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Outside of the Chilton manual, which isnt that detailed for power window switch replacement, does
anyone know where I can get detailed instructions on power window replacement?
Would also be greatly appreciated if anyone knows of manual or book
that has step by step instructions for a novice Vette owner on total interior upgrades and repairs...THANKS
Chilton manual sux, get a GM service manual for an 82 specifically. Its not much different than my 81. You may also need an AIM (Assembly Instruction Manual)
What do you need to know on the windows? Switch or door internals?
[QUOTE=SIXFOOTER;1561328968]get a GM service manual for an 82 specifically. Its not much different than my 81. QUOTE]
best manual I've ever seen for my Vette, even I can follow the instructions It's not what you could call cheap, but once you start working on the Vette it'll soon pay for itself in time saved (& bits not broken!).
:cheers
If your window switch is not working well. Pry the tabs up on the bottom, and you can just take out the innards, and simply clean them up with contact cleaner/steel wool. Worked great for me saved me $20. Just make sure you note which way the switch goes back in, I forgot and ended up needing to make new tabs. But the switch still worked great after the cleaning.
Thank you! So I can pop them out w/o having to remove the console
plate?
You MAY be able to get to them by removing the side covers, but you'd have to be a contortionist to get to them. I had a problem with the passenger window switch and, getting really hacked off with continually removing the console, I sort of did what a kungfu mastah did, but cheated. I got some electrical contact cleaner spray & just soaked the top of the switch in it until there was a pool of liquid on it. Then, with ign off, I sat & wiggled the switch for a couple of mins. The result is that the window now opens as it should, but I have to put slight downwards pressure on the switch to get it to close. Call me Bubba, but it now works
remove seat, remove side covers; find someone with small hands or also unscrew schifter console (6 bolts or so, don't forget to unscrew from center console) so you can lift it about 1,5". Then your can replace it if you need to. Simple way to test is use the other switch to see if the window works with that one (works in reverse).
Take out the console; it’s not that hard to do! If you do a good repair of the switch, it should last you a long time.
The switch outer shell is pot metal and it has staked sides that hold the contact switch in place. The inside contact points on the switch will corrode or get burnt like an old set of distributor points. If you remove the inner switch from the outer shell you can take an old point file or 100 grit sanding paper and clean them up by pressing down on the contact while drawing the file over it. This will create an even contact point too! It’s about an hour fix and should solve the problem. You can test the switch when done by passing continuity through the contact points before installing it back in the car.
Another issue when inside the switch is to check the metal that the contact is attached too! This metal is also the spring that makes the contacts separate when you let off the switch. Make sure you have enough tension on (you can tweak them if needed) it to make a good flat connection. If you used a point file this should not be a problem, but if the contacts are not flat they will burn off faster. If the contacts are missing from the switch, then it’s new switch time.
You can test the motor by jumping across the connector from the power wire to either the up or down side. The switch has multiple holes in it, but only three are used for electrical purposes. One wire for power in, and wires for power out either up or down.
This may be a good opprotunity to improve yourr interior. If your shift console is old, scratched and the chrome strip is worn off now is a good time to replace it as well as the switch.
Here's how to remove the console. Take off both console side covers. They should be held on by 2 or 3 philips head screws that may be hidden in the carpet. The one toward the rear of the car are harder to find and you may have to compress the seat foam to get at these.
At the point where the vinyl cover for the emergency brake handle meets the plastic shift console on the underside you will find a bolt on each side that I believe is a 5/16th these will need to be removed. Note: Most old shift consoles are cracked in this area.
AT the front of the shift console just below the radio is also a bolt on each side. These bolts tie the gauge plate to the shift console. Also expect the plastic to be cracked in this area.
Next there is a cable for the heater control that needs to be disconnected.
The last is to remove the screw type bolts one on each side that hold the shift console to the mounting brackets.
The shift plate should be able to come out and you will be able to remove the connectors for the windows and the cigarette lighter and the lamp for the gear selector.
At this point take out the window switches and mark the bad one for reference. Use the good one in the bad ones place. If it still does not work then go after the connector and the contacts on the connector. The connector for the windows and door locks were of very poor design from the factory. If the Connector is bad cut it out and resolder and shrink tube a new on in.
Also if the console side covers that have the carpet on them are worn out this may also be a good time to attend to them. Let me know and I can help you with that also.
I hope this is of some help to you. I hope I didn't miss anything as I did this two years ago and I'm going by memory. Good luck with your project.
Steve