I've decided to stay with my cast crank instead of getting a stroker crank. I'm still going with the forged pistons and rods though. My concern is that everything will be properly oiled during operation. I'll be spinning the engine up to 6500RPMs and I don't want to spin a bearing due to insufficient oiling.

What can I do to make sure that my engine gets a sufficient amount of oil during operation? Would a high-volume oil pump help out?

 

unless you're never gonna do any high-g acclerations, a high-vol pump is not a good idea with stock pan. stock BB oil system are very good, providing engine clearances are within spec.

 

I try to run the clearances on the tight side rather then the loose side. I did run a high volume pump and idle hot at 45-50 lbs and anthing else around 70psi. I do have a 1/8th hole spraying oil on the back of the timing chain gear and also a 3/32 hole oiling the distributor bushings and a groove in the side of the distributor to oil the gear. I have spun it to 7500 plus on a number of occassions. I now have a rev limiter set at 7000. Install a good rev limiter. To bad about the stroker crank. The extra 40 cubic inches help.
You will eventually tire of even a big block. Power is addicting. With the stoker crank you can use stock pistons and machine the dome slightly.
Good luck

 

I agree with the sock crank, but why the forged Pistons? Nitrous?
Of course they do rattle nicely when cold, sounds like a Mack truck till it warms up :D:D

I'd stick with the stock oil pump unless you know you need it, and you don't


[Modified by 427V8, 2:57 PM 11/6/2001]

 

I undestand a high volume pump can "pump out" the oil pan too quickly thus causing lubrication problems. I would stick with a standard volume pump.

 

Norval:
I'm still kicking around the idea of a stroker crank. If I get one it will be a 4.375" stroker crank...not a 4.250" stroker crank. The 4.375" stroker crank will put me at 503ci (w/ +.030" bore). I haven't ruled the crank out as possibility but I'll have to see how tight the budget is this winter.

I'm worried about twisting the chasis...especially with the solid motor mounts and MT drag radials that I'll be using. I still do not plan on launching hard, dumping the clutch or power shifting...so it should make it a little easier on the drive line.

I also need to figure out what type of pistons I'll have to use with the stroker crank (domed, flat tops, dished). The compression ratio needs to be at least 10:1 due to the cam that I'm going with. I called Comp Cams and they said that I may need to have the valve reliefs machined a little deeper to accomidate the lift of the cam.

What do you think of the intake (Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap), will it work good with my setup?

I'm just curious, what kind of horsepower and torque would I be looking if I go with a stroker crank and the current setup listed in my signature :) ?


[Modified by bence13_33, 4:13 PM 11/6/2001]

 

If you go to the 4.375 stroker crank there is no chance of using stock pistons. With the 4.250 stoke stock pistons can be reworked. With the smaller stroke .100 needs to be machined off the pistons flat surface. You want 0 deck height which takes up about the first .025. Lingenfelter advertises this same setup, stoker crank stock pistons oval port, mild roller cam 612 HP with rectangular heads same setup 666HP.
I ran a ported stock highrise LS6 intake for years with a wild flat tappet cam and loved it. Wanting to upgrade I went with a 454R victor junior single plane and the about mentioned roller cam and the car slowed down. Idled well but didn't have that top end charge.
You say you are running solid mounts. Why? I hated the solid mounts. The car had a vibration at idle. I went with the morosso poly mounts and never had a problem.
You say you will not launch hard and yet you run ET street slicks? Yah right.
Have fun and keep posting your plans.

 

hey bence... try to go with some of the proven stuff... dont go with odd ball stroke length thats bragging rights, get the one thats in most engines, cranks and rods if you do break one are kind of expensive to replace if you can only get them through one company because they are they only ones who make them

I dont think you will have to much of a problem with frame flex but you might want to buy some of those weld in tabs to keep the frame together... and maybe a strut bar for the front... but if you arent going to launch it hard... hard to do if your making 450 - 600 horsepower you probably wont need it, but insurance is good for this stuff

ZD