Keep in mind with overbores it's not just the wall thickness or casting quality - there's also core shift where the bore is not concentric with the casting so you end up with thinner walls on one side. A sonic test is required before any overbore, and definitely with an .060. A good machine shop can adjust the bore centers slightly if needed...but sometimes you just get a gnarly casting that just won't take that much overbore. Note that you can always sleeve a cylinder for about $250 if you need to, but this typically takes it to standard bore. For rare engines, wierdness is sometimes required

IMHO, for anything you're going to beat on .040 is the max.

I honestly don't understand why you're looking for the right date code. If you don't have the original engine, finding something with the right code and then restamping the block doesn't make it original. I'd consider myself free of the need to restore it at this point and put any darn engine you want in.

 

Your right, it will never be the original engine again and I am not trying to make it that way. Trying to do that takes all the fun out of it, it's too hard. My car is so messed up, not changed, but messed up, it is not a good candidate for restoration. I would never be able to afford to do that anyway. I currently have about a 200hp engine in it. It was originally a 350hp car. Thats probably enough for me so why not put the right engine in it? I am in no hurry to find the engine because it may be 2 years before I even start that part of the project. So why not wait for the right cast date to come along? I don't want to use my block, whatever it is, because I want to drive my car while I take my time on the other engine.
I have grown fond of this car as it has a few unique things about it. It has sat or been abused for probably 20 years. I want to make it better and get my thumb print on it and call it mine for reasons other than that I simply bought it.

I guess you can say I have a healthy attitude about restoration. I buy most everything from the catalog houses. I don't search for original things unless I can't stand the pain of the cost from say Ecklers. For instance I got a used vert top frame for $500, Instead of $2000. If I am careful I won't have much more in the car than I can get out of it. If I am not careful I should break even in 10 years or so, I guess. Might be all wishful thinking. But I'm having fun! It's an escape. Generally the chassis is very familiar and takes me back to when I was 17. Thats what I want out of it. It's very simple. Everyone is different.

 

I'm a '69 L-46 (350/350) owner myself and completely understand - it's a sweet engine. I'd just note that you can build that engine with virtually any block...and slip in a 383 without anyone knowing

It's a cool project and a great car - I'm sure she'll be a beauty...and have your personal stamp on it - when she's done.

 

The only way 60 over is too much for a small block is if the casting is an utter piece of junk.

 

...as most GEN I blocks are, hence the aftermarket

 

billa

Mines a L79. I guess thats virtually the same thing as the L-46. Also when you say slip in a 383, please explain. I had thought that maybe I could eek out another 25 - 50 hp or so with internal mods and from the outside it still looks like the stock 327-350 hp. is that what you mean by 383. What do you slip in? a longer stroke crankshaft to make it 383? Is this what they mean by a stroker engine? Boy I got a lot to learn!!

 

Yep, I believe it's the same cam and top end (low-rise cast iron an Q-Jet).

You could build a COMPLETELY stock looking engine that would make 375+ flywheel horsepower (~300HP at the rear wheels) - and still be very driveable and smooth. I don't have pictures (pre-digital ), but I built a 425HP completely stock-looking LT1 - right down to the AC fuel filter. The only visual tip were spacers underneath the LT-1 aluminum valve covers to provide clearance for the roller rockers All GEN I's look alike from the outside, and using the stock colors and accessories means no one will ever know...until you start it up

A 350 can be very inexpensively stroked to 383 cubic inches - we replace the 3.48 stroke crank with a 3.75 stroke crank and the stock rods with 6" rods. Search on 383 and you'll probably get more hits than you can imagine. It adds about $500 direct costs to the engine (cast crank and I-beam rods) and is externally invisible.

Building an engine to 1HP/CID (flywheel) is fairly straightforward, a little more to 1.2 HP/CID...then it gets crazy and goes geometric at about 1.4 HP/CID.

 

I have a 60 over 400 which is even more critical. Wasn't planned but the shop informed me of it when I picked it up, I would've brought them another block if I'd known. I haven't had one issue however and it puts out just over 500hp. Runs 180* all day too.

 

Billa,
I appreciate the info., sounds like the way to go. Will keep it in mind as I move forward.

 

As many millions of Gen 1 SBCs were built, there are plenty of great blocks out there. The aftermarket blocks are wonderful, but expensive when you can get a nice, seasoned piece of iron cheap at the boneyard.

 

No pushback, I just disagree that almost every block can take an .060 overbore - this has not been my experience. It's not just about the "meat" to do it, or issues like core shift. It also affects the stiffness of the bore. IMHO, it's not the right thing to do for an engine that's making more than about 1HP/CID at the flywheel.

 

i have a few old blocks i will check to see if i have something around august of 67 i know i have a virgin 396 i believe from april of 66 if you like bb

thanks donnie

 

i found a (f 4 7) june 4 1967 it is a small journal but a standard bore should clean up at .030
thanks donnie

 

So do you have an original engine in the car (327ci) or a 350 (non-original)?

 

I hvae a machine shop with some old blocks and cranks. this is a small journal so a 327 two bolt main. everything i have has been disassemble so i don't a complete motor

thanks donnie

 

The vette I looked at originally was disassembled with the engine out and the body partially stripped. New interior and carpets in the box inside "if the mice haven't got to it". The engine was a .060 over 400 and he and the guy he got it from swear by 'em. Said the last 60 over 400 went 80k miles and then got swapped to a boat and was still going.
I backed off that one cause the "pieces" had been sitting so long and the 60 over put me off a bit. Heh, well that and the asking price kept going up
Might take a look at that 400 sometime. It's local and I suspect the pieces of vette are all still there keeping each other company.