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Squeek . . .squeek . . .squeek,squeek,squeek HELP!!!

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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 01:34 AM
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Default Squeek . . .squeek . . .squeek,squeek,squeek HELP!!!

Ok, here's the deal. I love Vettes, but still dont know much about the mechanical aspect of them. Thats were you guys come in! I've been noticing a high pitched squeek which I believe is coming from the right rear side. When I travel slow, the squeek is slow, the faster I move, the faster the squeek gets. It started soft, but now it loud enough that haven't been able to drive the Vette. (Started a couple months ago)

I know its nearly impossible to diagnose a problem over the Internet without inspecting the car, but I will be taking it in to get looked at, but I want to at least sound like I know what I am talking about, and have somewhat of an idea as to what the noise is so I dont get ripped off. If you have an idea as to what is wrong, can you give me an idea what I should expect to pay (or at least an idea of how many hours the repair should take for a shop to repair?)

Oh yeah, also when jacked up, I can push the top of the tire back about a quarter of an inch or so. . . I cannot push it side to side at all (if this helps)

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 07:07 AM
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the parts to look at are U-Joints on the half shafts, Wheel Bearings and differential side yoke play. Yours sounds luke yokes, but some of the more experienced guys will chime in
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 08:45 AM
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here's something you can do before you bring the car into the shop. jack up the rear and turn the right rear tire until you hear the noise. move it back and forth then mark the inside of the rotor so you can take off the tire and check the brake pads to see if you have a high spot on the rotor.
you may need new rotors & pads on the rear.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 79L82owner
Ok, here's the deal. I love Vettes, but still dont know much about the mechanical aspect of them. Thats were you guys come in! I've been noticing a high pitched squeek which I believe is coming from the right rear side. When I travel slow, the squeek is slow, the faster I move, the faster the squeek gets. It started soft, but now it loud enough that haven't been able to drive the Vette. (Started a couple months ago)

I know its nearly impossible to diagnose a problem over the Internet without inspecting the car, but I will be taking it in to get looked at, but I want to at least sound like I know what I am talking about, and have somewhat of an idea as to what the noise is so I dont get ripped off. If you have an idea as to what is wrong, can you give me an idea what I should expect to pay (or at least an idea of how many hours the repair should take for a shop to repair?)

Oh yeah, also when jacked up, I can push the top of the tire back about a quarter of an inch or so. . . I cannot push it side to side at all (if this helps)

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
well there is something going on there cause the tire shouldnt move at
all in the manor you describe, you may have more than one thing going on there

U-joints usually make a clunking sound when they start to go, and yours may be just starting to go bad, I would inspect for sure.....

from what you describe, the squeaking sounds more brake related as stated above.


good luck


Tim
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 09:50 AM
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Probably just rotor runnout, and the pad is squeaking on the pin. Slightly apply the brakes, does it go away?
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 11:01 AM
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Broken E-Brake spring getting ground up can sound that way.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 12:12 PM
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I'd bet with 95% certainty, it's your half-shaft u-joints. Jack up and support the rear of the car, hold onto the half-shaft and see if you can have someone rotate the tire a few degrees back and forth. You are looking for play between the axle and yokes, at the u-joint.

The squeak or creak you hear is the load that's applied to the shaft as a result of worn bearings or end caps. It gets amplified through the hollow aluminum half-shaft. If you replace the joints, use nothing but Spicer u-joints!
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 01:30 PM
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I'll go with the e-brake or the wear tabs are hitting early.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 01:52 PM
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Thanks guys I knew you'd pull through on this one. I'm waiting for my brother to get done with work- he's gonna spin the wheel for me, so I can check for play.

As for the brakes, I had new rotors, calipers/pads put on last fall. I took it for a test drive just now. When I put my foot on the brake, the sound does go away.

Also, when driving slowly down the alley, I slowly pulled the e-brake (lets just say, I would have slowed down faster by holding an umbrella out the T-top.)
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 02:27 PM
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Also, remember that if the rear suspension is "hanging free" the angle of the half shafts is so severe you will likely get interference at the u-joints and it will feel rough when trying to "spin" the wheels. I agree with others that it sounds like a pad rubbing on the rotor or squeaking on the brake pin. A slight film of high temperature grease on the pin will fix that. The slop at top and bottom can be a combination of many wear factors but I would think the shop that did the brake job would have taken the opportunity to make a boat payment if it was a bearing or if the side yokes were excessively worn. Good luck.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 09:05 PM
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Just had the same exact problem. It is the runout on the rear rotors. Use a dial indicator to find the low spot in the rotor. Then get some brass sheets in various thicknesses. The cut out little circles that will fit over the wheel studs. The put the brass circles on the wheels studs in the low spot. Then put the rotor back on and check the runount again and do this untill there is less that 3 thousandths of runout over the entire rotor.

danny
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Danny456
Just had the same exact problem. It is the runout on the rear rotors. Use a dial indicator to find the low spot in the rotor. Then get some brass sheets in various thicknesses. The cut out little circles that will fit over the wheel studs. The put the brass circles on the wheels studs in the low spot. Then put the rotor back on and check the runount again and do this untill there is less that 3 thousandths of runout over the entire rotor.

danny
I agree had the same happen to mine found the low spot on the rotor and cut out a coke can and placed on the stud. Squeek gone!!!
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 11:44 PM
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Just out of curiosity, why did you shim your rotor instead of turning it?

Originally Posted by vette blue
I agree had the same happen to mine found the low spot on the rotor and cut out a coke can and placed on the stud. Squeek gone!!!
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