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Is there anyway to adjust warm up time on a crossfire or is it computer controlled? My 82 seems to take an excessive amount of time to warm up. Even now in the dead of summer it can take about 5-6 minutes before the rpms come down enough to shift into gear. It starts out about 1800 rpms and then slowly winds down. Cant kick it off like an old choke/carb car.
ESU
Also check the idle speed control motors, 1 in each throttle body. Sometimes they get varnished up and stick. They also get weak as the get old. Next, make sure there are no vacuum leaks.
Also check the idle speed control motors, 1 in each throttle body. Sometimes they get varnished up and stick. They also get weak as the get old. Next, make sure there are no vacuum leaks.
How would I check them? Remove and clean the varnish? Replace? Although I havent put a gauge on it , vac seems good also. Headlights come up immediately, cruise control holds fine, no rough idle etc.
ESU
T-stat seems to be working fine, based on overall operating temp its a 180 or 190. You thinking stuck open or something?
ESU
It could be stuck open. Actually, 180/190 sounds low for a fully warmed up '82, although I don't know for sure without checking what the 82 calls for. If it takes a while, say more than 5 minutes or so to get to full temp, that could be the problem. The car's computer receives info from the temp sensor indicating what the temp is and until it reaches a certain point, the engine will run in choke mode. That's the problem with guys throwing in lower than OE temp rated thermostats. The end result is a lot of gas is wasted. Anyway, it's easy enough to check and/or replace. If it were my car, I'd replace it (less than $10). Who knows how long it's been in there.
It could be stuck open. Actually, 180/190 sounds low for a fully warmed up '82, although I don't know for sure without checking what the 82 calls for. If it takes a while, say more than 5 minutes or so to get to full temp, that could be the problem. The car's computer receives info from the temp sensor indicating what the temp is and until it reaches a certain point, the engine will run in choke mode. That's the problem with guys throwing in lower than OE temp rated thermostats. The end result is a lot of gas is wasted. Anyway, it's easy enough to check and/or replace. If it were my car, I'd replace it (less than $10). Who knows how long it's been in there.
I'll give that a whirl and see what happens. My 79 called for a 190, not sure what an 82 calls for.
ESU
How would I check them? Remove and clean the varnish? Replace? Although I havent put a gauge on it , vac seems good also. Headlights come up immediately, cruise control holds fine, no rough idle etc.
ESU
I have a tester for them, but you might just need to remove them and clean both the throttle body where they go in, and the pintle on the IAC motors.
whats the idle at start up? Should be around 1200 rpm. Anything higher would suggest a vaccum leak.
You can check the stat on start up. The upper hose should be empty. You should be able to easily squeeze it. Or you can take the cap off the rad. Water/coolant should not be moving.
My guess is the CTS needs replacing. its about $20.
whats the idle at start up? Should be around 1200 rpm. Anything higher would suggest a vaccum leak.
You can check the stat on start up. The upper hose should be empty. You should be able to easily squeeze it. Or you can take the cap off the rad. Water/coolant should not be moving.
My guess is the CTS needs replacing. its about $20.
Jim
Start up idle is 1600 or better and its a good 5 mins to slow down. Will check the stat today or tomorrow depending on weather. Whats A CTS???
ESU
Your car should Idle at cold start at 1200 Rpm. Then it should gradualy decrease to around 600 rpm.
I was idling at cold start around 1500 rpm. when warm in park around 1100-1200 and in gear warm 800-1000.
I did a tune up on my car and it made all the differance in the world. I changed the CTS sensor, the O2 sensor, the plugs, Cleaned the IAC motors, set the TPS sensor, balanaced the throttle bodies, advanced the timing to 10 degrees btc. replaced the PCV valve, and new K&N airfilters. The car still runs rich but idles much lower now. I idle at about 600-650 in gear warm and at about 750 in park or nuetral warm, At cold start Im dead on 1200 rpm for about 4-5 minutes.
Your car should Idle at cold start at 1200 Rpm. Then it should gradualy decrease to around 600 rpm.
I was idling at cold start around 1500 rpm. when warm in park around 1100-1200 and in gear warm 800-1000.
I did a tune up on my car and it made all the differance in the world. I changed the CTS sensor, the O2 sensor, the plugs, Cleaned the IAC motors, set the TPS sensor, balanaced the throttle bodies, advanced the timing to 10 degrees btc. replaced the PCV valve, and new K&N airfilters. The car still runs rich but idles much lower now. I idle at about 600-650 in gear warm and at about 750 in park or nuetral warm, At cold start Im dead on 1200 rpm for about 4-5 minutes.
