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How is this engine 500hp..

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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 09:34 PM
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Default How is this engine 500hp..

Saw this motor installed on Hot Rod TV in a Year One box Camaro. It idled like my wifes Trailblazer. Nice and smooth with no lope. How do they do it?

Specs.
Engine Specifications:
·Horsepower- 500
·Torque- 480 ft/lbs
·Compression Ratio- 10.7:1
·Recommended Fuel- 92 octane
·Max Recommended RPM- 6000
·Block- 4-bolt iron
·Crankshaft- Nodular iron
·Pistons- Forged with coated skirts
·Connecting Rods- Forged I-beam steel
·Camshaft- Hydraulic roller
Valve lift (intake/exhaust):.463"/.570"
Duration @ .050" (intake/exhaust): 238deg/242deg
·Rocker arms- Roller 1.5:1 ratio fully roller ·Cylinder Heads- Aluminum, hand worked
·Bore x Stroke- 4.03" x 3.75"
·Intake Manifold- Single plane aluminum
·Warranty- 12 month/12,000 miles
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 10:01 PM
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Wide LSA probably 114. Reduced overlap smooths them out a lot. Flattens the tourque curve too, less peak torque but bumps up each side of the peak. 500 HP out of a 10.7 to 1 hydraulic roller motor with good heads is pretty doable. Check out combo #17 on this site. Very similar build and cam duration.
http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html

Last edited by 63mako; Jul 31, 2007 at 10:10 PM.
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 10:46 PM
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If the heads flow good then yes it could put out near 500HP, not sure the idle would be very smooth though
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 11:14 PM
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Roller cams are smoother for a given duration
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 08:18 PM
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Only in dreams,
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 08:25 PM
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A little off topic, but I'd like a nickel for every time I've been told "My small block makes 500 horses." Man, I'd be sitting pretty.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 08:52 PM
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It is a 383 with aluminum heads and a pretty hot H-Roller with single plane
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 09:02 PM
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You left out the most important part: cylinder heads.

I think most TV and magazine dyno test results are BS. 500hp from a dummy 383 for $4000 is not likely. Box stock 200cc heads on most of them too. I usually use a 85-90% factor with magazine stories. 400hp doesn't sell mags, 500+ does.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 09:31 PM
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Because the lsa is probably 114 and higher.look at a new z06 cam its probably around 117.500 is very doable in a ls motor and nice idle.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 10:45 PM
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I hear you but that is 427 cubic inches. The 500 hp street 383 does not exist in my book and not one with a 12 month warranty. Race 383 a different story.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 11:06 PM
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If that discription wpuld be accurate for a 500 HP engine then what would a 70 LT1 produce? Maybe the first 600 HP small block and we didn`t even know it and has been around for the last 38 years...i
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
If that discription wpuld be accurate for a 500 HP engine then what would a 70 LT1 produce? Maybe the first 600 HP small block and we didn`t even know it and has been around for the last 38 years...i
Roller cams with their fast ramp rates and heads with modern combustion chamber design, larger ports, good flowing exhaust, modern intake design and better carburation have all combined to make it much easier to produce streetable power with lower compression. The LT1 had small ports (160 cc I think), inefficient combustion chamber design, iron heads, stock manifolds and less cubic inches and was conservativly rated 370 HP @ 6000 RPM. To run 11 to 1 Comp with iron heads GM had to design the cam with a real late closing on the intake valve and lots of overlap to reduce DCR that hurt the power production. It only had .458 and .484 lift. That same LT1 with the above components could easily be over 450 HP.

Last edited by 63mako; Aug 1, 2007 at 11:37 PM.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 08:31 AM
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Valve lift (intake/exhaust):.463"/.570"

I don"t understand the lift unless thats a typing mistake
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Roller cams with their fast ramp rates and heads with modern combustion chamber design, larger ports, good flowing exhaust, modern intake design and better carburation have all combined to make it much easier to produce streetable power with lower compression. The LT1 had small ports (160 cc I think), inefficient combustion chamber design, iron heads, stock manifolds and less cubic inches and was conservativly rated 370 HP @ 6000 RPM. To run 11 to 1 Comp with iron heads GM had to design the cam with a real late closing on the intake valve and lots of overlap to reduce DCR that hurt the power production. It only had .458 and .484 lift. That same LT1 with the above components could easily be over 450 HP.
: i agree

I have driven real LT1's from 70. My local Buddy has an improved 71 that would just spank the originals. Heads and spring technology is what they did not have in 1970. One of the first things we did back then was to pull off the heavy valve spring rotators and spring caps and you could get another 500 rpm before valve float.

