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I documented the whole job you should be able to find it here or elsewhere under my name. Unless you bolt the rotors on, the runout will change. Using just the lug nuts alone is not good enough( for me anyway)
Easiest place to get them is your local "Fastenall" outlet. They are manufactured by "Precision Brand Products" and sold retail through "Fastenal". You want part numbers #25121(.001 shims/10 pack), #25122(.0015), #25123(.002), #25124(.003), and #25125(.004). If you don't have a local "Fastenal" outlet, go to the Precision Brand Products site and they list other vendors. Now do me a favor, where is the best place to get a cheeep dial gauge to measure the runout?
I documented the whole job you should be able to find it here or elsewhere under my name. Unless you bolt the rotors on, the runout will change. Using just the lug nuts alone is not good enough( for me anyway)
I read your full proceedure,, and was wishing you were around the corner so I could bring my '73 by. There is no way I can do that,, though I really would like to,, if for no other reason then the coolness factor of how they look with the counter sunk bolts. No facilities. I have to use only the lug nuts to hold them on, no alternative. How much do you think the runout may change, after I get it set up good with the wheels off, and then mount the wheels? If it won't work, I'll go with O-ring calipers. VBP set is about 350, shipped, runout shouldn't affect those, is that correct? I really do want to try to shim them myself, but if it may not work, I won't waste my time,, just get some O-ring Calipers.
I had another Idea, also. what if I had them turned (all 4) on the car, I've heard that the new shops now will turn all the rotors on the car, with the new machines, made for this purpose. that should eliminate all runnout, is that right? Thanks,, Chris.
Originally Posted by Ironcross
If there cut with a good machine you don't need shims. We have cut rotors into the thousands and none needed shims....
The rotors are fine,, the cut on the rotors doesn't have an effect on this run out. It's the wobble from the hub / rotor inside face not being 100% parallel for 360° in relation with the mounting ears of the rotors. the variance during a 360° rotation causes the problem. gotta shim.
Originally Posted by willem wallace
Easiest place to get them is your local "Fastenall" outlet. They are manufactured by "Precision Brand Products" and sold retail through "Fastenal". You want part numbers #25121(.001 shims/10 pack), #25122(.0015), #25123(.002), #25124(.003), and #25125(.004). If you don't have a local "Fastenal" outlet, go to the Precision Brand Products site and they list other vendors. Now do me a favor, where is the best place to get a cheeep dial gauge to measure the runout?
Some of the experts on here agree that for this job, you don't really want to skimp on a dial gauge. I think true star was mentioned as an alternative. saddly, hard to say where you can get an American made dial gauge anymore. They are made,, And for this, I am going to buy one. Cheaper then calipers or a mechanic doing the job. Worth it. Thinking, do I really want to spend 4 hours on this job,, then have it turn out Garbage, because the gauge was a POS,, you see my meaning. Doing the job Wednesday, depending on what Gary says. Let you know the details/how it turns out. C.