why????????
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
From: Rochester New York
Needed my car for a Saturday afternoon thing, and found a leaky front caliper in the morning.... A quick run to Advance Auto and a short while later I had a rebuilt caliper all installed and painted up for "I THINK" $45?
I was back on the road that afternoon, letting me get back to worrying about all the other things that are/will be wrong with my car. My brakes are super BTW, and although I could be trendy and spendy and buy drilled and slotted this and stainless that, I just make sure they are bled and fresh and it's more than plenty stopping power to scare passengers.
I was back on the road that afternoon, letting me get back to worrying about all the other things that are/will be wrong with my car. My brakes are super BTW, and although I could be trendy and spendy and buy drilled and slotted this and stainless that, I just make sure they are bled and fresh and it's more than plenty stopping power to scare passengers.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Visalia CA
points taken, i can get the stock rebuild kits for $20 for each caliper and $13 for each line. The place i called said they couldn't get rebuild kits for the rear calipers though. they should be same shouldn't they? they use the same pads.
one more question, whats the best way to compress the pistons back into the caliper? like i said, i've never done brakes on a four piston caliper before. I think this is part of my problem. thanks for all the help so far guys. i appreciate it alot.
one more question, whats the best way to compress the pistons back into the caliper? like i said, i've never done brakes on a four piston caliper before. I think this is part of my problem. thanks for all the help so far guys. i appreciate it alot.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: vt
No, the rear kits are not the same. The rear pistons are smaller than the pistons on the front calipers.
To compress the pistons back in, the easiest thing to do is to open the bleeder, and push them back in by hand. You'll lose some fluid, but it's easier than fighting the pressure in the system. But if you're rebuilding the calipers, you shouldn't have this issue since they'll be taken apart with no fluid in them, and you can just push the pistons in by hand. Some people like to remove the springs so the pistons don't have a tendency to push themselves out.
To compress the pistons back in, the easiest thing to do is to open the bleeder, and push them back in by hand. You'll lose some fluid, but it's easier than fighting the pressure in the system. But if you're rebuilding the calipers, you shouldn't have this issue since they'll be taken apart with no fluid in them, and you can just push the pistons in by hand. Some people like to remove the springs so the pistons don't have a tendency to push themselves out.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
No, the rear kits are not the same. The rear pistons are smaller than the pistons on the front calipers.
To compress the pistons back in, the easiest thing to do is to open the bleeder, and push them back in by hand. You'll lose some fluid, but it's easier than fighting the pressure in the system. But if you're rebuilding the calipers, you shouldn't have this issue since they'll be taken apart with no fluid in them, and you can just push the pistons in by hand. Some people like to remove the springs so the pistons don't have a tendency to push themselves out.
To compress the pistons back in, the easiest thing to do is to open the bleeder, and push them back in by hand. You'll lose some fluid, but it's easier than fighting the pressure in the system. But if you're rebuilding the calipers, you shouldn't have this issue since they'll be taken apart with no fluid in them, and you can just push the pistons in by hand. Some people like to remove the springs so the pistons don't have a tendency to push themselves out.
If rebuilding with O-rings then it's probably best to leave the springs out. If rebuilding with stock lip seals then leave the springs.
By the way, reading an article another supporting vendor posted, Duntov himself said the lip seals and springs were a better design for this style caliper when compared to the O-ring style.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Visalia CA
No, the rear kits are not the same. The rear pistons are smaller than the pistons on the front calipers.
To compress the pistons back in, the easiest thing to do is to open the bleeder, and push them back in by hand. You'll lose some fluid, but it's easier than fighting the pressure in the system. But if you're rebuilding the calipers, you shouldn't have this issue since they'll be taken apart with no fluid in them, and you can just push the pistons in by hand. Some people like to remove the springs so the pistons don't have a tendency to push themselves out.
To compress the pistons back in, the easiest thing to do is to open the bleeder, and push them back in by hand. You'll lose some fluid, but it's easier than fighting the pressure in the system. But if you're rebuilding the calipers, you shouldn't have this issue since they'll be taken apart with no fluid in them, and you can just push the pistons in by hand. Some people like to remove the springs so the pistons don't have a tendency to push themselves out.
oh well, there's a first time for everything. I think i'll start with the front tonight and see what i can get done. Then get the rear this weekend. I don't know when this system was flushed last so that might be a good idea since i'm doing lines and calipers. any recomendations on good brake fluid?
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
points taken, i can get the stock rebuild kits for $20 for each caliper and $13 for each line. The place i called said they couldn't get rebuild kits for the rear calipers though. they should be same shouldn't they? they use the same pads.
one more question, whats the best way to compress the pistons back into the caliper? like i said, i've never done brakes on a four piston caliper before. I think this is part of my problem. thanks for all the help so far guys. i appreciate it alot.
one more question, whats the best way to compress the pistons back into the caliper? like i said, i've never done brakes on a four piston caliper before. I think this is part of my problem. thanks for all the help so far guys. i appreciate it alot.
