Ok, I have had it with the builder that did the work on my '73 Coupe.... Looks like were going to court.

I am 99% sure I'm going to go with a ZZ4 long block.
Everything is included except the flywheel, intake, fuel pump, balancer, water pump,and distributor. (not sure about the oil filter adapter and fuel pump rod)

I am hoping to use all my existing L-48 parts other than the flywheel and perhaps distributor.?

Edelbrock performer & Q-Jet
Water pump.(fairly new)
Brand new AC OEM fuel pump.

The distributor is one of my main concerns as I want to keep my manual tach. Has any body used a manual tach drive dist with a replacement melonized gear with the ZZ4?

Is there a large tray that fully covers the lifter valley or just the small one?

I suppose I will need to pull my old flywheel to measure it for a replacement? Is this engine internally balanced?

Another question.... I have swapped/pulled/installed many Chevrolet engines and have always pulled the manual transmission with the engine. Since my crossmember does not come out, can I still pull the engine and Muncie as one unit?
I cant imagine leaving the transmission in and trying to line up the input shaft on re-installation, but I have never tried it.

I guess thats all for now but I'm sure there will be more questions as I move along.

I would really appreciate any help and suggestions.
Thanks
Bob.

 

My conversion is documented at:

http://corvettec3.ca/zz4.htm

 

Thanks, I had read your page before and everything I could find on the forum.
I knew about the water pump,flywheel, and a few other issues but there still some questions posted above that I need some information on

 

The MSD 8572 Has the Tach drive & the right gear for your roller cam.
You must use the 6a or 6al Ignition with it, Thats a good thing.

You will have the OEM spider to hold the lifters down.

That engine is internal balance..(only the 383 is external). You will need a late model flywheel with the new Bolt pattern for 1piece rear seal block.

Engine and trans will go in togeather or separate. Togeather may be easiest if your radiators out, But the Muncie isnt difficult to get lined up , just dont force it in with the Bell housing Bolts. Good Luck

 

Thanks Tom
What is the the 6a - 6al Ignition and why do I need one?
I really didnt want to blow $350 on a dist.
I already have 2 tach drive units and a few HEI units but not for a manual tach.

Also, are you saying if the transmission is left in the car its easiest to leave the bell housing with the trans?


-EDIT- Ok, I see, the 6a goes with the MSD (more money)What I really need to know is if I can use my original dist and simply replace the gear.

Thanks again

 

That ignition enhances the spark in a Big way. It only "has" to be used if you have the 8572 distributor, But most other elec. dist. can use the MSD 6al too, like the Hei's , Mallory's and Petronix for example(research it). Many on the forum here use the MSD combo with their engine's, Merely a Preference, The other distributor types are Just fine.

BUT..If I had a good Tach drive dist. sitting on My shelf Id just use that too, and Save the Bucks and maybe change later when everythings up and running. Choices choices....eh.

 

I actually shipped one out to Lars last winter and he rebuilt it for me so I would like to use it.

I don't see why it wouldn't work unless the new gear wont fit.

 

Yeah Bob, Just make sure you get a new Melonized Gear for it and Good to go. The gear will fit, its indexed and needs to be installed according to the index mark. With that in Mind, its hard to go Wrong. Support the shaft, Tap the Old roll pin out, Remove the gear, Put the new gear on , Seat the roll pin. If you get the gear on wrong it will Be binding (to tight). When its on correct, you'll have a around .010 end play.

 

Your going to love the motor. Binnie77 great write up, nothing to add.

 

Perfect Timing-just ordered one today! Nice right-up! Thanks

 

I'd like to think that you were incorrect to say the ZZ4 is internally balanced. I've got a counterweighted flywheel on my ZZ4. I haven't driven the car yet, but I've had the engine running and there doesn't seem to be any unbalance problems.

 

I could be incorrect..I used the GMPP 383 shortblock..Its external Balanced and Somehow I thought the ZZ4 was Internal.

PS..definitly a nice write Binny...

 

Hal, I just spoke to the dealer where I bought mine and he said it requires an externally balanced flywheel
So, I would imagine your good to go.

I bought mine in OH.... this is like the twilight zone....

 

I do not know what he is saying but just leave the transmission in the car, not the bell housing, that comes out still attached to the engine. When you go to stab the engine use an alighnment tool and as stated before DO NOT USE THE TRANSMISSION BOLTS TO PULL THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSOIN TOGETHER FOR ANY REASON! Al

 

The only real problem with the ZZ4s is that they are dogs. I've not seen a dyno test on any that showed RWHP in excess of about 250 and most seem to be in the 225-240 hp range.

 

Well Ive never done a standard without pulling the trans with the engine but considering the crossmember and the access to the shift linkage I believe I'll give it a try this time.

I suppose loosening the trans mount and dropping the driveshaft so I can spin the tail shaft to line it up should be enough.
Thanks!

 

Here' my tech tip I wrote a few years ago.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=167&TopicID=3

I pull my engine and transmission as one. I recommend an engine leveler and remove your hood. As added insurance I put a piece of plywood on my radiator "just in case". I can tell you that my ZZ4 is not a DOG and I know that it is not losing approximately 30% of it's power as suggested above. It is probably putting down around 290 to 300 to the road.

 

When I swapped out the engine in my '69 convert., I left the 4-speed Muncie in the car, and supported it with a floor jack. I did the entire job by myself in my home garage with a rented cherry picker. With just the engine to be concerned about, it was easy as it came straight up and out. I was somewhat concerned about lining up the trans input shaft to the clutch, but when I got to that part, it went smoothly. I made sure the engine and the trans were level and aligned. After jiggling the engine and rocking the car back and forth a bit with the trans in 4th gear, it went right home. Here's a photo of it coming out. http://www.myruffhouse.com/Out%20with%20the%20old.JPG

 

I did the same thing but I didn't even pull the hood!!

 

Thanks Tom

I think ill remove the hood

I'm starting to get things sorted somewhat.
I believe finding the correct flywheel will be a drag
Many variables... Bell housing style, starter nose cone, flywheel diameter, ring teeth, starter mounting holes on new block.....