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Best way to pull motor

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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 07:40 AM
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Default Best way to pull motor

I am getting ready to pull the motor in my 1970 this weekend. My car is a 4 speed car. I am wondering what is the best way to disconnect if from the trans. Should I unbolt the bellhousing from the back of the motor or front of trans? Also anyting special to watch for?

Thanks in advance

Marty
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 07:45 AM
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I remove the drive shaft,shifter,trans.then engine.
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 08:02 AM
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I was not planning on pulling the trans unless necessary
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 08:13 AM
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In a manual car its really easier to pull the tranny and put it back in after the engine is back in. Stabbing the input shaft into the clutch plate can be a PITA.
Rogers recipe is about the best.
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
In a manual car its really easier to pull the tranny and put it back in after the engine is back in. Stabbing the input shaft into the clutch plate can be a PITA.
Rogers recipe is about the best.


Pull everything out together.

On re-install, you can either reassemble the whole thing and install as a unit (how I prefer) or at a minimum, get everything correctly aligned before you install, then pull the transmission back off, install the engine and then install the tranny.

Clutch plate alignment can be a PITA....doing it when installed is better if you've got a lift, but still a pain.
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 08:51 AM
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Everything together..its the only way I do it. Last time we pulled my engine it took us all of 45 minutes.. including disconnecting everything.
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
In a manual car its really easier to pull the tranny and put it back in after the engine is back in. Stabbing the input shaft into the clutch plate can be a PITA.
Rogers recipe is about the best.
I pulled & installed two 350/4sp cars its easier when the trans is attached. You need two or three guys to help guide the process.
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Tecdiverfl
I am wondering what is the best way to disconnect if from the trans. Should I unbolt the bellhousing from the back of the motor or front of trans,
Originally Posted by Tecdiverfl
I was not planning on pulling the trans unless necessary
Sorry didnt read good enough.
If you dont want to pull the trans.I would unbolt the trans(4 bolts).(If you do the bellhousing you have a lot more bolts+ starter+flywheel shield,lockout cable etc.)Just be careful with the seperation of the input shaft and clutch.Its easy to bend things.Going back in with the trans in the car IMO is a bitch.Just make sure everthing is level,straight and the clutch is aligned to accept the input shaft.If it doesnt go right in stop and recheck -if you force it you'll probably have trouble later.
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 09:33 AM
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As mentioned above pull both together as a unit.
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 09:43 AM
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Well looks like the tranny is coming out with motor. What is the best way to remove the shifter?
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Tecdiverfl
Well looks like the tranny is coming out with motor. What is the best way to remove the shifter?
Under the body.
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 11:19 AM
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I have to disagree with you guys here... I've pulled dozens of Vette engines leaving the 4-speed tranny in the car, and it's a piece of cake.

Unbolt the engine from the bellhousing - 6 bolts that are easily accessible. Just support the tranny/bellhousing when you pull the engine. The tranny, bellhousing and shifter stays in the car without needing to be touched. Doing it this way, it takes me 55 minutes to pull a small block out of a C2 or C3. As long as you precisely align the clutch when you re-assemble the engine, the re-installation is easy. Do it.
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by lars
I have to disagree with you guys here... I've pulled dozens of Vette engines leaving the 4-speed tranny in the car, and it's a piece of cake.

Unbolt the engine from the bellhousing - 6 bolts that are easily accessible. Just support the tranny/bellhousing when you pull the engine. The tranny, bellhousing and shifter stays in the car without needing to be touched. Doing it this way, it takes me 55 minutes to pull a small block out of a C2 or C3. As long as you precisely align the clutch when you re-assemble the engine, the re-installation is easy. Do it.
Lars you gotta take the flywheel cover off which means you have to remove the starter.Those 6 housing bolts are not always easy to get to.Why not just pull it with the housing and starter on it?
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 12:21 PM
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Lars

You want to come the Florida for a vacation and help pull an engine?
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by lars
I have to disagree with you guys here... I've pulled dozens of Vette engines leaving the 4-speed tranny in the car, and it's a piece of cake.

Unbolt the engine from the bellhousing - 6 bolts that are easily accessible. Just support the tranny/bellhousing when you pull the engine. The tranny, bellhousing and shifter stays in the car without needing to be touched. Doing it this way, it takes me 55 minutes to pull a small block out of a C2 or C3. As long as you precisely align the clutch when you re-assemble the engine, the re-installation is easy. Do it.


Although I'm closer to two hours- leaving the trans in takes less time.





Richard
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 01:46 PM
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Can I offer a tip or 2 to all?
when bolting clutch to flywheel use a real input shaft from a trans those plastic alignment tools dont work worth a hoot.
Also when mating trans to bell housing get some long bolts the same pitch as the trans bolts and cut the heads off use them as alignment pins when stabbing the trans, once trans is pushed up tight against the Bell housing unthread the "alignment pins " and install bolts. You'll be surprised how easily it goes together
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