I am looking to replace my water pump soon; currently my water temp's running around 200 While searching the archives for a recomendation, stewart pumps kept coming up. At their site they have pumps stage 1 through 4. I was thinking a 2 or 3 would be best suited for my application. The guy who recommended stewart said to go with a stage 2 however the stage 3 is only about $20 more. Anybody on here use either of these (or both) I'd like to determine if the stage 3 is worth the extra $20. If it helps, my vette is a '77 L48. Thanks.

 

Even the stock GM pump is overkill for cooling purposes. If your car is running too hot, look elsewhere for the cause. Most times it's a clogged up radiator.

 

If your pump is not leaking or making noises, it doesn't need to be changed. Make sure ALL seals are in place around your rad and fan shroud.

 

Guess I should have mentioned, the pump is leaking around one gasket, but it may have just been the extra pressure of the hot radiator fluid. I am going to have the radiator flushed before I replace the pump, just thought I'd get a few suggestions first.

 

If you do find that the pump needs to be replaced....Go with a standard G.M. pump and save the extra money
I have a .060 over 350 with a regular ol' water pump, and have no heating issues whatsoever. 180* all day!
I do have dual electric fans however.
I am also using the original rad!

 

Edelbrock has a selection of water pumps that have better flow characteristics than stock. Get one thats not dressed up to save some $$.

 

generally, the aftermarket pumps should provide a more balanced flowrate to each bank (casting change), and while they were at it, they offer different impellers (more flowrate).

i think most would agree that these features are more important for al headed or higher dollar engines for either needed cooling performance increase or insurance. they work well on factory engines; but then so do factory pumps.

 

Things to check first:
1) Are all the seals in place around your radiator? Incoming air can only cool the engine coolant if it goes [I]through[I] the radiator.
2) Is your front spoiler still there and in one piece?
3) A working and correct temp thermostat.
4) Check for collapsed or "mushy" radiator hoses.
5) When you get the core flushed also have the fins power washed to blow all the bugs out.

 

If your pump does have a leak, then you may also have air in the cooling system. This will cause high temperatures.

Did you have high temps before the water pump leakage?

Changing your water pump will do nothing to rectify the temp issue.

 

I went with a Weiand Team G for the Weight and well Ya Know

but Have to Agree A stock Waterpump is just fine for even a Modded daily Driver.

Details:
Team G Water Pump Part #: 8220-Modified UPC #: 032474822000 Weiand Team G water pumps are ideally suited for racing. New, not rebuilt, they are designed from the outset with premium features that will assure reliable and consistent engine cooling performance. They are built to the highest manufacturing and industry quality standards at the Holley plant in Bowling Green, KY, and then rigorously tested to assure leak–free operation. We believe that these are the finest racing mechanical water pumps on the market today. One look will convince you of the superior design and performance capabilities of the Weiand Team G water pump line–up. Team G Aluminum Water Pump 1971–1982 Chevrolet Small Block Corvette Satin Finish Installation Notes Dimension from fan mounting hub to block surface: 5.80" Features Lightweight aluminum CNC Machined 3/4" shaft and pilot Eight-blade cast anti-cavitation impeller 100% leak tested Technical Information Instructions for Part# 8220-Modified = Special fittings on each mounting Ear.

 

Thanks for all the replies everybody! The place it's leaking at is gasket closest to the passenger's side. The bolts were not loose but I was able to torque one down a little more so that may have fixed the leak. With regaurds to the overheating, the coolant was boiling when I discovered the leak; this was after I took the vette out and put it through it's paces. I was pushing it fairly hard and this is the first time it's overheated, so I assumed I just wasn't getting enough flow. Like I said I plan to take it to the shop tomorrow and get the radiator flushed out, if this solves the problem then good, if not I'll be getting a new pump.

 

If you do get a stewart stage two pump make sure you get their modified high flow thermostat that they recommend.

 

What is the purpose/difference on the high flow theremostat?

 

200 isn't overheating - it's not even boiling. That's well within the range of normal.

 

"Like I said I plan to take it to the shop tomorrow and get the radiator flushed out, if this solves the problem then good, if not I'll be getting a new pump."
If after the rad is flushed you still have the same problem....Get a New Rad!(And a 180* t-stat)

 

For a BB - sure - but not a SB