why????????
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Visalia CA
why????????
so i posted a thread in the general section about getting those locking lug nuts on without the key. i got them off! yeah! all is well......not! I proceeded to change out the first set of pads and i hear this little sound of liquid under pressure squeezing out of a little hole. next thing i know it's dripping brake fluid.....I was hoping i could get away with just a pad change since it only has 50,000 miles on it but i guess i was wrong. So....what should i do now? On one hand I want to stay economical because I'm saving for a new driveway. On the other hand, if i'm going to replace one caliper i might as well do all four and get good ones. If i'm going to bleed the system i might as well flush and install those fancy fangled steel lines and if i'm doing that i might as well upgrade the rotors.......
I'm guessing vb&p is the best place to get this stuff but i could be wrong. steer me in the right direction guys, thanks.
I'm guessing vb&p is the best place to get this stuff but i could be wrong. steer me in the right direction guys, thanks.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Visalia CA
you guys are really encouraging 
i probably should go as cheap as can be for now, i think i'll call the local parts house and see what rebuilt calipers cost. on the other hand.....anybody know anything about these
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
i probably should go as cheap as can be for now, i think i'll call the local parts house and see what rebuilt calipers cost. on the other hand.....anybody know anything about these
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Agree with 68 NJConv 454. It's a slippery slope you're on. Watch your footing or you'll be waist deep in a frame-off by new years. 
But, don't skimp. You'll end up spending more in the long run.
But, don't skimp. You'll end up spending more in the long run.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Autozone has S/S sleeved rebuilt calipers with a lifetime warranty for $69.99 each. If it fails in a year or so just replace it for a new one free of charge.
Check your rubber lines too, they go bad on the inside.
Check your rubber lines too, they go bad on the inside.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 44
From: Macon, GA
It's best to do them at least in pairs, but I've done a single caliper in the past.
I have used autozone calipers from AutoZone for the vette in the past with good success. You'll get a remanufactured GM core.
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BTW - How did you end up getting the locking nuts off?
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: vt
getting your rotors turned will require that you drill out the rivets in order to remove the rotors (assuming that you still have the stock rotors)
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Qtown PA
I bought my rear calipers from Advance Auto and I think they were right around $65 each plus core. I'm getting the rubber lines, pads, and rotors from Rock Auto. They there's a Monroe pad set that like $25 with a $20 right now too. I had to replace one of the rear hardlines too as the fitting refused to be removed from the caliper. I ordered that from Eckler's last week and it should arrive tomorrow.
Also my car had the original rotors with 137k + miles on them, and it's a ton of fun getting them off after that much time. Drilling rivets, penetrating oil, torch, BFH and about 2 hours each.
Also my car had the original rotors with 137k + miles on them, and it's a ton of fun getting them off after that much time. Drilling rivets, penetrating oil, torch, BFH and about 2 hours each.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 854
Likes: 0
From: Foxfield, Co
did you retain the caliper pistons with clips before removing them? The pistons have springs behind them that will push them out when you remove the caliper if not retained, you may have just pushed a piston out untill it leaked.
Greg
Greg
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Visalia CA
i was wondering about that as it wasn't leaking before i took the caliper off. i was wondering if it was something i did. i've never messed with a four piston caliper before and i noticed as i started running the pistons down on one side with my clamp the other side was coming up. are there special tools i need for these calipers? maybe i can get away with just rebuilding the front if i do the rest right. (i tend to learn as i go, at times it can get rather expensive......)
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: vt
I would say you should probably just rebuild them all anyway. It's not difficult to do (nor expensive), and it's probably worth replacing the old seals so you don't have a problem down the road.
You shouldn't need any special tools, but the little retaining clips can be useful for getting the pads back in, as they are a bear to get in without the clips.
You shouldn't need any special tools, but the little retaining clips can be useful for getting the pads back in, as they are a bear to get in without the clips.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
He means clips you buy to hold the pistons back inside the caliper while you slide the pads in and the whole assembly over the rotor. This keeps the pads from catching on the rotors as you install the caliper. Once in, just pull the clips out.
I just use the thick end of a wooden hammer handle to keep the pads separate while I slide the caliper on.