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If you don't remove anything from the rear circuit, you will only need to bleed the fronts. BUT, you might as well bleed the rears using fresh fluid in the MC.
If you don't remove anything from the rear circuit, you will only need to bleed the fronts. BUT, you might as well bleed the rears using fresh fluid in the MC.
just an FYI.... My car has been pulling to the left real bad for awhile now. I bought a pressure bleeder and have to say that is the only way to go. Not only is it super fast but showed me in minutes that my front hoses were bad. After replacing them it took about 10 minutes to bleed all 4. Just a thought. $69.00 for the pressure bleeder.
just an FYI.... My car has been pulling to the left real bad for awhile now. I bought a pressure bleeder and have to say that is the only way to go. Not only is it super fast but showed me in minutes that my front hoses were bad. After replacing them it took about 10 minutes to bleed all 4. Just a thought. $69.00 for the pressure bleeder.
I sure have to agree with the pressure bleeder. Saved me from getting a divorce or worse yet locked up for murder trying to bleed brakes with my wife operating the pedal..............Don't go down that road, trust me!!
C3 uses adapter 1105. No need to have someone pumping the brakes. In my opinion it is the only way to go. I'm no brake guy but this sure won my vote on "brake bleeding 101".
The hardest part was getting it to seat properly (not leak) when mounted to the master cylinder. Mine uses 2 chains that wrap around the cyclinder then tighten with J hooks. Once tightened properly it was a piece of cake. You won't regret buying it.
C3 uses adapter 1105. No need to have someone pumping the brakes. In my opinion it is the only way to go. I'm no brake guy but this sure won my vote on "brake bleeding 101".
I bled the brakes this past week-end and it was light years better than the pump the peddle method. But one warning, make sure the adaptor has a good, tight seal on the master cylinder. Otherwise, you'll have brake fluid spewing out all over the place! You can guess how I know this!
This experience did inspire me to plan on trying something to make this easier and get rid of what I think are the Mickey Mouse "J" hooks for securing the adaptor. I'm going to try and add the connection fitting to the Master Cylinder cap of my old MC. This should give me factory tight seal and make things a whole lot easier. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has thought of this. But, has anyone actually build a pup like this?
Perfect timing as I just purchased a pressure bleeder from Motive. I will be removing my wheels as I bleed the brakes as I want to inspect the calipers but, is it possible to leave the tires on as well? One book I have shows the bleeder screw on the front but, I have also seen them on the side. Is there more than one bleeder screw?
Forget all those expensive bleeding systems - get a few speed bleeders and be done with it. It takes about 1 minute per wheel to bleed them - singlehandedly.
The 1105c adapter is a POS and leaks all over the place. Nothing like nice caustic brake fluid all over the rag joint and rubber steering componants. What Motive used to sell, before the plastic POS, was a steel plate with hardish rubber gasket, like the one in the 1105, but harder, glued to it. I borrowed a friend of mines and I was able to bleed at 20 psi with no leakage the FIRST time. Ditch the 1105 and complain to Motive. Make your own adapter or your going swimming. I tried 2 brand new 1105s before I knew better.
Z-man, I heard a rumor that the spring loader pressure bleeder valves get stuck after 1st use. Fact or Fiction? Plus don't you have to keep adding break fluid to the MS and pump the breaks to keep pressure built up? As for the pressure bleeder I agree that cap that mounts to the MS could be a better design. I like the thought of using the original MS cover (modified).
Last edited by 7t6vette; Sep 27, 2007 at 08:42 AM.
Reason: update
Z-man, I heard a rumor that the spring loader pressure bleeder valves get stuck after 1st use. Fact or Fiction? Plus don't you have to keep adding break fluid to the MS and pump the breaks to keep pressure built up? As for the pressure bleeder I agree that cap that mounts to the MS could be a better design. I like the thought of using the original MS cover (modified).
Never heard of it. Mine are fine after 10 years. If you just keep pumping the brakes, and pump enough fluid out of the system to lower the MC, then of course you'd have to add fluid to the MC. During the bleeding process using speed bleeders there isn't any pressure in the system (except for the tiny amount the spring would exert). There isn't any pressure during normal bleeding either. When no air comes out of the caliper, you tighten the bleeder and move on to the next wheel. It literally takes less than a minute or so and you can do it without someone else pumping the brakes for you.
All these other systems just seem like such a waste of time and energy hooking them up, etc., when there is such a simple solution.
If you're so inclined, you can construct a homemade pressure bleeder from a garden sprayer and a junkyard donor MC cap. I know several guys have done this with success.
Personally I've had good luck with the hose-in-jar method. You just get a length of clear tubing small enough to make a seal with the bleeder nipple, stick the open end into a jar of clean brake fluid, and then pump away until you don't see any bubbles/air in the tube. It works because on the backstroke, you'll suck in fluid from the tube instead of air.