Hi,
Car was running fine. Battery died from not using car. Recharged battery and re-installed. Car cranks like crazy, but won't start. What are the most obvious things that I should look at? Gas is about 1/2 tank and oil level is good.
Thank you,
Tom

 

Check the fuse near the battery. Check the fuel pump fuse and the injector fuses. Check the wires going into the top of the distributor on the driverside for corrosion.

Listen for the obvious. Open the hood take the air cleaner off. Turn the key to on. do you hear the fuel pump (from behind you) kick in for 2 seconds? At the same time do you hear the injectors kick in and see a burst of fuel from them?

While cranking are the injectors spraying? If so do you have spark?

Jim

 

Thank you for the reply. Are the injector fuses and fuel pump fuse located on the main fuse panel or elsewhere? I checked the fuse in the battery compartment, it was good.
Thanks again,
Tom

 

This happened to mine Friday and stranded me in a parking lot...

The ignition switch finally died. Engine turns, but won't catch. Check if you are getting juice to the coil when the key is on. (if it's all set up the same way as a '68, that is... :-p )

 

Main panel for fuses.

Jim

 

Check fuses first!
You can also listen quietly when you turn the key to ON - you will hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds in the gas tank. If you don't hear it - check the fuse. If the fuse is good then could be the fuel pump relay which is behind the ECM which is behind the battery. Take the air cleaner off and see if you are getting fuel the the throttle bodies.
That fuse in the battery compartment could still be a problem, actually that junction box could be corroded.
All the above has happen to my 82....
If you don't have a factory service manual and assembly manual, get them! - You just cannot figure things out without 'em!
Good Luck!

 

1/2 Tank you say? Before you go too far make sure you "actually" have fuel in the tank.The 82s have a record of the fuel sender going bad and sticking at 1/2 tank giving the impression there is fuel in the tank.

 

This may sound strange, but try locking and unlocking your driver's side door with the key. If your car was locked with the power locks before the battery died and you unlocked it by reaching in and unlocking manually, the anti theft system may have your ignition locked out. Happened to me not too long ago. Opening the door with the key will re-set the system.

 

I agree with both of the guys above. First make sure you really have a 1/2 tank my gauge sticks all the time. then check for fuel pump and TB pulse at key on! GOOD LUCK if that don't work come on back YA HEAR!!!

 

Hi,
Thank you for your replys. By checking the things that were mentioned, I'm quite sure the fuel pump failed. I'm buying an 85 fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator rebuild kit and I should be all set.
Thanks again,
Tom

 

I have owned my 82 since new. Add a gallon of gas to the tank and try again. 82s can have an issue with the sending unit and bladder, which can cause you to think there is gas in the tank. Next I would remove the control module in the distributor and take it along with the coil to an AutoZone store to test them.
Let us know how things turn out.
Good Luck
Steve

 

Tom,
Your '82 is the famous Crossfire model and it has two throttle body fuel injectors. These T.B.I.'s run on a fuel pressure of about 10-12 p.s.i. and the 1985 models run T.P.I. (Tuned Port Injection) which uses about 50 p.s.i. As the pressure is dictated by the pump, you might have trouble trying to feed a T.B.I. with 50 p.s.i. when all it needs is about a fifth of that.

Be careful and seek expert advice before going any further.

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn

 

AussieJohn...just to let you know. The 82/84 CF motors don't run worth a damn at the settings GM suggests which is 9-13psi per manual. 13psi is marginal at best and a blip of the throttle usually puts you back into the 12 and under area and poor performance. The truth is that the motor will run just fine at 14psi minimum. The 82/84 fuel pumps are usually not good enough to support that pressure so the most common upgrade for a crossfire motor is to go to the 85 vette pump which is a direct replacement and then regulate the pressure on the rear throttle body to 14psi. A FP gauge is a must on a CF motor to make this change. Another item about FP on a CF motor is to look at the backside of the rear TB and see where the "tab" is located in the tower, if its on the bottom, there is very low pressure and you want to tab to be more towards the top even with the stock pump installed, again...a FP gauge is required to check the pressure.

One more item on a CF is that until you remove the anti-adjust plate that is inside the rear TB regulator, you will not be able to adjust the FP anyway. It is a very simple thing to do as well and once the regulator is disassembled, the plate will fall out. Just put it back together and then you have a fully adjustable FP regulator.

