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I'm curious, what cc's are the stock heads on a 1980 l-82 with a 350? I'm hoping they are bigger as in 72cc and up. I figure if they are and i swap to some aftermarket 64cc heads i should get a nice bump in compression, i'm already at 9:1. All i need is a point for some good power i figure, right? This might be a better fix instead of a new motor at this point. The edelbrock smog legal aluminum heads are only $600 fully assembled. Thoughts? Thanks guys!
I believe they should be the standard 76cc smogger heads. A set of 64cc heads will wake up that motor. The stock L-82 cam really likes 10+:1 compression and will run fine on pump gas.
I'm curious, what cc's are the stock heads on a 1980 l-82 with a 350? I'm hoping they are bigger as in 72cc and up. I figure if they are and i swap to some aftermarket 64cc heads i should get a nice bump in compression, i'm already at 9:1. All i need is a point for some good power i figure, right? This might be a better fix instead of a new motor at this point. The edelbrock smog legal aluminum heads are only $600 fully assembled. Thoughts? Thanks guys!
So,
64cc edelbrock heads-$600
Dual plane intake with EGR-$150-$250
Built Q-jet carb-$350
Smile as I floor the gas pedal-$priceless
Total: $1200 bucks should get me to at least 300hp
Plus i can still go electric water pump and electric fan, that should help some more. Is my thought process correct? Am I missing something? It almost seems too easy.
I'd skip the money on the Q-jet and rebuild yours or send it of to Lars.
Don't forget to rebuild/recurve your distributor as well. You might as well send Lars both of them so they are done right if you haven't done this type of work before.
Aren't those Edlebrock heads $600 each??
Install a new Cloyes timing chain so that you can advance your L-82 cam 4 degrees to wake it up at lower RPMs.
darn it, i was looking at it wrong, they are $600 each
still not bad but the summit cast iron heads with the same intake/exhaust valve size and 67cc size are a little over $300 each
will i lose performance with these over the aluminum 64cc edelbrock or is the difference negligible? Obviously no weight savings but i can live with that, cast iron is more durable though right? What about heat retention? I'm guessing they are 67cc versus the 64cc so that compression is just a tad lower to help with pinging from heat from the heads, but what do i know, i thought the aluminum ones were 600 a pair
No worries, the Summit's will be fine or look at some Dart Platinums. Yes, you'll save some weight and you can run higher compression with aluminum, but with your combo and budget, cast iron is fine.
with a modest hydraulic cam (.460" lift, 220*-224* @ .050"-lift duration ) and headers would yield 325-350 HP, for similar money-spent:
just a thought.
Last edited by Glensgages; Aug 9, 2007 at 07:30 PM.
i've been looking at that but i need to pass smog and I don't want to fabricate something to work in place of the heat crossover on the stock heads. the base edel's or summits have this. I have considered putting on whatever i want and then swapping it back to smog but that seems like a lot of hassle. If i can get creative and squeeze 350hp out of this thing while remaining smog legal and not doing a rebuild then i will be really happy. i can settle for 300hp though
Joe,
I put the Dart IE 64cc heads w/.015" steel shim gaskets on mine and do not have detonation issues. C/R is at 10.4 with this set of parts. These IE heads do not have the exhaust passage so they would not be smog legal.
The Edelbrock smog legal Performer heads do have the passage and would make for a good combination. You probably would run a somewhat thicker composition gasket with aluminum heads so the compression will be slightly lower than 10.4 with that set of parts but still above 10:1.
I think Summit has some good deals on cast iron 64cc heads that would still have the crossover passage. You might want to look there. Run those with the .015" gaskets and you should be good to go.
You might want to send the distributor and carb to Lars for a recurve and rejet. I did the distributor myself but had Lars tweak my carb. I am running a non smog legal true dual setup with no cat so I needed to jet up a bit on the primary side.
along these lines, I have a question. I had a stock 76 L48 with the 76cc heads. I replaced the heads with 64cc heads, changed rings, bearings etc, but left the bottom end stock, the original compression ratio is 8.5-1, what did the heads raise it to?
first, i've got to say, this is a great forum, there arn't many that will help a total newb with all kinds of info like you guys have posted. i really appreciate it.
Now, i'm thinking, it sounds like this aluminum/cast iron head thing is a catch 22.
I can run more compression through a set of aluminum heads but i need to run a thicker gasket therefore reducing my compression. Whats the reason for running a thicker gasket?
I could go with cast iron and then run a thinner head gasket but then i can't run as high a compression.
Or would it be a wash? The iron heads are 67cc and the aluminum heads are 64cc. Would i be looking at the same compression on either if i ran a thinner gasket on 67cc heads versus a thicker gasket on 64cc heads? But then I start thinking it might be better to run the thinner gasket on the 64cc aluminum for that last bit of horsepower.
Mark, do you run your motor on 91 octane with 10.4 compression? How does it do? Thanks again.
