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This is the drivers side head from the "engine from hell".It has only 400 miles on it before #1 went haywire(after #2 went to hell).My question is with only 400 miles should the intake valves have that burn on them? I've never had to take one apart after 400 miles.I can see the pattern-its opposite the exhaust valve-so is this the flow in the chamber?Also dont valves turn?It seems to me this burn would only get worse but maybe its normal and the whole valve would just turn this color after more miles.Thanks for looking.
PS-the ZZ4 replacement is here and was ordered yesterday !!!
EDIT-#1 valve is currently open-its bent-just in case that it looked wierd and didnt match the others-the space between the valves.
Last edited by ...Roger...; Aug 24, 2007 at 12:53 PM.
This is the drivers side head from the "engine from hell".It has only 400 miles on it before #1 went haywire(after #2 went to hell).My question is with only 400 miles should the intake valves have that burn on them? I've never had to take one apart after 400 miles.I can see the pattern-its opposite the exhaust valve-so is this the flow in the chamber?Also dont valves turn?It seems to me this burn would only get worse but maybe its normal and the whole valve would just turn this color after more miles.Thanks for looking.
PS-the ZZ4 replacement is here and was ordered yesterday !!!
EDIT-#1 valve is currently open-its bent-just in case that it looked wierd and didnt match the others-the space between the valves.
I see this alot of times, and usally if you check the seal the dark spot is where the valve is leaking some. There are a lot of ways to check a sealing valve but here at work the only way and best way here is to use a very thin solvent and pour it in the ports and watch for a leak around the valve. And yes after flowing many heads on a flow bench that dark spot is where the air flows into the chamber the most. Your dark spots may not be a leak but it will be at lease the widest seat width there to allow the most heat transfer to the head there. And no it should not be different in that location but if you check you will see the seat width change in that area. I would check valve guide clearance for sure even if they seal with the solvent check,in running the valve still may not seal well with to much valve guide clearance. When the spring pulls the valve down in a non running engine it can seal, but when running at speed there is not enough time for a valve to fall to the side and seal as it runs, there is an ok seal not running and not a good seal at all when running because of the run out or lose guide clearance and you get the burn marks you have. So there are a few possiable reasons for your burn marks..
Is it 3827186, or 3927186? Do they have screw in studs? Double humps?
The 3927186 was used on the 1970 LT1, 64cc, 202/160/ screw in studs.
Your right--3927186--double humps--I dont think the studs are screw in they dont have a nut on the bottom.I put a vice grip on the broken stud and couldnt get it to move.I can try to double nut one of the others. I did use my glasses but that 9 sure looked like an 8.
My question is with only 400 miles should the intake valves have that burn on them? I've never had to take one apart after 400 miles.I can see the pattern-its opposite the exhaust valve-so is this the flow in the chamber?Also dont valves turn?.
I can put you in touch with a guy that knows these things inside-out.
he even works late......all the way to 10pm. Two dollars per minute paid by check, credit card or money order.
So what do you think of those burn marks? I would value your opinion.
Looks normal to me. Looks like some soot from running rich. The area of blackened intake is the area where you would expect less flow due to the combustion chamber and cylinder shrouding the valve so theres not enough heat to burn it off.
You owe me $10. will that be cash, check or charge?
Last edited by turtlevette; Aug 24, 2007 at 09:54 PM.
One thing I dont like is that the exhaust valves are not whitish in appearance. The exhaust valves should run very hot and a white, crusty, deposit should form on them. Yours show no sign of this.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Bad geometery.
If u stuck (or sucked) that exh vlv on #1 the vlv stems where pushed into to guides and the rocker tip terribly mis-aligned. Maybe p-rods wrong size or rockers not aligned for some reason - maybe vlv stems too short. I think if vlvs not adj right - no preload - that could ruin the vlv train in short time also.
But no sign of vlvs hitting pistons.
IMHO a burnt vlv is just that - burnt enough its missing metal and i don't see that here.
Someone setup the vlv train wrong or maybe adj vlv wrong though i have adj the vlv wrong myself before and never snapped a stud let alone stuck a vlv.
Good lesson here in bad vlv train geometery,
cardo0