Originally Posted by 1fastC3

you could buy some acid ported heads or have your heads ported by a speed shop if you want to keep the stock look, nhra stock racers use acid porting to make more power and remain 'stock' same goes for the intake, if you want the power of a 350 in a 327 you just have to spin it a little higher, a 350 is just a stroked 327 anyways. for more tips on making big power you may want to check out www.speedtalk.com and read up on other peoples successes and failures here as well. a buddy of mine is making about 450hp with stock compression lift, heads, and intake, he stock races in nhra, he has acid ported heads and intake and insane duration on the cam, if its power you want shave down the heads a little bit, have them ported and get a good mech flat tappet cam with some roller rockers, thats about as good as it gets unless you want to buy heads, intake and a carb also.

-alex

Originally Posted by billla

There's no reason you can't have an engine that appears completely stock on the outside but is built to produce "modern" power. I've built many "restified" engines that have a look from completely stock (including stock fuel lines, correct clamps, etc.) to just looking very, VERY "factory".

The biggest limitations are heads and intakes. Head technology has changed a lot just in the last few years and we're lucky to have some great tools in the toolbox for performance. That's not to say that a set of older heads can't be brought up to a great level of performace - larger valves, swept chambers, porting, etc. - just that it's not financially responsible unless the intent is a completely stock looking engine (casting marks, etc.)

Intakes are the second issue, specifically the low-rise cast-iron Q-jet manifold. It's not a bad manifold - but it's not going to support a massive cam and high-flow heads.

All in all, you can build a stock-looking 327 that's pretty darn hot - making over 400HP at the flywheel - with a few investments such as:

- Ported heads
- Big cam
- Detail in assembly (port matching, etc.)
- Solid bottom-end

Start with the heads and work your way back to the rest of the engine. You CAN get what you want with a bit of $$$ invested!

Next step beyond that requires some thinking about what originality you're willing to sacrifice for performance. Headers? Heads that are painted orange...but are the latest technology and are visualy different? Spacers under the stock vavle covers to leave room for roller rockers? An orange-painted aluminum intake - or the Holley intake that is *very* similar to the LT-1 intake with the name "Holley" ground off? A different timing cover with room for a cam button? Once we start thinking about stock looking engines, the possibilities open up considerably and power is limited only by your budget

Originally Posted by Phil Zell

That 68 block should be a large journal crank which means a 400 crank will work with 5.7 rods, a set of flat top pistons, 2.02 valves in those 291 heads, keep the Q-Jet and intake and you can fry the tires at will.
You have now changed that 327 into a 383 Have fun

Originally Posted by couperdecar

thanks Billa. This conversion rocks and should be #1 on everyones list. I stuck in the 700R4 , but would probably do the 200- 4R next time. Although the 700R was an easy swap , I did have to cut the driveshaft and had to get it balanced 2wice. Not a big deal but when they're busy its just more down time. I understand the 200 4R is 'almost' a straight swap for the TH350.
Anyway Bowtie Overdrives makes everything easy .


http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml

just do it

Originally Posted by AWilson

Billla - I appreciate your input. You sound like you have a realistic approach and speak from experience. What does swept chambers and port matching mean?
Whats a cam button?

Originally Posted by AWilson

No matter what I change I think it is financially prudent to be able to convert back to stock LOOKING in say, a weekend in order to maintain the value of the car. Obviously this would only happen if I had to sell someday. I hope that never happens.

So if I build it myself and lets pick a number, $4000, plus $1000 -$1500 for a trans (Great idea by the way) can I:

Build up an engine over 400 HP. with low end torque, keeping the block and heads:
bigger valves and some work on heads to improve airflow.
rebuild original Q Jet (still need to get one)
A little hotter cam than original
new pistons
use existing crank but get back to tolerances
Maybe a manifold change or work on the original (need to find one still)
I do the rebuild

Originally Posted by Phil Zell

That 68 block should be a large journal crank which means a 400 crank will work with 5.7 rods, a set of flat top pistons, 2.02 valves in those 291 heads, keep the Q-Jet and intake and you can fry the tires at will.
You have now changed that 327 into a 383 Have fun

Originally Posted by couperdecar

AWilson writes :All I want to do is hit the gas on the green light and spin the tires for a while. I want it satisfyingly fast.


my own .02 ? Get one of the 2 available 4 sp overdrive transmissions. 1st gear will give you 30% more torque than your old tranny. 4th give will drop your RPM by 30% . So your old 3.55 gears 'look' like 4.61's at the green light. That otta spin the tires! And out on the highway your "3.55s" have magicly turned into "2.49s"

I put one in my '79 for about $1000. Everyone I've EVER talked to about this swap has always said that it was the BEST upgrade they ever made to the car.
And I've bumped my mileage from 19 mph to 25.8

Or you can dump $1000 bucks into heads and 'try' to get 30% more torque to spin those tires.

just my .02

Originally Posted by billla

There's no reason you can't have an engine that appears completely stock on the outside but is built to produce "modern" power. I've built many "restified" engines that have a look from completely stock (including stock fuel lines, correct clamps, etc.) to just looking very, VERY "factory".

