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Hydralic lifters "sorry"...

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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 04:52 PM
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From: Odder Jylland
Default Hydralic lifters "sorry"...

Hi guys...

Have a ticking noise when I drive the Vette.
Removed the Tach and Speedo. That wasent it.
Checked all the bolts to the headers. All good. So now I want to check the valves for adjustment..... But how, and what do I have. Hydraulic or solid....?
Sorry for this question, but have only tried to adjust valves on a Morris Mini


Best regards Wisp
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 05:45 PM
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A few things will help us help you. Year of motor/car? any mods done to engine?
Those are roller rockers you see there,with poly-locks Have you adjusted those(that type before?) There's a way to do it properly.
Does ticking keep time with valve train speed?
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 06:00 PM
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From: Odder Jylland
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Originally Posted by pmullaly
A few things will help us help you. Year of motor/car? any mods done to engine?
Those are roller rockers you see there,with poly-locks Have you adjusted those(that type before?) There's a way to do it properly.
Does ticking keep time with valve train speed?
It´s a 72.
350, bored 30 over.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...110921&autovie w=sku
Torker II manifold.

Hope it helps...
Havent adjusted those before.
Can´t tell if the ticking keep time with valve train speed, is there a way to tell?

Best regards Wisp

Last edited by Wisp; Sep 8, 2007 at 06:17 PM.
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 06:41 PM
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That info won't determine what you have. Here's how to do it:

A hydraulic lifter will feel as "solid" as a solid lifter as long as there is oil in the lifter. The oil will "bleed" out with one revolution of the camshaft. With the valve cover off on the driver's side, bring the engine up to TDC on the compression stroke on #1. In this configuration, both intake and exhaust valves will be closed, and you will have the most amount of "slack" in the valvetrain on #1. If it's a hydraulic lifter, there will be virtually no "slop" in the pushrod in this condition. A mechanical lifter will leave about .020" of up & down play in the pushrod. Next, take and crank the rocker arm nut down about 1/2 turn to take all the play out of the pushrod on either the intake or the exhaust valve. Verify that the pushrod is now tight - it should feel locked solid and jammed. In this condition, turn the engine over 2 times so that the camshaft turns a full turn. Turn the engine by hand, or "click" it over using the starter. Once you're back up to TDC on the compression stroke, feel the pushrod and see if it is now "relaxed" again (see if you can twirl it between your fingers). If it is, you have hydraulic lifters. If the pushrod is locked solid and tight, you have mechanical lifters.

Last edited by lars; Sep 8, 2007 at 06:43 PM.
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 07:16 PM
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welcome to the forum.
As engine speed increases, so will the ticking..do it from nuteral.
Solid lifters will tick..hyds. will not when adjusted properly
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 02:27 AM
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From: Odder Jylland
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Originally Posted by lars
That info won't determine what you have. Here's how to do it:

A hydraulic lifter will feel as "solid" as a solid lifter as long as there is oil in the lifter. The oil will "bleed" out with one revolution of the camshaft. With the valve cover off on the driver's side, bring the engine up to TDC on the compression stroke on #1. In this configuration, both intake and exhaust valves will be closed, and you will have the most amount of "slack" in the valvetrain on #1. If it's a hydraulic lifter, there will be virtually no "slop" in the pushrod in this condition. A mechanical lifter will leave about .020" of up & down play in the pushrod. Next, take and crank the rocker arm nut down about 1/2 turn to take all the play out of the pushrod on either the intake or the exhaust valve. Verify that the pushrod is now tight - it should feel locked solid and jammed. In this condition, turn the engine over 2 times so that the camshaft turns a full turn. Turn the engine by hand, or "click" it over using the starter. Once you're back up to TDC on the compression stroke, feel the pushrod and see if it is now "relaxed" again (see if you can twirl it between your fingers). If it is, you have hydraulic lifters. If the pushrod is locked solid and tight, you have mechanical lifters.
Hi Lars...

And you cant tell it from the Cam, where it says "Cam Style: Mechanical flat tappet"?
I will try this later today, and get back....

Best regards Søren
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 08:55 AM
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I dought its a solid without guide plates.
You better find someone who knows how to adjust the lifters or you will tear your engine up in a second.
after watching then you will know how to do it.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 09:35 AM
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Thats a nice looking ,black 72.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 09:48 AM
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It appears from the link to Summit your cam is designed for solid lifters with .026 lash.Who knows what kind of lifters were put in. Lars method will determine which lifters you have.
Question--Have you changed your mechanical fuel pump lately and used the bolt in the front of the block to hold the rod up?If so and you turned the bolt in with a wrench you could have bent the pump push rod.This will produce a click that is dificult to find.Its very easy to bend the rod.If you suspect this might be possible just take the 2 bolts out of pump and pull it out and let it drop down.Start the engine and see if the tick is gone.Just an Idea
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 10:02 AM
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Parts houses on this side of the pond can supply a stethascope, similar to what a doctor uses....it's got a long probe on it, with the typical plastic tube....I find it's super nice for listening to everything from injectors to valve to fuel pumps....just put the tip on the part in question....if you have the engine running, and don't mind the oil splash, you can go from valve to valve and put the tip on the rocker studs/bolt end.....find it in the heartbeat that way....

the engine on my truck has sounded like it has a rod bearing going....deep down internal knock for a LONG time now....it's not, somehow it's that damn mechanical pump so I let it clack it's *** off, I don't care.....I know it's not a rod/main on account of I listen all over that block skirt, or a valve by placing it on the valve covers in various spots, makes this stuff so easy, really....
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 02:22 PM
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From: Odder Jylland
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Originally Posted by ghoastrider1
Thats a nice looking ,black 72.
Thanks.... Dosent just look nice, drives well to

http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...t=P9090172.flv

Last edited by Wisp; Sep 10, 2007 at 03:51 AM.
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Old Sep 9, 2007 | 02:32 PM
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From: Odder Jylland
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Thanks for all the input... Waiting until winter with the valve adjustment. There havent been many days in Denmark with sunshin, but luckly today this was one of them, so dident want to miss a day where I could take the vette out.

I can see from Summit that it is designed for solid lifters, but tryed today if I could slip a feelergauge of 0.004" between the rocker and valve and I could not. So I´m thinking that I have hydralic lifters, otherwise there should be room for 0.026" or more if they are ticking.

I will take alook this winther. Now it has been ticking for 1 1/2 year, so a couple of days more wont do any change...

Best regards Søren
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