The car was tuned recently, plugs , wires etc. Not sure about cap, rotor, pcv valve etc. Easy enough to do that. Car runs great other than warming up, plenty of pep, over 20mpg on the hiway, no sputtering, bogging etc. Will order a new thermostat, robert shaw or mr gasket. Still trying to find out if it requires a 190 or not. Then I'll check the paperwork that came with the car, there was mention of a tuneup just need to check about cap, rotor, pcv eetc. If the O2 sensors were abd wouldnt they code? ALso whats the CTS sensor? Easy to change? Expensive?
ESU
Start up idle is 1600 or better and its a good 5 mins to slow down. Will check the stat today or tomorrow depending on weather. Whats A CTS???
ESU
As indicated its the Coolant Temp Sensor. Easy to replace. its at the front of the motor just below the thermostat housing...two wires go to it.
1600 is high...just read your original post...1800 rpm??? What is it when hot and at idle? Sounds like a vaccum leak.
Try gently tightening the bolts that hold the Throttle bodies to the throttle plate. See if it makes a difference. If not check the all the bolts around the throttle plate for tightness. If no difference disconnect the hose to the EGR solenoid from the front TBI and plug the port on the TBI...any difference...if yes could be a faulty EGR solenoid.
No diffrence on any of the above? Disconnect the hose that goes to the feed for the headlight vaccum and cap it. Any difference? If yes you leak is in the headlight system.
There is a hose on the air filter cover that goes to a port on the rear TBI. It controls a valve in the air cleaner cover that regulates air entering on cold start. Is it functional?
Intake off. Look down the port the IAC's seat in. any carbon build up? If yes get some decarbonization spray cleaner. follow the instructions. Decarbonize those openings from the top. Decarbonize through the throttle bodies. The say the cleaner could damage the IAC's if the liquid flows back into them so I like to park up hill when i do it.
The car was tuned recently, plugs , wires etc. Not sure about cap, rotor, pcv valve etc. Easy enough to do that. Car runs great other than warming up, plenty of pep, over 20mpg on the hiway, no sputtering, bogging etc. Will order a new thermostat, robert shaw or mr gasket. Still trying to find out if it requires a 190 or not. Then I'll check the paperwork that came with the car, there was mention of a tuneup just need to check about cap, rotor, pcv eetc. If the O2 sensors were abd wouldnt they code? ALso whats the CTS sensor? Easy to change? Expensive?
ESU
CTS is cheap maybe $20 and easy to change. Only new type is available you'll have to cut and splice the wires.
On start up. O2 does not do anything. Runs on CTS and MAP. O2 kicks in later. If its on its way out no codes will come up.
As indicated its the Coolant Temp Sensor. Easy to replace. its at the front of the motor just below the thermostat housing...two wires go to it.
1600 is high...just read your original post...1800 rpm??? What is it when hot and at idle? Sounds like a vaccum leak.
Try gently tightening the bolts that hold the Throttle bodies to the throttle plate. See if it makes a difference. If not check the all the bolts around the throttle plate for tightness. If no difference disconnect the hose to the EGR solenoid from the front TBI and plug the port on the TBI...any difference...if yes could be a faulty EGR solenoid.
No diffrence on any of the above? Disconnect the hose that goes to the feed for the headlight vaccum and cap it. Any difference? If yes you leak is in the headlight system.
There is a hose on the air filter cover that goes to a port on the rear TBI. It controls a valve in the air cleaner cover that regulates air entering on cold start. Is it functional?
Intake off. Look down the port the IAC's seat in. any carbon build up? If yes get some decarbonization spray cleaner. follow the instructions. Decarbonize those openings from the top. Decarbonize through the throttle bodies. The say the cleaner could damage the IAC's if the liquid flows back into them so I like to park up hill when i do it.
Jim
1600-1800 depending on start up, 800 or so when warm. Will check for vac leaks but like I said, headlight response is immediate but anything is possible. I'll add a CTS to the list, no one has a stock style replacement? I hate those universal ones.
ESU
IAC is Idle Air control. One on each TBI with wires plugging into them. Both identical. There is a pin each on that goes in and out and controls the amount of air going into the throttle bodies.