The biggest limitations are heads and intakes. Head technology has changed a lot just in the last few years and we're lucky to have some great tools in the toolbox for performance. That's not to say that a set of older heads can't be brought up to a great level of performace - larger valves, swept chambers, porting, etc. - just that it's not financially responsible unless the intent is a completely stock looking engine (casting marks, etc.)

Intakes are the second issue, specifically the low-rise cast-iron Q-jet manifold. It's not a bad manifold - but it's not going to support a massive cam and high-flow heads.

All in all, you can build a stock-looking 327 that's pretty darn hot - making over 400HP at the flywheel - with a few investments such as:

- Ported heads
- Big cam
- Detail in assembly (port matching, etc.)
- Solid bottom-end

Start with the heads and work your way back to the rest of the engine. You CAN get what you want with a bit of $$$ invested!

Next step beyond that requires some thinking about what originality you're willing to sacrifice for performance. Headers? Heads that are painted orange...but are the latest technology and are visualy different? Spacers under the stock vavle covers to leave room for roller rockers? An orange-painted aluminum intake - or the Holley intake that is *very* similar to the LT-1 intake with the name "Holley" ground off? A different timing cover with room for a cam button? Once we start thinking about stock looking engines, the possibilities open up considerably and power is limited only by your budget

Originally Posted by AWilson

First: Talk to a good engine rebuilder
Use the Q-Jet
Get the stock heads breathing as best as possible with 2.02 valves.
flat top pistons ( I assume the flat tops instead of the original domes are for keeping the CR down for modern pump gas)
Stroke the engine to a 383: 400 cid crank, 5.7 rods
big cam (whatever that means because there are hundreds to choose from)
Porting, sweeping, and cleaning up the castings.
Might need a better intake.
5 0r 6 speed trans.
And last: Talk to a good engine rebuilder!

Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks

Crate engines are not inherently better, just a good many hobbyists don't do their homework (or even understand what all that homework should include).

If your C3 is matching numbers, it might be a good idea to set that orig block aside and have your fun with something else under the hood. It can still look stock, but you can flog the heck out of it without worrying about putting a window in it.

Originally Posted by billla

I think this is a workable approach - if you really want to keep the stock heads.

I always suggest purchasing a stroker kit (383) as an assembly vs. part-by-part. You really don't want a 400 crank - you want a 3.75 stroke crank from a major supplier such as Scat or Eagle. When you buy the complete assembly from them, it's balanced and ready to go - and in most cases will require less clearancing of the block and less risk of cam clearance issues. From your 400 HP target, a 383 will only require a relatively mild cam to get into that territory; generally an engine making 1 to 1.2 HP/CID is a pretty sweet engine for a daily driver

I maybe opened up a whole 'nother can of worms, but a little research on strokers will be very worthwhile.

The big thing is the machine shop or engine builder - a good one is a pleasure, a bad one will generally ruin you Buy a couple of books on engine rebuilding so you understand the overall process and what you're being told by the machine shop:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...671972chevygmc

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...671972chevygmc

Originally Posted by Taijutsu

Making 425 hp while looking stk w/327 will be tough. Go w/383 and have a much nicer car. Your limited by your intake, get the extra tq w/383. I don't think anyone has mentioned a retro HR cam. I have a 218-224 HR that rocks. You could get a cam that reaches the heads limits and still has great low end. The car will be much more driveable/fun.

You haven't mentioned about your shop situation. I lived in an apt and didn't have the space for extra engines to hang out.
Think about a turn key deal w/warrenty. Have one shop put it all together. Think about getting other work done while engine is out.
You will save money in the long run and you have a warrenty.
I have rebuilt my 74 a system at a time. Do not half azzz it.

Ricisan

Originally Posted by spedaleden

I would leave your motor alone and go with a crate motor. At least if you wreck the crate motor you still have the original.

I have a GM fast burn with a stock look


Here is the original motor


I went crate because the factory motor in my case, is only 2 bolt mains and heads suck, but if a 81 matching numbers ever took off (boy am I dreaming) I can put the original motor in.

Good luck

Originally Posted by ghoastrider1

No, the 400 crank is out of a 400 ci engine,versus the 350 ci ,327ci, 282 ci ect. The 5.7 is the lenght of the rod found in 350s..using the 400 crank with the 5.7 rods makes the piston move futher up and down the bore...thus "stroking" the engine. Longer stroke= more bottom end power (tourque). If you shorten the stroke,its usually for higher rpm and getting there faster...chevy did that with its 1969 Z-28, 302 engine, and it was a screamer. (327 with a 283 crank) Putting a 400 ci crank in a 350ci ( plus boring the block 30 over) yields a 383.

Originally Posted by AWilson

I already have the second book. It really seems detailed, step by step. Gives me confidence if I decide to do it myself.

I notice that many times I see cranks advertised as 383 or 383 stroker. Is it the same thing?

The reason I want to use my existing heads is I have to rebuild this engine anyway. it does me no good to have the correct engine if if is literally a rusty hunk of iron. Like I said I guess I am just trying to save money so I don't have to build 2 engines, one for car value, one for fun.
BUT would it be considered ruining the original heads if I put big new valves in them? Sounds crazy but could I reduce the valve size some day if I had to?