The "thinner" head gasket is a steel shim (.015). You cannot run this gasket with an aluminum head. The aluminum needs a composite gasket. It may have to do with the flexing of the head. Even when using the .015 on iron, the surfaces have to be perfectly straight.
The only way to get the higher compression with the aluminum head is to plan it from the beginning and use the appropriate pistons.
If you want to play around with static compression ratio, use this calculator. However, don't trust the dynamic ratio calculator.
Sorry, that's wrong. The #1094 FP's CAN BE USED with aluminum heads. It's a rubber coated, embossed, .015" gasket. Surface finish does have considered depending on the final combination (alum/cast iron). Been testing these for a few years before their release.
Though for this application the embossed gaskets may jack up the compression to much. Was trying to check a database for the stock piston cc and depth in block for this year but it's not up and running today. You need more numbers (data) to finish the compression calc (you have) before moving on.
first, i've got to say, this is a great forum, there arn't many that will help a total newb with all kinds of info like you guys have posted. i really appreciate it.
Now, i'm thinking, it sounds like this aluminum/cast iron head thing is a catch 22.
I can run more compression through a set of aluminum heads but i need to run a thicker gasket therefore reducing my compression. Whats the reason for running a thicker gasket?
I could go with cast iron and then run a thinner head gasket but then i can't run as high a compression.
Or would it be a wash? The iron heads are 67cc and the aluminum heads are 64cc. Would i be looking at the same compression on either if i ran a thinner gasket on 67cc heads versus a thicker gasket on 64cc heads? But then I start thinking it might be better to run the thinner gasket on the 64cc aluminum for that last bit of horsepower.
Mark, do you run your motor on 91 octane with 10.4 compression? How does it do? Thanks again.
If some guys are having good luck with the Fel Pro thinner steel shim gasket on aluminum heads then great. The only concern I have with that is that it might not live as long when used with alum heads. If it works, then run it. I can't say I would do that myself. I would run the composition gasket and give up a tiny amount of compression to have more confidence in the head gasket sealing over the long haul with the iron/aluminum combination.
With '80 L-82 pistions and the typical production deck ht and a .015" steel shim and 64cc iron heads you will be at 10.4 C/R. This will run fine on pump premium with the stock L-82 cam setup. I would not go higher on the C/R and you need to have the cooling system up to snuff. This will have a very slight idle lope and a soft bottom end but the top end is realy good. This is how a stock Vette should run.
OR you could get a set of dished pistons and a stroker crank and build it into a torque monster sleeper. Very streetable and reliable. Leaves a little on the table but maybe this is all you need to have a blast.
Sorry, that's wrong. The #1094 FP's CAN BE USED with aluminum heads. It's a rubber coated, embossed, .015" gasket. Surface finish does have considered depending on the final combination (alum/cast iron). Been testing these for a few years before their release.
Though for this application the embossed gaskets may jack up the compression to much. Was trying to check a database for the stock piston cc and depth in block for this year but it's not up and running today. You need more numbers (data) to finish the compression calc (you have) before moving on.
The description says that it has the minimum brinelling of an aluminum head, but there was a thread several months ago where people were recommending a thicker gasket for aluminum heads.
don't get me wrong, i totally appreciate the feedback, i honestly didn't know why you would go with a thicker gasket but that makes sense now.
the iron heads from summit have 67cc chambers versus the 64cc. I'm thinking this would slide me in at the same compression with a thin gasket versus the aluminum and a thicker gasket. Right? So i'm looking at just a hair over 10:1 and a very durable set-up with the iron heads. That may be the best route for me as I need this car to be fairly trouble free.
hey guys, i did some more digging around at summit. their aluminum heads are 62cc, those coupled with the thicker head gasket should get me reliability and my 10.4 compression. they are 170cc intake runners and 69cc exhaust which is pretty streetable from what i've picked up in other threads, they also retail for $950 per pair which is only 300 more then i would be paying for the cast iron heads. i think these are the ones. only one question remains. they are angle plug heads, the stock heads are straight plug. will i have issues with my stock exhaust manifolds and the spark plugs? thanks guys!
hey guys, i did some more digging around at summit. their aluminum heads are 62cc, those coupled with the thicker head gasket should get me reliability and my 10.4 compression. they are 170cc intake runners and 69cc exhaust which is pretty streetable from what i've picked up in other threads, they also retail for $950 per pair which is only 300 more then i would be paying for the cast iron heads. i think these are the ones. only one question remains. they are angle plug heads, the stock heads are straight plug. will i have issues with my stock exhaust manifolds and the spark plugs? thanks guys!
That makes absolutely no sense to me.. Your paying about $1000 for a set of heads to raise compression and enhance its breathing capacity for HP and then your choking it down w/ exhaust manifolds? Before you did anything, I would put a decent set of headers and 2.5 in. true dual exhaust system (fabricated by a local shop is probably you best bet) before I even messed with the intake and heads. You need to be able to remove what you take in (in other words - the key to HP is breathing) otherwise your HP gains should be minimal.
I don't mean to come acrosss rude, but I would look into a decent exhaust system before I thought about an intake and head combo.