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Headers vs. Electricity

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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 09:25 PM
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Default Headers vs. Electricity

I want to relocate my fuse system to the engine bay where I can get to it without having to look like a Buddhist monk that's been run through a laundry ringer. I grabbed a really nice underhood fuse/relay box from a Lincoln Mark VIII when I was nabbing a fan at the boneyard. The issue: the spot where I want to mount the box will leave approximately 1" clearance between the outside edge of the box and the headers...maybe as much as 1.25". Will this be too close? Do I need to wrap the headers? If I put wrap on, how can I seal it to keep water from getting in there and rusting the headers?

Second - where can I find a multi-wire bulkhead connector to replace the stock fusebox/firewall connector?
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 09:38 PM
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IMO that is too close to the heat. Find some way to protect the fuse box from the header. Take a square of alum plate and have it coated the same coating used on headers to keep the heat in.
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 09:47 PM
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I feel you on the fuse box location. Trying to get around my clutch is a royal pain.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 03:22 AM
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I scratched my *** plenty looking all OVER my car for a suitable easy to get at place for the damn fuse block, back 6 years ago when rewiring the car....and found nothing better, so I gave in and left it alone...I did rewire the entire underhood and pass compartment though.....

IF the fuse block/clips are clean and unrusted, I would leave them alone, it's a huge PIA to change out....
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
I scratched my *** plenty looking all OVER my car for a suitable easy to get at place for the damn fuse block, back 6 years ago when rewiring the car....and found nothing better, so I gave in and left it alone...I did rewire the entire underhood and pass compartment though.....

IF the fuse block/clips are clean and unrusted, I would leave them alone, it's a huge PIA to change out....
(not about scratching my azz)
It seems it would be a ton of work to go to.Once all the electric issues are fixed you shouldnt be going back to the fuse box very often.
#1*But one thought might be to leave the fuse box loose from the bulkhead so you can pull it down a little to gain easier access until the problems are resolved.*
#2Another thought and I'm pulling this out of my azz -could you modify the firewall at the bulkhead to allow the "fusebox bulkhead assembly" to move and turn on the existing wiring to gain easier access?
#1 would be easiest and could be resecured with say velcro instead of the original screws if you wanted quicker access.just a thought
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 08:45 AM
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I do NOT run a heater. I removed the entire heater assembly and plated over the hole in the firewall. I then made up another aluminum plate mounting a bank of relays and fuses. I carefully marked all the relays with their respective fuses and proceeded to wire these in place of the existing fuse panel.
I can quickly remove the cover panel on passengers side to expose all the relays and fuses. I always carry a short jumper wire with alligator snaps on the end.
If I run into a problem anywhere I can quickly short out the relay and fuse to limp home.
I also mounted my MSD ignition, my coil and my ford starter solenoid right there to keep them cool and make wiring them in simple
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 09:15 AM
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I used the space behind the passenger dash panel similar to Norval, but was able to retain the heater box.
There I mounted the ignition box, coil, junction block for fans and electronics etc.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 12:09 PM
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For my LS engine swap I removed the washer fluid resivour and cruise transducer to mount my relay/fuse box. I used the transducer mounting bracket to mount it. Its a clean install but not exactly easier than the factory fuse location. Im wondering why its a problem anyway? Do you pop that many fuses?
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by hosspowerinc
For my LS engine swap I removed the washer fluid resivour and cruise transducer to mount my relay/fuse box. I used the transducer mounting bracket to mount it. Its a clean install but not exactly easier than the factory fuse location. Im wondering why its a problem anyway? Do you pop that many fuses?

WHICH is the foundation of my ultimate decision to leave it alone....
clean up the harness, bypass the bulkhead connector except for headlight wiring, and run direct....this car is not a assembly line operation anymore...
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by hosspowerinc
For my LS engine swap I removed the washer fluid resivour and cruise transducer to mount my relay/fuse box. I used the transducer mounting bracket to mount it. Its a clean install but not exactly easier than the factory fuse location. Im wondering why its a problem anyway? Do you pop that many fuses?
That's pretty much exactly the spot where I want to mount my box. I took the cruise bracket off, I'd like to mount it to the inner fender in that gap forward of the master cylinder. Have you noticed any heat issues in that location?

I don't pop many fuses, but I always end up with glass in my eyes when I do, since I have to lay on my back to get to the panel and those stupid glass fuses always break on me. I'm adding some circuits to the car (and I'm going to add more when I go to fuel injection), so having everything in one spot would be nice. This box is designed to be connected directly to the alternator, with about six relay circuits and 20+ fuse circuits split about evenly between normal and maxi fuses. I just want to be certain that it isn't going to burn up on me that close to the exhaust.

Last edited by I'm Batman; Jul 19, 2007 at 01:57 PM.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 03:04 PM
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IMO, anything like a fuse block, computer, etc needs be in the pass compartment, heat and moisture are primary enemies of electrical/tronic gear....fuse contacts, interconnects....

anything not weathertite under the hood is begging failures...them weathertite connectors on modern cars aint there for no reason....

beeleemee,I been at this crap for decades now....
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
IMO, anything like a fuse block, computer, etc needs be in the pass compartment, heat and moisture are primary enemies of electrical/tronic gear....fuse contacts, interconnects....

anything not weathertite under the hood is begging failures...them weathertite connectors on modern cars aint there for no reason....

beeleemee,I been at this crap for decades now....
Gene, it's an OEM underhood fuse block...
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 04:55 PM
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Stick it in the glove compartment. :P
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 05:21 PM
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I'll be rewiring my '77 this winter and I really was thinking about the center rear compartment, other than the long run of heavy gauge wires, I don't see a problem with that. Am I missing something?
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 05:21 PM
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No glove box on a 77.

As far as heat, the car isnt together yet but I cant see it getting too hot right there. Mine is about 4" from the headers though so not as close as yours.
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Rab16
I'll be rewiring my '77 this winter and I really was thinking about the center rear compartment, other than the long run of heavy gauge wires, I don't see a problem with that. Am I missing something?
No, it's a perfectly good spot. I just wanted it in the engine bay since for my electric fan, headlight relays and the under-hood computer I'll be installing for my FI conversion.

I still need a multi-wire bulkhead connector...does anyone make such a thing?

I think I'm going to wrap the headers to cut down on heat damage. They've already been painted on the tubes, so if I seal the wrap with paint I think they'll be relatively well-protected from rust.
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