When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Starting the motor without the electical...question?
Got the motor in the frame, want to test fire it.
I have the starter hooked up, all the accessories, but no wiring.
What is the bare minimum electrical connections I need to run the motor. Here is what I am thinking, please tell me what you think.
I have a hot lead to the starter from the battery.
I have a lead from the starter to the coil.
I have a ground wired to the frame.
Now do in have a hot lead from the battery to the coil?
I realize the alternator won't charge the battery, but that is ok.
The last time I tried this the coil got really hot...any ideas why?[/QUOTE]
Power to the coil normally has a resistance wire inline dropping the voltage to the coil down to about 8 -9 volts. The wire running from the starter to the coil is only used to supply full voltage to the coil when engine cranking.
If you are using a wire direct from the battery to the coil then this is why your coil is getting hot. A simple fix would be to use a ballast resister between the battery and coil.
Did just what you're doing when I was at that stage of the resto. I rigged up a panel with the gauges, plus a toggle switch(on/off), panel light(to remind me the toggle is on), and a push button(starting).
Good thing I fired it up this way, because I had to pull the heads. Much easier without having to lean over the fender.
Let us know how it goes
I have the starter hooked up, all the accessories, but no wiring.
What is the bare minimum electrical connections I need to run the motor. Here is what I am thinking, please tell me what you think.
I have a hot lead to the starter from the battery.
I have a lead from the starter to the coil.
I have a ground wired to the frame.
Now do in have a hot lead from the battery to the coil?
I realize the alternator won't charge the battery, but that is ok.
Pick up an ignition switch so you won't have to pull the coil wire to kill the engine. If you need to break-in the cam, I would suggest hooking up the coolant system and set carburetor mechanical idle to around 1500 RPM, run for 15 min. also oil pressure gauge is a good idea! I usually pump up the engine so the lifter are primed full of oil. You can do this by removing the distributor and spinning the oil pump until the drill loads up. I converted an old points distributor to use in conjunction to a electric drill. Here me firing up a LS1 in my 68 frame. Notice my 5 gal bucket for a Radiator !!!
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by rainierfarm
ok look you need a hot wire from the +side of the batt to the - side of the coil
Absolutely not. The "-" side of the coil goes to the distributor - not to the battery. Battery "+" goes to the "+" side of the coil after running through a ballast resistor.
The starter is activated by putting a switched lead to the "S" terminal.
I had correct wiring from the diagram, but I totally missed the ballast resister. I'll get that straight!
Just for everyone's info...Lars is largely responsible for the progress of this entire restoration. He has provided info on every obstacle I have come to.