The FPR on a crossfire is fine up to about 30psi, but at 35psi you will rupture the bladder on the compensator side...ask me how I know this. Anyway, I'm running a fairly modified 383 in my 82 with the CF setup and FP of 20psi with 80lbph injectors and it runs just fine. The "famous crossfires" run fine if you know how to work on them and make the right mods...even on the stock motors. Anyone that says they are junk doesn't know what they are talking about, ask the C5 guys that I beat about junk CROSSFIRES...LOL If anyone needs more info on the 82/84 CF motors, send me mail.

 

Aussie,

Everyone has gone to the 85 pump. They don't pump psi. Its volume. The psi is determined by the regulator spring in the rear TBI. The spring is set to maintain somewhere between 9-13 psi. It will step down what is delivered by the 85 pump. When the 82 pump weakens there is not enough volume for the spring to maintain 9-13 psi. The sping is not capable of stepping up the psi just down. this causes a hesitation or bad idle.

Lots of info here http://www.crossfire.homeip.net/

 

Hi,
Thank you for your replys,
I'm a bit nervous about using the 85 pump, but it is praised as one of the best things that you can do to a crossfire to improve driveability.
I did add over two gallons of gas to the tank, but still it did not start. I also checked the distrubutor for spark and that is working. When I turn on the ignition, I can hear the fuel pump relay pull in for the two second prime cycle, but the pump is completely silent.
Regards,
Tom

 

I have heard of this mod many times before and I think I'm do. when my tank gets low it bogs and surges at WOT. My question is do you have to pull the rear tbi off for the adjustment (buy gasket for tbi to manifold) or will the fuel pressure regulator keep the pressure at a safe psi for a trial run???

 

Tom...Don't worry about doing the FP mod, it's a very common thing to do on a CF, just do it and you'll be glad you did. BTW: the sender/FP in all one unit on both the 82 and 84 and comes out the top of the tank. You do not have to drop the tank to replace it even though it doesn't look like it's going to fit coming out that little hole. You must turn it while pulling it out.

Bill...You don't have to remove the rear TB completely to remove the anti-adjust plate. You must remove the the upper tower plate that secures the injector in place. (Do not remove the lower tower to TB base). Remove the 5 screws that hold it down and turn it over. The regulator in attached to the upper tower. (NOTE...take a look at the bottom of the regulator when its out and see if the plate is even there, someone may have already removed it).

Remove the 4 screws that hold the regulator to the upper tower. (caution...there is a considerable amount of pressure from the FPR spring when the 4 screws are removed) before removing the 4 screws, clamp the FPR in place and then remove the screws or hold it really tight in your hand. It will wobble a bit because on top of the bladder is a pivot seal piece that will want to rotate on you when you reassemble things.

After removing the FPR "can" take the spring out and adjuster and then remove the plate at the bottom...reassemble FPR and now it's adjustable via the bottom of the FPR. (NOTE...adjust the "tab" on the side which is part of the adjuster assembly to about 1/2 to 3/4 the way up the slot before reassembly. You will need a FP gauge to make the final adjustment. A new upper tower injector gasket is suggested and the smaller gasket because it may leak after reassembly. You can buy the kit from Autozone which is a complete TB rebuild for both TBs for around $45, here's the Sorensen - PN: 96-629

Adjust the FP for 14psi and your good to go and you'll notice a big difference is idle quality, no more stumbling and have lots of power on high end above 4,000 rpm. Good luck guys and send me mail if needed, hope this helps.

 

Thanks Bucaneer, That info will help alot and to be on the safe side, I will go and pick up that rebuild kit. There's no rocket science in that rebuild kit is there? ( anything I should look out for?)

 

Bill, the kit is pretty much straight forward. The injector O-rings can be a PITA to get them to seat right sometimes and you'll get one extra large gasket that you won't use on your CF, it will be obvious though.

Use some oil on the O-rings before you install them, it will help to seat them. Ensure that you follow the diagram that comes with the kit. There is a steel ring and two O-rings (large and small) that goes in the injector pod, ensure you get them in correctly or it will leak.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

 

I sent you a PM