That might be possible but considering the condition of the spring mount thats been painted over, the need for new spring bolts and cushions, and the spring appearing to have more arch on the pass side for some reason, I would agree with Kidvette. Buy a VB&P spring with the mounts and endlinks and put this project to rest.

 

after reading the post i want to add this :

I have 79 with 550's up front and the 7 leaf in the rear with the 10" bolts.

With the nut on the rear bolts down all the way and no modification to the front springs the car seems to sit at normal ride heigth. Kinda strange since the front VBP springs should sit about 1" lower according to specs. The rear should also sit lower seen the position of the nut.

I was hoping for this effect so that the car would have an aerodynamic look.

Any idea what could cause this.

May I expect to springs to settle so much that it would indeed lower the car ?

Thanks

 

Alright guys I pulled into my garage forward for once and then looked at the rear of the car sitting on level ground and the spring appears to be even on both sides I think it was an optical illusion from my unlevel driveway or it may have even been alittle crooked the car needs new shocks pretty bad..... My question now is I am going to attempt to just change the bolts first before i scrap the spring. It would seem kinds foolish not to try it first... my question is where can I get new longer bolts? Is there someone where to order them from... If not I was thinking about seeing if the fastenel guy from work could get them for me. Also how owuld i go about changing the bolts cause i know you can not just lossen them cause the spring is under fairly high tension

 

Pretty easy to locate. Try VB&P, Guldstrand, VanSteel, even Eckler's or Mid-America... Any of these probably have the 8" ones you likely need.

 

I would buy the 10 inch bolts from VBP along with poly bushings/cushions once installed fill the gas tank up drive it a bit to settle it down ,,,then you can cut the excess off the long 10inch bolt once you have the ride height you want. Measure your gap between the tire and fender to get them even. Each side will need more or less adjustment as most cars seem to be higher on one side or the other.
You can also measure frame to ground at four points to see if frame is bent or twisted

 

Our springs are manufactured with varying arch styles as well as spring rates. Depending on your driving style, what you hope to accomplish with the new spring and whether you take your Corvette to the track, will determine your arch style and spring rate.

I believe the other springs are made with one arch style and have only two or three rates to choose from.

The process that we use to make our springs enables us to set you up in just the perfect spring for you.

When discussing our fixed rate springs, we equate the 300# rear spring to a stock, smooth, soft, comfortable touring ride for the C-2's and early C-3's (63-67) because they are lighter.

We equate our 330# spring to a stock, soft, touring ride for the later C-3's. If you prefer the tighter, sportier feel and have a later C-3, then we would recommend our 360#. It is suitable for street and some light autocrossing.

We also have a 420# spring which we recommend for track only applications.

All of our rear fiberglass springs are 1" shorter than stock in the total length and come with all new mounting hardware. The center plate and bolts as well as our longer than stock end mounting bolts. These bolts are 8" long and have 4-1/2" of threading (stock is 6-1/2" long with 2" of threading). Our bolts gives you 2-1/2" of additional play area to adjust the ride height.

We also have a rear dual mount spring system that gives you spring rate adjustability as well as the ride height. I hope this info. has helped answer some of the questions you all asked.

If you have any other questions or would like to discuss our springs further, please do not hesitate to email me directly at Pattie@VBandP.com or call toll free at 1-800-237-9991.

Best Regards,
Pattie
VBP