
Radiator cap, it might be leaking and causing boilover, get a new one
Thermostat, it sets the minimum operating temp. Once that is reached it should be open nearly all the time, It will only cause overheating if it dies. There is one out there that the default mode is open, can't remember who makes it.
Run thru all that, see where it gets you
Basics to check now that you have it flushed I will assume good flow.
Radiator seals, they force the air to flow thru the radiator instead of around it
Fan Shroud, the fit between the fan and shroud is critical to proper airflow at low speed, in or out to far will not maximize airflow. Proper fit is with the fan half way inside the lip of the shroud.
Fan Clutch, the fan operates mainly at low speed with a high heat load coming off the radiator, the hotter the air from the dar the more the clutch grabs and the faster the fan turns. If the clutch is bad the fan will rotate more than 1 turn when you shut the motor off
Lower rad hose spring, the spring will rust out sometimes and the hose can colapse, this usually happens at speed rather than idle.
Radiator cap, it might be leaking and causing boilover, get a new one
Thermostat, it sets the minimum operating temp. Once that is reached it should be open nearly all the time, It will only cause overheating if it dies. There is one out there that the default mode is open, can't remember who makes it.
Run thru all that, see where it gets you
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 4
From: Va
go with a 180 degree Mr. Gasket Pressure Balanced. Believe they mfg. by Robertshaw.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 10
From: Austin TX
The notion that "it's possible for coolant to flow too quickly" is an old wives' tale. Forget that.
If your cooling system is about maxed out, then you could get by without the stat, especailly in the summer. You don't want your engine to run too long below minimum operating temp. Your engine's oil won't cook off the hydrocarbons and other combustion byproduct which reduce the oil's friction fighting ability.
Here's a good bit from Stewart Components:
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_3.htm
If your cooling system is about maxed out, then you could get by without the stat, especailly in the summer. You don't want your engine to run too long below minimum operating temp. Your engine's oil won't cook off the hydrocarbons and other combustion byproduct which reduce the oil's friction fighting ability.
Here's a good bit from Stewart Components:
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_3.htm
Last edited by 73, Dark Blue 454; Jul 18, 2007 at 12:11 AM.
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