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I am installing my new jet hot treated dynomax headers from summit and have run into a minor problem. I cannot clear the oil dipstick tube. Pulling my dipstick tube involves dropping my oil pan. My inner bubba say's that is way to hard and all I need to do cut a little slot between 5 and 7 tube and no more problem (see pic. black tape marks the spot bubba want's to cut). I want to do this right. My old headers did not have a connecting piece between the tubes and worked fine. What would you do?
"A 75 engine I have apart is similar to my 69 engine in that the D-stick tube has a double flared end that comes up from underneith. The flared end fits in a recession in the block along the pan rail and is held in place by the oil pan. There is only one way to get it out, and that is to drop the pan. On removing it, the tube comes very close to hitting the outside bolt on the second main cap in front of the oil filter. Once you drop the pan and gasket the tube will slide right out."
After spending some time trying to remove my dipstick tube, I think my 76 is similar.
Should be able to twist it with some pliers and pull it out. If you're worried about marring the tube, tape the area where you'll be grabbing it with the pliers or vice grips.
Does it require removal of the entire section or will a notch work?
Funny how a header made for our cars wouldn't have the dipstick notch in it. All the engines have one & on our vintage cars the ds is always on the left.
Since it doesn't look like you have a rust problem where you live, I'd go ahead an make the cut in the header brace.
Actually, I'd drop the pan and get rid of that dipstick tube. It's just bolts and a gasket. I'd put the pipes on. Then I'd get a real dipstick that goes in from the top like God intended and you won't have to worry about it in the future. That's a Vette, not a Toyota...
Should be able to twist it with some pliers and pull it out. If you're worried about marring the tube, tape the area where you'll be grabbing it with the pliers or vice grips.
I twisted on it till I thought it was going to break. I don't think it will pull from the top.
Looking at the curvature of the dipstick, I don't see any way that could have been installed from underneath.
When you twist the tube, is it spinning in the block, or is the metal giving? Also, be sure your vice grips are on the tube as close to the block as possible.
I've owned many driverside dipstick blocks over the years, and the tubes all pulled out from the top.
If you're still unsure, post over in the C1 forum and get their input.
Looking at the curvature of the dipstick, I don't see any way that could have been installed from underneath.
When you twist the tube, is it spinning in the block, or is the metal giving? Also, be sure your vice grips are on the tube as close to the block as possible.
I've owned many driverside dipstick blocks over the years, and the tubes all pulled out from the top.
If you're still unsure, post over in the C1 forum and get their input.
Good luck.
Wes
Does look like it should pull from the top. Well, I am not going to cut my header support. Maybe, I will use the sawzall on the dipstick tube (not serious). I will get it out of the way somehow.
When you look at the flange, you can see that it cannot be driven into the block. It will pull out. How easily or not is another thing. Have you tried to install your headers from under neath the car... may want to remove your oil filter and give it a shot.
I'm gonna post a pic for you... go ahead and put the sawzall away.
Last edited by Uesu; Aug 4, 2007 at 03:43 PM.
Reason: Added pic of the dipstick
Glad you got it out, I just spotted this thread and was going to comment. Any dip stick tube that comes in from the pan side will be straight. Chevy used different tubes and the bend with a flange stop should have been the tip that it pulled out. All's well that ends well, and I sure wouldn't want to have seen you cut that header flange.