How is this engine 500hp..


Specs.
Engine Specifications:
·Horsepower- 500
·Torque- 480 ft/lbs
·Compression Ratio- 10.7:1
·Recommended Fuel- 92 octane
·Max Recommended RPM- 6000
·Block- 4-bolt iron
·Crankshaft- Nodular iron
·Pistons- Forged with coated skirts
·Connecting Rods- Forged I-beam steel
·Camshaft- Hydraulic roller
Valve lift (intake/exhaust):.463"/.570"
Duration @ .050" (intake/exhaust): 238deg/242deg
·Rocker arms- Roller 1.5:1 ratio fully roller ·Cylinder Heads- Aluminum, hand worked
·Bore x Stroke- 4.03" x 3.75"
·Intake Manifold- Single plane aluminum
·Warranty- 12 month/12,000 miles





http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html
Last edited by 63mako; Jul 31, 2007 at 10:10 PM.
I think most TV and magazine dyno test results are BS. 500hp from a dummy 383 for $4000 is not likely. Box stock 200cc heads on most of them too. I usually use a 85-90% factor with magazine stories. 400hp doesn't sell mags, 500+ does.
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Last edited by 63mako; Aug 1, 2007 at 11:37 PM.





I have driven real LT1's from 70. My local Buddy has an improved 71 that would just spank the originals. Heads and spring technology is what they did not have in 1970. One of the first things we did back then was to pull off the heavy valve spring rotators and spring caps and you could get another 500 rpm before valve float.
People that praise those old 302, 327, 350's need a reality check.
I beg to differ. My recent engine build project pretty much accomplished just that. Specs are:
383ci 4 bolt 010 block, forged internals/except hyper pistons, Comp 286HR hydraulic roller .560/.560 lift with 230/230 duration 2 .050, heads are edelbrock RPM aluminum heads with a full comp port/polish/valve job by Louthans competition shop, 7 qt milodon kick out pan with hv55 pump, ARP main studs with windage tray.....lots of other expensive little power making goodies.
The engine has a fairly radical idle, but i can easily get it to idle at 600 rpm, Power comes at off idle and pulls hard past 6000rpm with no valve float or bounce. temp stays right at 180 degrees. i can cruise it at just off idle and the engine does not hesistate, surge or lurch.
All of the streetable manner you would want in a daily driver, Until you get on it. I already snapped 2 u-joints.
However, I have probably close to $7000 in the engine even though I did all the work (except for machine work on the block and competition job on the heads).

btw; CR is just under 11:1 and it runs fine on super 93


383ci 4 bolt 010 block, forged internals/except hyper pistons, Comp 286HR hydraulic roller .560/.560 lift with 230/230 duration 2 .050, heads are edelbrock RPM aluminum heads with a full comp port/polish/valve job by Louthans competition shop, 7 qt milodon kick out pan with hv55 pump, ARP main studs with windage tray.....lots of other expensive little power making goodies.
The engine has a fairly radical idle, but i can easily get it to idle at 600 rpm, Power comes at off idle and pulls hard past 6000rpm with no valve float or bounce. temp stays right at 180 degrees. i can cruise it at just off idle and the engine does not hesistate, surge or lurch.
All of the streetable manner you would want in a daily driver, Until you get on it. I already snapped 2 u-joints.
However, I have probably close to $7000 in the engine even though I did all the work (except for machine work on the block and competition job on the heads).

btw; CR is just under 11:1 and it runs fine on super 93






There is sometimes a big difference in what we think we are making and what the dyno shows, I believe there was a recent thread on this
I am definitely not trying to say it resembles a new car in ANY way. It has a serious rumble and lope to it. but it does start with a turn of the key and no gas (once it's warmed up.)















