Charging System Update.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Columbia Missouri
Serpentine slipping at 2000+? Hmm...interesting aspect but I hear no slipping and it seems to me it's unlikely. Thanks.
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Team Owner
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From: Columbia Missouri
Le Mans Master
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From: indy indiana
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: Columbia Missouri
Le Mans Master
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From: Boca Raton Florida
Not necessarily, there is paint, grease, dirt whatever on the bracketry and I have seen s bunch of these things NOT have a cood gase ground. A good, heavy copper wire ground directly on the case to the frame is better
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Team Owner
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From: Columbia Missouri
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Champlin Minnesota
If you have a CS130 in your car it will work the same way my CS144 works. I bought a cs alternator plug and pigtails, the red wire coming from the pigtail gets soldered to the red wire in the factory wiring (this is for remote sensing which will maintain 14 volts at power junction, not the back of the alternator) the black wire in the plug does not get used, and the brown wire in the plug has to have a 330 ohm resistor soldered in and then connect that to a switched ignition power source. (THis is what excites the alternator and switches it on) Then hook your ground up and the red wire to the bat on the back of the alternator. Test the voltage with the car off at the batt terminal, then start the car and test it again, should read 14+ volts(this is ok because it will have a slightly higher voltage at the back of the alternator just to maintain the 14 volts at your power junction) Then rev the motor while watching the voltmeter, shouldn't fluctuate but a few points of a volt. If your factory voltmeter matches what your multimeter is saying a light isn't nessecary in my opinion... I can post pics of my install later tonight if you want
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Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Champlin Minnesota
Also check out this site, lots of important info on wiring CS series alternators...towards the bottom it mentions CS130 alternators and the various models they have and how each have to be wired differently.
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Alternator-Theory.htm
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Alternator-Theory.htm
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
If you have a CS130 in your car it will work the same way my CS144 works. I bought a cs alternator plug and pigtails, the red wire coming from the pigtail gets soldered to the red wire in the factory wiring (this is for remote sensing which will maintain 14 volts at power junction, not the back of the alternator) the black wire in the plug does not get used, and the brown wire in the plug has to have a 330 ohm resistor soldered in and then connect that to a switched ignition power source. (THis is what excites the alternator and switches it on) Then hook your ground up and the red wire to the bat on the back of the alternator. Test the voltage with the car off at the batt terminal, then start the car and test it again, should read 14+ volts(this is ok because it will have a slightly higher voltage at the back of the alternator just to maintain the 14 volts at your power junction) Then rev the motor while watching the voltmeter, shouldn't fluctuate but a few points of a volt. If your factory voltmeter matches what your multimeter is saying a light isn't nessecary in my opinion... I can post pics of my install later tonight if you want
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
When did you get a job??? I thought you were a KEPT man.
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Team Owner
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From: Columbia Missouri
Race Director
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Matt-just looked at the pic of your setup.Slipping is possible-you dont have alot of belt contact.Make sure you cant turn the alt. pulley by trying to rotate the fan with your fingers.If you cant turn it that should be OK.If you can turn it by hand it will slip.
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Team Owner
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From: Columbia Missouri
Yeah I checked that when I installed it, and it won't turn by hand. I can check again tomorrow too.
Race Director
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Good Plan-stick to your set hours.You cant make money working on cars while on a computer or working on your own stuff. (Guess what-Im working on a dang ol Dodge-puttin a supercharger on a hemi magnum)
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Team Owner
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From: Columbia Missouri
Update:
I used a multimeter this morning when the car was off and cold and checked both the battery and alternator BAT terminal to ground.
The alt, and the case is grounded just fine, had 12.90V and the battery had 13.09V.
I started the car and the alt had 14.54V and the battery had 14.30V. This all seems fine at idle.
I could not get it to duplicate the previous symptoms and the GEN light never lit and the voltage would not drop when I goosed the throttle. I let the engine warm up, so the alt was hot, and all readings stayed the same and I could not get the GEN light to even flicker.
Sucks because I can't diagnose the problems if they hide from me.
I used a multimeter this morning when the car was off and cold and checked both the battery and alternator BAT terminal to ground.
The alt, and the case is grounded just fine, had 12.90V and the battery had 13.09V.
I started the car and the alt had 14.54V and the battery had 14.30V. This all seems fine at idle.
I could not get it to duplicate the previous symptoms and the GEN light never lit and the voltage would not drop when I goosed the throttle. I let the engine warm up, so the alt was hot, and all readings stayed the same and I could not get the GEN light to even flicker.
Sucks because I can't diagnose the problems if they hide from me.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
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St. Jude Donor '03,'11
You built an engine when you were 6 years old?
I would suspect a bad connection. Measure the voltage at the battery and repeat the test.
edit: i see you already did that. A bad connection is gonna come and go. Try again later. The voltage at the alt is going up because the load is disconnected intermittantly. The voltage reg backs down because it thinks its overboosting.
I would suspect a bad connection. Measure the voltage at the battery and repeat the test.
edit: i see you already did that. A bad connection is gonna come and go. Try again later. The voltage at the alt is going up because the load is disconnected intermittantly. The voltage reg backs down because it thinks its overboosting.
Last edited by turtlevette; Aug 21, 2007 at 12:10 PM.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Columbia Missouri
Interesting idea about the regulator backing off.
As far as the wiring it's as follows.
The only difference is I have added a 4 gauge jumper wire that goes from the alternator's BAT terminal to a distribution block that also has a 4 gauge wire running down to the starter BAT terminal.
I was going to run a third 4 gauge wire to the battery, and a fourth for the second alternator when the 405 goes in.
I double checked all the connections and they are all solid and tight. I checked for broken wires and corrosion in the stock wires and found them to be in fine shape and I can't see any arcing to the valve cover from any of the hot wires on the alt.
As far as the wiring it's as follows.
The only difference is I have added a 4 gauge jumper wire that goes from the alternator's BAT terminal to a distribution block that also has a 4 gauge wire running down to the starter BAT terminal.
I was going to run a third 4 gauge wire to the battery, and a fourth for the second alternator when the 405 goes in.
I double checked all the connections and they are all solid and tight. I checked for broken wires and corrosion in the stock wires and found them to be in fine shape and I can't see any arcing to the valve cover from any of the hot wires on the alt.