People that praise those old 302, 327, 350's need a reality check.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Budman78
I hear you but that is 427 cubic inches. The 500 hp street 383 does not exist in my book and not one with a 12 month warranty. Race 383 a different story.

I beg to differ. My recent engine build project pretty much accomplished just that. Specs are:

383ci 4 bolt 010 block, forged internals/except hyper pistons, Comp 286HR hydraulic roller .560/.560 lift with 230/230 duration 2 .050, heads are edelbrock RPM aluminum heads with a full comp port/polish/valve job by Louthans competition shop, 7 qt milodon kick out pan with hv55 pump, ARP main studs with windage tray.....lots of other expensive little power making goodies.

The engine has a fairly radical idle, but i can easily get it to idle at 600 rpm, Power comes at off idle and pulls hard past 6000rpm with no valve float or bounce. temp stays right at 180 degrees. i can cruise it at just off idle and the engine does not hesistate, surge or lurch.

All of the streetable manner you would want in a daily driver, Until you get on it. I already snapped 2 u-joints.

However, I have probably close to $7000 in the engine even though I did all the work (except for machine work on the block and competition job on the heads).



btw; CR is just under 11:1 and it runs fine on super 93
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 12:44 PM
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Dyno sheet please. Not doubting you, just would like to see what it put down. The engine on Hot Rod idled like a new car and started with a quite turn of the key. No pumping the gas, he didn't even have a throttle cable hooked up.

Originally Posted by oregonsharkman
I beg to differ. My recent engine build project pretty much accomplished just that. Specs are:

383ci 4 bolt 010 block, forged internals/except hyper pistons, Comp 286HR hydraulic roller .560/.560 lift with 230/230 duration 2 .050, heads are edelbrock RPM aluminum heads with a full comp port/polish/valve job by Louthans competition shop, 7 qt milodon kick out pan with hv55 pump, ARP main studs with windage tray.....lots of other expensive little power making goodies.

The engine has a fairly radical idle, but i can easily get it to idle at 600 rpm, Power comes at off idle and pulls hard past 6000rpm with no valve float or bounce. temp stays right at 180 degrees. i can cruise it at just off idle and the engine does not hesistate, surge or lurch.

All of the streetable manner you would want in a daily driver, Until you get on it. I already snapped 2 u-joints.

However, I have probably close to $7000 in the engine even though I did all the work (except for machine work on the block and competition job on the heads).



btw; CR is just under 11:1 and it runs fine on super 93
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Budman78
Dyno sheet please. Not doubting you, just would like to see what it put down. The engine on Hot Rod idled like a new car and started with a quite turn of the key. No pumping the gas, he didn't even have a throttle cable hooked up.
I agree take it to a chassis dyno, you need to put down over 400 RWHP

There is sometimes a big difference in what we think we are making and what the dyno shows, I believe there was a recent thread on this
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 01:25 PM
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Mine has 409 RWHP with a solid cam. It is a pretty large solid cam and it idles at 900 rpm at best. It is definitly not a tame mild mannered street motor but get it above 3000 rpm and hold on. I do have an extra 2 cubic inches due to a .040 overbore 385 ci. It is possible with good heads and airflow into and out of them but it is not that easy to get. Roller cams definitly help out.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Budman78
Dyno sheet please. Not doubting you, just would like to see what it put down. The engine on Hot Rod idled like a new car and started with a quite turn of the key. No pumping the gas, he didn't even have a throttle cable hooked up.
yeah, i know, without proof i could just be full of BS. No dyno sheet yet, and with my broken u-joints, a new job and buying a house it could be a ways out. although i do plan to hit the dragstrip with it as soon as i can. With the old 383 i was able to put down 12.8 @111 on street tires. This motor is definitely stronger and smoother overall. My old 383 was rated at 440hp @ 5900 rpm.

I am definitely not trying to say it resembles a new car in ANY way. It has a serious rumble and lope to it. but it does start with a turn of the key and no gas (once it's warmed up.)
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 02:17 PM
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I posted that PhotoBucket of my 383 firing up. I have a simular duration cam as what is in this post with higher lift and 112 LSA. I also never did dyno time, But I did do a string of 11.70's on a 90 degree day with @1.8 flat 60 foot times on a greasy track that required short shifting the 1-2 and then flooring it with a 700R4
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