If rebuilding with O-rings then it's probably best to leave the springs out. If rebuilding with stock lip seals then leave the springs.
By the way, reading an article another supporting vendor posted, Duntov himself said the lip seals and springs were a better design for this style caliper when compared to the O-ring style.
By the way, reading an article another supporting vendor posted, Duntov himself said the lip seals and springs were a better design for this style caliper when compared to the O-ring style.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Visalia CA
[QUOTE=I'm Batman;1561978731]If you don't already have stainless sleeved calipers, those rebuild kits aren't going to do you much good, unless you're very lucky.[QUOTE]
Can you elaborate? I picked them up at lunch, i'm going to give it a try tonight. Why wouldn't they work?
Can you elaborate? I picked them up at lunch, i'm going to give it a try tonight. Why wouldn't they work?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
The stock calipers, when they don't have S/S sleeves, will become pitted. That is bad news when trying to seal in fluid and seal out air. If there are pits, you will probably suck air while driving and leak fluid when parked.
The S/S sleeves go in the bores, and make sure nothing rusts, corrodes, or pits.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Visalia CA
ohhh......that makes sense now. will it be fairly obvious if they are pitted? i might as well take a look first before i go any further and make any other decisions. i noticed there was a fair amount of rust on the rotors and calipers but the pad side of the rotors looked pretty good. hopefully i get lucky
Racer
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
From: Fredericksburg Va
I just bought the ~$500.00 kit from Summit. It included 4 calipers (SS SLEEVED), replacement lines, and pads. Even got new bolts. No core charge.....
Don't leave the springs out. The springs are meant to make the pads float on the rotor. Corvette calipers do not float like most normal cars, the pads do the floating. Leave the rotors alone unless they are warped or gouged... If your rotors are riveted leave them as well as long as they are not trashed. That way you do not have to worry about runout and alignment....
I use the Mityvac Vacum bleeder, it works really well, drained all the fluid out, bled the brakes once and everything is wonderful.
My opinion is when you try to rebuild them your opening a can of worms. The calipers I removed were in sad condition, way beyond what I would call a parts rebuild. Good Luck!!!!
Rd
Don't leave the springs out. The springs are meant to make the pads float on the rotor. Corvette calipers do not float like most normal cars, the pads do the floating. Leave the rotors alone unless they are warped or gouged... If your rotors are riveted leave them as well as long as they are not trashed. That way you do not have to worry about runout and alignment....
I use the Mityvac Vacum bleeder, it works really well, drained all the fluid out, bled the brakes once and everything is wonderful.
My opinion is when you try to rebuild them your opening a can of worms. The calipers I removed were in sad condition, way beyond what I would call a parts rebuild. Good Luck!!!!
Rd
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Visalia CA
good news! they are sleeved! they must have been replaced at some point which is fine with me. I grabbed some brake cleaner and caliper paint, got some new grade 8 bolts at osh, speed bleeders, a couple kits, and new brake lines for the front. I'm going to do the fronts and see how they turn out. I was rather suprised at how simple the calipers are when taken apart. makes me feel a lot better.
if it goes bad i'll probably go with the summit kit you mentioned as it's one i was looking at but i think i can pull it off. we'll see. thanks again.
oh yeah, no one recommended any brake fluids. i always hear about good results with some of the different "racing" fluids. any reason not to use those? should i just use stp or something? i'd like to flush the whole system out after i get all four wheels done.
if it goes bad i'll probably go with the summit kit you mentioned as it's one i was looking at but i think i can pull it off. we'll see. thanks again.
oh yeah, no one recommended any brake fluids. i always hear about good results with some of the different "racing" fluids. any reason not to use those? should i just use stp or something? i'd like to flush the whole system out after i get all four wheels done.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,412
Likes: 3
Ummm, yeah and while you're there you should do the rotors too, and some new bearings, and spindles. Oh how about some 18" wheels and while you're in there, high performance suspension with poly bushings...
OR! You could just rebuild your damn caliper(s) with a cheap rebuild kit.
If you do decide to rebuild yours, you'll need lots of brake cleaner, a vice and a piece of wood to tap the new seals in place. Make sure that the metal lip is aligned with the hole before you tap it in. For brake fluid, I use dot 4 mercedes fluid. Much thinner than the dot 3 stuff, works great. Not sure if it's just in my head, but it feels like it made a difference in braking.
OR! You could just rebuild your damn caliper(s) with a cheap rebuild kit.
If you do decide to rebuild yours, you'll need lots of brake cleaner, a vice and a piece of wood to tap the new seals in place. Make sure that the metal lip is aligned with the hole before you tap it in. For brake fluid, I use dot 4 mercedes fluid. Much thinner than the dot 3 stuff, works great. Not sure if it's just in my head, but it feels like it made a difference in braking.
Last edited by enkeivette; Sep 20, 2007 at 12:53 AM.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 412
Likes: 1
From: St. John's Newfoundland
Mine started with a bad body mount. If you only want to do the brakes now, don't look at any other part of the car while it's on the stands, 
stay focused on the brakes, dare ya
Clyde